To summarize our 2014 adventure, here are a few Staat Stats:
Miles travelled: 14,431
Days on the road: 84
U.S. States visited: 10
Canada Provinces and Territories: 2 Provinces and 2 Territories
Lowest recorded temperature inside the camper: 29 degrees (the result of broken furnace... burrrrrrrr!)
Greatest snowfall: 12 inches (Banff)
Most expensive gasoline: $6.55 per gallon
Thursday, October 30, 2014
Thursday, September 25, 2014
Home, Sweet Home
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| Sunset at Caprock Canyon |
We pulled into Caprock Canyon State Park early in the evening and were delighted to set up our last night's camp in our favorite spot... the overflow camping area. This small meadow rests on a mesa and is bathed in a fresh breeze every evening.
After nearly ten hours of driving, we were all glad to be able to stretch and enjoy the beauty of a Texas sunset. Roxanne took advantage of the thick grass and rolled to her heart's content.
To our surprise, we saw a female coyote walking up the road not more than 20 feet from our camper. She was hunting and evidently didn't even notice us. She fled as soon as I took this photo...
As dusk settled, two deer grazed nearby. We were struck with the beauty God offered us during these last moments of this year's travels.
We relished the cool evening, knowing well that we would break camp early to arrive home before sunset tomorrow. Home... it is such a sweet word, isn't it?
Tuesday, September 23, 2014
A Close Encounter in Los Alamos
We decided to take a different route home from Colorado this trip. We took Hwys 550 to 126 to 502. The route was very scenic and gave us a fresh look at this rugged and beautiful part of the country.
We camped at the Jemez Falls campground. With Los Alamos only 12 miles away, we decided to make a quick run into town. Those 12 miles became longer and longer as we snaked down the mountain. We followed the GPS directions, taking the shortest route by turning from Hwy 4 onto Hwy 501.
Before we knew it, we found ourselves at a government security checkpoint! A bit shaken, I rolled down the window. A rather intimidating guard asked where we were going. I told him that we just wanted a few groceries, and that I had obviously taken the wrong road. Could I just turn around?
Obviously, I was not the first to have made the mistake. The guard was so kind, even trying to hide his smile at my frightened look. He followed regulations, which required seeing our identifications, and informing us that we were on government property. Who knew? He also gave us explicit directions to the grocery store and told us that we were not allowed to take photos while in the compound.
We traveled through several miles of fenced properties with LOTS of security around. Los Alamos itself was almost too crisp and clean, adding to the spooky feeling we had. Needless to say, we took the long way along Hwy 4 back to camp... and learned a valuable lesson... don't take Hwy 501 into Los Alamos!
The good news is that we discovered some breathtaking scenery, a wonderful campground, and the Valles Caldera National Preserve along Hwy 4. The Preserve is grazed by New Mexico's largest elk herd, numbering around 8,000. Although we were too early for the elk migration, it is definitely an area to return to... just not through Los Alamos!
We camped at the Jemez Falls campground. With Los Alamos only 12 miles away, we decided to make a quick run into town. Those 12 miles became longer and longer as we snaked down the mountain. We followed the GPS directions, taking the shortest route by turning from Hwy 4 onto Hwy 501.
Before we knew it, we found ourselves at a government security checkpoint! A bit shaken, I rolled down the window. A rather intimidating guard asked where we were going. I told him that we just wanted a few groceries, and that I had obviously taken the wrong road. Could I just turn around?
Obviously, I was not the first to have made the mistake. The guard was so kind, even trying to hide his smile at my frightened look. He followed regulations, which required seeing our identifications, and informing us that we were on government property. Who knew? He also gave us explicit directions to the grocery store and told us that we were not allowed to take photos while in the compound.
We traveled through several miles of fenced properties with LOTS of security around. Los Alamos itself was almost too crisp and clean, adding to the spooky feeling we had. Needless to say, we took the long way along Hwy 4 back to camp... and learned a valuable lesson... don't take Hwy 501 into Los Alamos!
The good news is that we discovered some breathtaking scenery, a wonderful campground, and the Valles Caldera National Preserve along Hwy 4. The Preserve is grazed by New Mexico's largest elk herd, numbering around 8,000. Although we were too early for the elk migration, it is definitely an area to return to... just not through Los Alamos!
Storm Clouds Brewing
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| Million Dollar Highway near Ouray, Colorado |
The past few years we have ended our annual adventure by traveling the Million Dollar Highway (Route 550) between Ridgeway and Durango, Colorado. David and I have been hiking, backpacking, and traveling this area for nearly forty years, and it never fails to bring us joy. This time of year is exceptionally beautiful with all of the fall colors.
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| Dallas Divide, Ridgeway, Colorado |
By the time we reached higher elevations near Ouray, the landscape was bathed in breathtaking fall colors.
We decided to stop at Mineral Creek Campground near Silverton, a favorite camping spot. As we rounded one of the corners along the gravel road to the campground, I began to shout, "Moose, moose!!!" David tromped on the brakes, looking bewildered as he tried to locate what I was pointing at... and he found him... a moose trotting right up the very road we were traveling. This was a shocking experience for both of us. In all of our years of visiting this end of Colorado, we have NEVER seen a moose until today.
He was young, perhaps only two years, scrawny and in velvet. But a moose he be... I managed to catch this shot of him... How come I always seem to get the derriere?
We arrived at the campground with storm clouds appearing to dissipate. The area was covered in tiny pink flags. When we registered, an information sign indicated that the pink flags marked flooded areas from the 2009 flood. Of course, we had already set camp in one of those areas, not more than 15 feet from the creek. No worries... right???
We enjoyed a lovely evening, reminiscing the trip. By bedtime, storm clouds were gathering in earnest. By midnight, the skies opened up and, oh my gosh, did it rain! The wind gusted, buffeting the camper walls. Rain pounded the aluminum roof. By two, we had flashlights pointed towards the creek as the roar from the rushing water increased. By break of dawn, we were dressed and ready to roll, fearing that the road would once again be awash from a flash flood. We discovered that our campsite was on a knoll and now had rather large rivulets of water running on either side. As we drove back to 550, we noticed that the creek was level with the road in several places. We were more than a bit thankful that while Mineral Creek ran wild, it was still within its banks.
We detoured through Silverton for breakfast at one of our favorite stops, the Brown Bear Cafe. As we savored a hot cup of coffee, we realized that this year's trip had been quite the adventure. We had traveled through fires, days of continuous rain, a freak snowstorm, desert heat, sheep, and now a flood! Wow!
As we left Silverton, we pulled off on a high spot so that I could take one last photo... after the storm...
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| Silverton, Colorado |
Sunday, September 21, 2014
Kate Finishes the Pacific Crest Trail!!!
For those of you who followed last year's trip, you'll remember Kate, our niece who was hiking the 2,650-mile Pacific Crest Trail (see Kate and the Pacific Crest Trail). She was hiking the trail to bring awareness to the need to get young people connected to nature. You'll also remember her heartbreak when a freak early winter storm forced her off the trail, less than 400 miles from her goal (see Drama and Heroism on the PCT).
This summer on July 20th, Kate began her quest again. She started hiking at the point where she left the PCT during the blizzard. On August 13th of this year, Kate made her goal. She completed her journey to become one of the few people on the planet to accomplish such an amazing test of endurance.
Of course, we had to stop to congratulate her! Kate raised over $5,700, split between two organizations that help children to connect with nature.... Canyonland Field Institute and City Kids Wilderness Project.
During our visit, Kate showed us her outdoor "office," as lead naturalist at Canyonland Field Institute. We spent time catching up and enjoying time together. It was so great to see her!
With heavy clouds surrounding the mountains, today we leave for the Million Dollar Highway in Colorado... our last stop before the big push for home.
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| Kate at the Canadian border after hiking the entire 2,650-mile Pacific Crest Trail |
Of course, we had to stop to congratulate her! Kate raised over $5,700, split between two organizations that help children to connect with nature.... Canyonland Field Institute and City Kids Wilderness Project.
During our visit, Kate showed us her outdoor "office," as lead naturalist at Canyonland Field Institute. We spent time catching up and enjoying time together. It was so great to see her!
With heavy clouds surrounding the mountains, today we leave for the Million Dollar Highway in Colorado... our last stop before the big push for home.
Friday, September 19, 2014
Baa, Baa Black Sheep
With a promised stop to visit our Pacific Crest Trail-hiking niece Kate the upcoming weekend, David scoured the map for campgrounds with high elevations between the Davis Mountains and Moab. It looked like the Manti-La Sal National Forest would be a good bet. We stopped at the ranger station in Ephraim for more information. The kind ranger offered us a map and wonderful opportunity to take Skyline Drive, a rugged, mountainous four-wheel drive trail. She also assured us that the campground was above 9,000 feet in altitude and temperatures would certainly be cool at those elevations.
The road up to the Skyline Pass was about 30 miles of rough, rocky road, but certainly passable. When we reached the summit, the view of the Ferron reservoir valley was absolutely breathtaking.
Past the summit, we had a short series of extremely rocky and narrow switchbacks. To say the least, it was a white-knuckle ride. With no room to pass, thank God we didn't meet any other vehicles except two motorcyclists!
As we entered the valley, we were surprised by the number of sheep grazing along the roadside. They appeared not to have any shepherds or sheep dogs with them, so we assumed the owners had a permit to graze the sheep on government land.
We settled into our campsite near the reservoir and took Roxanne for a swim. She was so happy to be wet and in cooler temperatures!
By late afternoon, we noticed that the sheep seemed to be grazing closer and closer to us. They had made their way from the road across the valley to the small peninsula overlooking the reservoir.
Soon the entire flock was grazing just over the hill from our campground.
A bit concerned that we might have approximately 500 sheep grazing through our camp within the next few minutes, I called to Roxanne, wondering what might happen if the sheep saw her. What happened next surprised us all!
Rox strolled over the hill to check things out... and in her normal Golden way, she just stood, sniffed, and observed. The sheep, however, must have been quite familiar with dogs... most likely herding dogs. They took one look at Rox and skiddadled as fast and far away from her as they could. David and I couldn't help but laugh as Roxanne walked back, looking so proud.
Thankfully, the sheep chose to detour a wide path around our campsite. We were doubly grateful because many of them had obviously been recently wormed. Those who had been had diarrhea. Needless to say, the entire area was ripe with fresh sheep dung.
Because of Roxanne, however, the sheep parted to the left and right of our site, giving us plenty of space. By evening, they were grazing peacefully along the hillside on the opposite side of us.
We spent two beautiful days at Ferron Reservoir. The second day we did some much-needed readjusting before our big push towards home. We pulled everything out of the truck, shook off the dirt, and repacked it.
Ferron was a much needed respite for us all. The fall colors were bright, the evenings chilly enough for sweatshirts, and with sheep running every time they saw her, Roxanne had her mojo back. What a wonderful time!
Now on to Moab!
The road up to the Skyline Pass was about 30 miles of rough, rocky road, but certainly passable. When we reached the summit, the view of the Ferron reservoir valley was absolutely breathtaking.
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| Ferron Reservoir from Skyline Summit |
As we entered the valley, we were surprised by the number of sheep grazing along the roadside. They appeared not to have any shepherds or sheep dogs with them, so we assumed the owners had a permit to graze the sheep on government land.
We settled into our campsite near the reservoir and took Roxanne for a swim. She was so happy to be wet and in cooler temperatures!
By late afternoon, we noticed that the sheep seemed to be grazing closer and closer to us. They had made their way from the road across the valley to the small peninsula overlooking the reservoir.
Soon the entire flock was grazing just over the hill from our campground.
A bit concerned that we might have approximately 500 sheep grazing through our camp within the next few minutes, I called to Roxanne, wondering what might happen if the sheep saw her. What happened next surprised us all!
Rox strolled over the hill to check things out... and in her normal Golden way, she just stood, sniffed, and observed. The sheep, however, must have been quite familiar with dogs... most likely herding dogs. They took one look at Rox and skiddadled as fast and far away from her as they could. David and I couldn't help but laugh as Roxanne walked back, looking so proud.
Thankfully, the sheep chose to detour a wide path around our campsite. We were doubly grateful because many of them had obviously been recently wormed. Those who had been had diarrhea. Needless to say, the entire area was ripe with fresh sheep dung.
Because of Roxanne, however, the sheep parted to the left and right of our site, giving us plenty of space. By evening, they were grazing peacefully along the hillside on the opposite side of us.
We spent two beautiful days at Ferron Reservoir. The second day we did some much-needed readjusting before our big push towards home. We pulled everything out of the truck, shook off the dirt, and repacked it.
Ferron was a much needed respite for us all. The fall colors were bright, the evenings chilly enough for sweatshirts, and with sheep running every time they saw her, Roxanne had her mojo back. What a wonderful time!
Now on to Moab!
Wednesday, September 17, 2014
Hot and Wild
My trigger finger is itching... and wild horses await! Happily, we arrived in the Davis Mountains, ready to locate my brumbies. This year we knew what we were in for, and we were set... plenty of water, propane tanks full for the chilly nights, reprovisioned with all necessities, and the camera batteries all charged... we were ready to stay a full week, if needed.
When we arrived, we set up camp at our usual spot and searched the horizon for the horses. David finally spied them far off in the distance. As we watched through the evening, the herd appeared to move further away rather than closer. We knew that they would probably need water within three days, so we kept close eye on the watering hole.
We were surprised at the temperatures. It was well into the 90s when we arrived. And while we were expecting temperatures to drop well into the 50s that night, they barely made the 60s. Thankfully, a beautiful breeze kept us cool.
By morning, the herd had certainly moved, but not in the right direction. We drove up several four-wheel drive trails, trying to get closer to them. We were able to get within a mile or so, but the sun was already bearing down. By mid-morning, it was well into the 80s... much too hot to leave Roxanne in the truck, and we knew that she certainly couldn't make the mile or more hike to get close to the herd.
With hopes that the herd would move towards the road by afternoon, we decided to spend the day by taking a drive up the Pony Express Trail. One of the road signs indicated a wildlife refuge about 50 miles from us, so we decided to take a drive to see what it was all about. Along the way, we discovered a small, previously unknown band of wild horses at a watering hole. Three other vehicles were stopped, all photographers. It appeared that they were part of a photography workshop.
We all kept our distance from each other while we photographed members of the small band. This group of brumbies were not as dynamic as the larger herd. In fact, these horses seemed mostly interested in dust and mud baths to help with the rising temperatures.
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After a half hour or more, we decided to continue our drive to the wildlife refuge. To our amazement, we found Fish Springs Wildlife Refuge right in the middle of the Utah desert. With salt flats on one side and mountains on the other, nestled in between was a water oasis. Spring fed, this area is a migrating waterfowl paradise.
By the time we returned to camp, it was nearly 100 degrees. With the wild horses still miles from the nearest road, I was worried. That evening, the wind died down, and it was still and muggy. We had to sleep with with fans on just to keep cool. Poor Roxanne panted softly nearly all night. When we awoke the next morning, the temperature was in the low 70s and rising fast. Thankfully, we had cell service. A quick check of the weather forecast indicated that temperatures would remain in the 90s for the rest of the week.
I knew we had but one choice... we could hardly spend days in the truck, running the air conditioner, waiting for the herd to come closer. I was heartsick, knowing that we had to find higher elevations and cooler temperatures for Roxanne. Who would have thought that less than a week after sub-freezing temperatures in Banff that we would now be heading for higher ground because it was too hot, particularly when it had been so cool during last year's visit?
With the wild horse herd still miles off any road, we broke camp, turned east, and headed to higher ground.
When we arrived, we set up camp at our usual spot and searched the horizon for the horses. David finally spied them far off in the distance. As we watched through the evening, the herd appeared to move further away rather than closer. We knew that they would probably need water within three days, so we kept close eye on the watering hole.
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| Searching for Brumbies |
By morning, the herd had certainly moved, but not in the right direction. We drove up several four-wheel drive trails, trying to get closer to them. We were able to get within a mile or so, but the sun was already bearing down. By mid-morning, it was well into the 80s... much too hot to leave Roxanne in the truck, and we knew that she certainly couldn't make the mile or more hike to get close to the herd.
With hopes that the herd would move towards the road by afternoon, we decided to spend the day by taking a drive up the Pony Express Trail. One of the road signs indicated a wildlife refuge about 50 miles from us, so we decided to take a drive to see what it was all about. Along the way, we discovered a small, previously unknown band of wild horses at a watering hole. Three other vehicles were stopped, all photographers. It appeared that they were part of a photography workshop.
We all kept our distance from each other while we photographed members of the small band. This group of brumbies were not as dynamic as the larger herd. In fact, these horses seemed mostly interested in dust and mud baths to help with the rising temperatures.
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After a half hour or more, we decided to continue our drive to the wildlife refuge. To our amazement, we found Fish Springs Wildlife Refuge right in the middle of the Utah desert. With salt flats on one side and mountains on the other, nestled in between was a water oasis. Spring fed, this area is a migrating waterfowl paradise.
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| Fish Springs Wildlife Refuge in Utah |
I knew we had but one choice... we could hardly spend days in the truck, running the air conditioner, waiting for the herd to come closer. I was heartsick, knowing that we had to find higher elevations and cooler temperatures for Roxanne. Who would have thought that less than a week after sub-freezing temperatures in Banff that we would now be heading for higher ground because it was too hot, particularly when it had been so cool during last year's visit?
With the wild horse herd still miles off any road, we broke camp, turned east, and headed to higher ground.
Tuesday, September 16, 2014
Looking for Moose in All the Wrong Places
Since our first visit to the Tetons in the 80's, it has been one of the best places we've found to photograph moose... except for the past several years. While camping at Sheffield Creek, we had a great conversation with the only other campers, a local rancher and his wife who often come to the area for horseback riding. In the course of our conversation we told him that we were looking for moose to photograph. To my dismay, the rancher said that the moose population was down drastically. He blamed a growing number of predators, including bear, wolves, and mountain lion.
Of course, I was devastated at the news. We broke camp and headed to Lake Jackson Lodge, our favorite place to download emails. While there, I looked into the moose mystery and read several news articles highlighting the reasons for the moose decline.
It appears that moose have declined in the Grand Teton, Bridger/Teton, and Shoshone forests by 30 percent over the past decade. While the rancher is correct that predators have made an impact in the moose decline, most reports that I read indicated that a variety of issues have made the moose more susceptible to predation. Moose are cold weather animals. A series of warmer winters and shorter springs have diminished the kinds of plants moose normally forage. While some moose have migrated in search of food and colder temperatures, others have stayed and become malnourished to the point that mothers, for example, are having difficulty carrying their babies to term or supplying their new calves with proper nutrition. To make matters worse, a deadly parasite called Elaeophora schneideri, is ravaging moose herds (see Where are the Moose?). Unfortunately, none of the reports ended with hope that a sudden comeback of the moose population was on the horizon.
We left the Tetons within the hour, deciding that the Davis Mountains and my herd of wild horses would offer a better photo op. We found a campground eight miles up a four-wheel drive road, looking for solitude. Unfortunately, we didn't realize that this was the first weekend of hunting season and the area was a local favorite. There must have been over a dozen horse trailers and even more trucks pulling ATVs in the area. While it was still dark, we heard shots being fired far too close to our campsite. We decided to break camp and leave early, shortly after dawn.
I told David that with hunting season now open that we probably wouldn't see a single member of the deer family for the remainder of the trip. I was wrong. Within minutes of my making that statement, we rounded a bend, and lo and behold, a mother moose and her calf were grazing near a pond about 50 yards from the roadside. (When will I ever learn that God is in charge... not me?)
We stopped to take a few photos... unfortunately, all blurry because I had the camera set in the wrong position. No matter... it was a privilege and a blessing to watch hope in the form of a moose and her calf drenched in rays of sunlight.
Of course, I was devastated at the news. We broke camp and headed to Lake Jackson Lodge, our favorite place to download emails. While there, I looked into the moose mystery and read several news articles highlighting the reasons for the moose decline.
It appears that moose have declined in the Grand Teton, Bridger/Teton, and Shoshone forests by 30 percent over the past decade. While the rancher is correct that predators have made an impact in the moose decline, most reports that I read indicated that a variety of issues have made the moose more susceptible to predation. Moose are cold weather animals. A series of warmer winters and shorter springs have diminished the kinds of plants moose normally forage. While some moose have migrated in search of food and colder temperatures, others have stayed and become malnourished to the point that mothers, for example, are having difficulty carrying their babies to term or supplying their new calves with proper nutrition. To make matters worse, a deadly parasite called Elaeophora schneideri, is ravaging moose herds (see Where are the Moose?). Unfortunately, none of the reports ended with hope that a sudden comeback of the moose population was on the horizon.
We left the Tetons within the hour, deciding that the Davis Mountains and my herd of wild horses would offer a better photo op. We found a campground eight miles up a four-wheel drive road, looking for solitude. Unfortunately, we didn't realize that this was the first weekend of hunting season and the area was a local favorite. There must have been over a dozen horse trailers and even more trucks pulling ATVs in the area. While it was still dark, we heard shots being fired far too close to our campsite. We decided to break camp and leave early, shortly after dawn.
I told David that with hunting season now open that we probably wouldn't see a single member of the deer family for the remainder of the trip. I was wrong. Within minutes of my making that statement, we rounded a bend, and lo and behold, a mother moose and her calf were grazing near a pond about 50 yards from the roadside. (When will I ever learn that God is in charge... not me?)
We stopped to take a few photos... unfortunately, all blurry because I had the camera set in the wrong position. No matter... it was a privilege and a blessing to watch hope in the form of a moose and her calf drenched in rays of sunlight.
Thank you, Lord! With hearts lifted, we set our sights on Utah.
"Surprise us with love at daybreak; then we'll skip and dance all the day long." Psalm 90:14 (The Message)
Monday, September 15, 2014
Noise, Noise, Noise, Noise!!!
It felt great to be back in the U.S.A.!!! It's amazing what little things make such a difference... miles versus kilometers make perfect sense to me, and it feels so good to not need to calculate the difference anymore!
We spent our first night back in the States in East Glacier National Park's Many Glacier campground, a campground we have loved for years. It had a much different feel this trip. For the first time since we can remember, we arrived before the campground had shut down water to the sites. In the past, we shared the campground with only a handful of other campers. Today it was nearly full with only a few vacant campsites. We looked for a site with lots of sunlight, hoping to dry out the camper. after all the snow We settled on site number four. We popped the top and began to air out all our wet gear. Obviously, Glacier had also received a good amount of snow, however it was melting fast in the 40+ degree sunshine.
Within the hour, a motorhome pulled in across from us. As soon as the group arrived, they turned on their old, noisy generator. A neighboring camper banged on the motorhome's door, explaining to the inhabitants that generator hours were from five to seven. Within minutes the generator quit. Unfortunately, they restarted the generator at five and ran it the entire two hours. By the time they cut it off, nerves across the campground were shattered, particularly mine.
Feeling like claustrophobic Grinches, we left Glacier first thing in the morning, looking for quieter places and reminding ourselves that our adjustment from remote to busy has always been difficult on these adventures.
We headed to Yellowstone. Again, we were unaccustomed to such crowds. By the time we arrived in the park, Mammoth Springs and Fishing Bridge campgrounds were both full. We ended up in Madison campground. The park attendant did his best to find us a quiet spot. We and one group of tent campers were the only dry campers in the entire campground. Rows and rows of motor homes, fifth wheels, and rental RVs surrounded us. Generators whined around us, although, thankfully, not next door.
We had counted on Yellowstone's facilities to help us prepare for the last few weeks of our trip. The next morning we headed straight to much-needed showers and did several loads of laundry. As we lamented the crowds, we realized that we had not been here so early in the season in years. With the weather pushing us relentlessly south, we were in Yellowstone a full two to three weeks earlier than expected. Normally, we don't arrive until late September or early October. By that time, the only campgrounds open are dry sites... without water or electricity, and visitors are much fewer. Today, we were surrounded by bustling crowds and big rigs.
Over the years, much in camping has changed. Tent and small campers use to be the norm. Now it is motorhomes, fifth wheels, and camper vans. Most are like small apartments on wheels. Some come complete with granite countertops, microwaves, and bathtubs. Instead of a simple 110 electric cord to power small appliances, many of these rigs require 50 amps, sewer drains, and, of course, the optional satellite television hookup. These rigs have become so popular that an entire rent-an-RV business has become a favorite for travelers. In many respects it is a wonderful option for folks, offering a mobility and level of comfort that allows them to see more of the great outdoors.
But is it camping? I suppose it is all in the eye of the beholder. Several years ago, a huge motorhome pulled in, parking next to our pristine view of Muncho Lake. Not once did its inhabitants exit their vehicle. While medical reasons may have prevented their enjoying this beautiful area up close and personal, it seemed almost tragic to know that they had missed something so wonderful. In another campground, we watched one group spend no less than two hours trying to hone in their satellite dish so they could watch television. Again, perhaps they had a loved one on TV that night and wanted to watch, but too often it seems that folks are taking the very things that they want to get away from with them.
Please understand, I'm not dissing RVs or their owners... dear friends and our in-laws have had large rigs... and they definitely have used them to enjoy the wonderful outdoors. But as the years progress, it feels that there is a growing disconnect between those who travel in RVs and their enjoying the great outdoors. A park ranger told us (and recent statistics verify) that less than 2% of all national park visitors venture more than 100 yards off the main road. Oh, if they only knew what joys they were missing! Perhaps Richard Louv's theory of nature deficit disorder is growing at an even greater rate than even he imagined (see his book, Last Child in the Woods) and people are now observing nature at a distance or on television rather than experiencing it personally.
Several small business owners along the Alaskan Highway shared their concerns with us about the changes they were seeing with their customers. Many felt afraid and bewildered at the changing climate, wondering if their small businesses could survive the growing demands. One business owner told us that visitors would actually rant at her if they didn't have unlimited access to the internet or if their facilities couldn't accommodate their rig with electric, sewer, and satellite hookup. Many of these remote places along the AlCan simply can't afford the amenities folks request. One business owner said that they were shocked when their internet provider charged them an additional $1,000 one month because of overages on their internet usage. They discovered that guests were downloading everything from e-books to full resolution photos. After a request from one business owner that a woman download only email, she learned that the woman's son emailed her the entire Costco weekly ad so that she could see what they had for sale... even tho' she was on vacation and there wasn't a Costco within five hundred miles! Many business owners lamented that demands felt greater, personal connections fewer, and the economy worse than ever. One lady even commended us for not bringing our cell phones into her establishment and thanked us for talking directly to her rather than paying attention to our phones.
But I digress and must remind myself that after spending so much time surrounded by so few people over the past two months, re-entry is always a bit confusing. Feeling overstimulated from the crowds, I felt so grateful when the last load of laundry was dried and folded. We had an ace in the hole for even busy Yellowstone. We headed straight for Sheffield Creek.
This primitive National Forest campground has only six sites, a pit toilet, and no water or electricity. It also has a creek crossing which prohibits larger rigs from entering. After setting camp, we stretched, took in a short hike, and relished a lovely sunset. By nightfall, we were one of only two campers. The stars were bright, and the wind warm.
Ahh... nothing beats the beautiful outdoors filled with nothing but peace and quiet!!!
We spent our first night back in the States in East Glacier National Park's Many Glacier campground, a campground we have loved for years. It had a much different feel this trip. For the first time since we can remember, we arrived before the campground had shut down water to the sites. In the past, we shared the campground with only a handful of other campers. Today it was nearly full with only a few vacant campsites. We looked for a site with lots of sunlight, hoping to dry out the camper. after all the snow We settled on site number four. We popped the top and began to air out all our wet gear. Obviously, Glacier had also received a good amount of snow, however it was melting fast in the 40+ degree sunshine.
Within the hour, a motorhome pulled in across from us. As soon as the group arrived, they turned on their old, noisy generator. A neighboring camper banged on the motorhome's door, explaining to the inhabitants that generator hours were from five to seven. Within minutes the generator quit. Unfortunately, they restarted the generator at five and ran it the entire two hours. By the time they cut it off, nerves across the campground were shattered, particularly mine.
Feeling like claustrophobic Grinches, we left Glacier first thing in the morning, looking for quieter places and reminding ourselves that our adjustment from remote to busy has always been difficult on these adventures.
We headed to Yellowstone. Again, we were unaccustomed to such crowds. By the time we arrived in the park, Mammoth Springs and Fishing Bridge campgrounds were both full. We ended up in Madison campground. The park attendant did his best to find us a quiet spot. We and one group of tent campers were the only dry campers in the entire campground. Rows and rows of motor homes, fifth wheels, and rental RVs surrounded us. Generators whined around us, although, thankfully, not next door.
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| North Yellowstone Entrance |
Over the years, much in camping has changed. Tent and small campers use to be the norm. Now it is motorhomes, fifth wheels, and camper vans. Most are like small apartments on wheels. Some come complete with granite countertops, microwaves, and bathtubs. Instead of a simple 110 electric cord to power small appliances, many of these rigs require 50 amps, sewer drains, and, of course, the optional satellite television hookup. These rigs have become so popular that an entire rent-an-RV business has become a favorite for travelers. In many respects it is a wonderful option for folks, offering a mobility and level of comfort that allows them to see more of the great outdoors.
But is it camping? I suppose it is all in the eye of the beholder. Several years ago, a huge motorhome pulled in, parking next to our pristine view of Muncho Lake. Not once did its inhabitants exit their vehicle. While medical reasons may have prevented their enjoying this beautiful area up close and personal, it seemed almost tragic to know that they had missed something so wonderful. In another campground, we watched one group spend no less than two hours trying to hone in their satellite dish so they could watch television. Again, perhaps they had a loved one on TV that night and wanted to watch, but too often it seems that folks are taking the very things that they want to get away from with them.
Please understand, I'm not dissing RVs or their owners... dear friends and our in-laws have had large rigs... and they definitely have used them to enjoy the wonderful outdoors. But as the years progress, it feels that there is a growing disconnect between those who travel in RVs and their enjoying the great outdoors. A park ranger told us (and recent statistics verify) that less than 2% of all national park visitors venture more than 100 yards off the main road. Oh, if they only knew what joys they were missing! Perhaps Richard Louv's theory of nature deficit disorder is growing at an even greater rate than even he imagined (see his book, Last Child in the Woods) and people are now observing nature at a distance or on television rather than experiencing it personally.
Several small business owners along the Alaskan Highway shared their concerns with us about the changes they were seeing with their customers. Many felt afraid and bewildered at the changing climate, wondering if their small businesses could survive the growing demands. One business owner told us that visitors would actually rant at her if they didn't have unlimited access to the internet or if their facilities couldn't accommodate their rig with electric, sewer, and satellite hookup. Many of these remote places along the AlCan simply can't afford the amenities folks request. One business owner said that they were shocked when their internet provider charged them an additional $1,000 one month because of overages on their internet usage. They discovered that guests were downloading everything from e-books to full resolution photos. After a request from one business owner that a woman download only email, she learned that the woman's son emailed her the entire Costco weekly ad so that she could see what they had for sale... even tho' she was on vacation and there wasn't a Costco within five hundred miles! Many business owners lamented that demands felt greater, personal connections fewer, and the economy worse than ever. One lady even commended us for not bringing our cell phones into her establishment and thanked us for talking directly to her rather than paying attention to our phones.
But I digress and must remind myself that after spending so much time surrounded by so few people over the past two months, re-entry is always a bit confusing. Feeling overstimulated from the crowds, I felt so grateful when the last load of laundry was dried and folded. We had an ace in the hole for even busy Yellowstone. We headed straight for Sheffield Creek.
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| Sheffield Creek Campground |
Ahh... nothing beats the beautiful outdoors filled with nothing but peace and quiet!!!
Thursday, September 11, 2014
Winter Wonderland
We awoke to a winter wonderland. As Roxanne bounded in the snow, we took photos and built a little snowman. Our camp neighbors, all from Canada, lamented at the coming of an early winter and seemed delighted that these strange Texans were having such a blast.
With so much snow on our rig, I began using our little whisk broom to brush it off the windshield while David worked on how we might lower the camper top under the weight of all the snowfall. A kind neighbor brought his broom to help me. It was a life saver.
When David dropped the top to our Four Wheel Camper, the weight of the snow blew the canvas out rather than tucking it in as it normally does. It took both of us to lift the top again so that we could tuck it back where it belonged.
We had decided to break camp and head toward Calgary... well, actually, we were heading as far south as was necessary to outrun this snow. Our persnickety heater had failed to ignite several times during the night. We had slept upside down from our normal positions so that David could whack on the furnace to kick start it.
We heard the snowplow go by in both directions while we were dropping the camper. Once on the road, we were surprised at how icy it felt. We only saw one other critter out in the cold... a buck grazing amid the snowflakes.
We stopped at the Canmore visitor's center to check road conditions. It was a good thing that we did. We learned that the highway to Calgary was shut down and that travelers were being turned back. We had a hot breakfast, filled our propane tanks, and decided to wait it out another night, hoping that the weather would clear.
It continued snowing off and on the rest of the day. We drove back to Two Jack campground, only to be turned away. Heavy snow had broken power lines in the area. They sent us to Tunnel Mountain. We settled in to what our very friendly park attendant assured us was the best site with a view.
I awoke to David chipping icicles from above my head. During the night the furnace had again failed to ignite. It was 29 degrees inside the camper, and the condensate had frozen into icicles. Needless to say, I was not a happy camper. David banged the furnace back into submission, but it was just too little too late for a cozy morning.
While the snow fall had stopped, ice had formed in its place. Everything was iced over. Even the truck doors were frozen shut. David leveraged a foot against the running boards to free the driver's door. The gasket surrounding the door came loose when the door popped open. Thankfully, he was able to wedge it back into place.
Our fingers felt frozen inside gloves while we broke camp. Wearing almost everything that we owned, we worked as fast as we could to drop the camper top. We were absolutely shivering by the time we were ready to drive out. The temperature on the dash showed 22 degrees... much too cold for this Texas girl!
The view, however, was absolutely breathtaking.
The roads were clear and quite passable on the highway. In Calgary, the Mac Genius Bar folks were able to revive my computer in minutes. While it runs slowly, it is actually running. What a blessing!
As beautiful and wonderful as Canada can be this time of year, we decided it was time for us to head back into the good ole USA. This Texas gal is definitely ready for warmer weather!
With so much snow on our rig, I began using our little whisk broom to brush it off the windshield while David worked on how we might lower the camper top under the weight of all the snowfall. A kind neighbor brought his broom to help me. It was a life saver.
When David dropped the top to our Four Wheel Camper, the weight of the snow blew the canvas out rather than tucking it in as it normally does. It took both of us to lift the top again so that we could tuck it back where it belonged.
We had decided to break camp and head toward Calgary... well, actually, we were heading as far south as was necessary to outrun this snow. Our persnickety heater had failed to ignite several times during the night. We had slept upside down from our normal positions so that David could whack on the furnace to kick start it.
We heard the snowplow go by in both directions while we were dropping the camper. Once on the road, we were surprised at how icy it felt. We only saw one other critter out in the cold... a buck grazing amid the snowflakes.
We stopped at the Canmore visitor's center to check road conditions. It was a good thing that we did. We learned that the highway to Calgary was shut down and that travelers were being turned back. We had a hot breakfast, filled our propane tanks, and decided to wait it out another night, hoping that the weather would clear.
It continued snowing off and on the rest of the day. We drove back to Two Jack campground, only to be turned away. Heavy snow had broken power lines in the area. They sent us to Tunnel Mountain. We settled in to what our very friendly park attendant assured us was the best site with a view.
I awoke to David chipping icicles from above my head. During the night the furnace had again failed to ignite. It was 29 degrees inside the camper, and the condensate had frozen into icicles. Needless to say, I was not a happy camper. David banged the furnace back into submission, but it was just too little too late for a cozy morning.
While the snow fall had stopped, ice had formed in its place. Everything was iced over. Even the truck doors were frozen shut. David leveraged a foot against the running boards to free the driver's door. The gasket surrounding the door came loose when the door popped open. Thankfully, he was able to wedge it back into place.
Our fingers felt frozen inside gloves while we broke camp. Wearing almost everything that we owned, we worked as fast as we could to drop the camper top. We were absolutely shivering by the time we were ready to drive out. The temperature on the dash showed 22 degrees... much too cold for this Texas girl!
The view, however, was absolutely breathtaking.
The roads were clear and quite passable on the highway. In Calgary, the Mac Genius Bar folks were able to revive my computer in minutes. While it runs slowly, it is actually running. What a blessing!
As beautiful and wonderful as Canada can be this time of year, we decided it was time for us to head back into the good ole USA. This Texas gal is definitely ready for warmer weather!
Wednesday, September 10, 2014
Jasper to Banff
As we left Jasper, we spied our big bull elk and harem. Park rangers converged about the same time as we arrived, requesting all onlookers to move along. Disappointed at the missed photo op but happy to see our boogie woogie bugle boy alive and well, we drove on towards Banff National Park.
We made a pit stop for Roxanne and found a beautiful vista in the process. At the lower elevations, the snow had melted.
We arrived at the Skyline trailhead. With temperatures in the 40s, we decided to leave our sleeping golden girl in the truck while we hiked. We were amazed at the amount of snow on the trail here. In many places, the trail was iced over. The summit view, however, was well worth the slippery slope.
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We made a pit stop for Roxanne and found a beautiful vista in the process. At the lower elevations, the snow had melted.
We arrived at the Skyline trailhead. With temperatures in the 40s, we decided to leave our sleeping golden girl in the truck while we hiked. We were amazed at the amount of snow on the trail here. In many places, the trail was iced over. The summit view, however, was well worth the slippery slope.
Next, we decided to drive to Lake Moraine. Thankfully, we arrived in between tour buses and decided to take Roxanne for a stretch. It felt great to take the hike along the lake. Lake Moraine has always been a favorite spot of ours. We had hoped to spend our 25th anniversary in one of the cabins here but another family wedding took precedence. We still have it on our bucket list.
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| Lake Moraine in Banff National Park |
As we were leaving, a raven sat on a rock, looking for handouts. I stopped to take a photo of him along with a large group of tourists from one of the newly-arrived buses.
As we strolled back to the truck with Roxanne by my side, another tour bus began to unload. Suddenly, we felt like we were celebrities in the midst of paparazzi. Wait, let me rephrase that... David and I felt that we were escorting a celebrity in the midst of paparazzi. Suddenly Roxanne became the center of attention to the entire group of tourists from the bus. She patiently sat as each one took her photo. We were cracking up with laughter. How many photo albums will this dog end up in by the time it is all said and done? (We have since begun calling her the Royal Queen!)
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We returned to a favorite campsite at Two Jack. Skies were heavy and the park attendant whispered rumors of more snow to come. We're still hoping for skies to clear!
Call us Crazy
On to Jasper... again! Yes, in spite of spending four crazy days here at the height of a Canadian holiday, we find ourselves returning just a few weeks later. We're feeling relatively certain that the park should have a fewer crowds and, more importantly, the elk should be in rut.
Rain continued to follow us, but as we drove into the park, we found both sheep and elk. Two young bulls began to spar.
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And while the park was still busier than expected, mostly with Europeans taking advantage of steep, end-of-the-season discounts, our end of the campground felt fairly empty.
After showers, we began hunting the big bull elk that often keeps his harem around the shower house. Unfortunately, the park was expanding the nearby amphitheater and using backhoes and earth movers. With all the noise, he must have left for quieter quarters. We did, however, find one of his girls nearby, and she was kind enough to pose for us.
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With more rain forecast for the rest of the day, we decided to go into town for a few provisions. The skies were beginning to feel dismally grey again. As I lay down to sleep, I prayed for a little relief from those rain drops that kept falling on our heads.
When I awoke the next morning and peeked out my window, I began to giggle. God did, indeed, answer my prayer... the rain had definitely stopped... it had turned to snow!
We broke camp and decided to drive up to Maligne Lake, where we have found lots of wildlife in the past. We spied a younger bull elk on the north end of the campground. He peacefully munched on alder bushes as I took photos.
Our trip up to Maligne Lake was like driving through a Christmas card... the pines were layered in snow and flurries swirled around us. By the time we arrived at the lake, the temperatures had risen enough for the snow to turn back into a misty rain.
On our return down the mountain, we discovered a herd of sheep and a half dozen vehicles parked around them. It amazes me how close folks are willing to get to wild animals. I have been chased around the car by a mother sheep on two different occasions. They have a certain look in their eyes that makes me more than a bit wary.
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My fellow photographers, however, seemed to have no such fear. So I took photos of them...
When a tour bus arrived and its inhabitants spilled into the roadway so that they could also take photos, we took that as our cue to leave. On our way back to the campground, we spied a coyote hunting near the road. I managed to be shooting as he pounced on a mouse and swallowed it whole.
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We rounded the corner leading to our campsite, looking closely for our elk. We soon located him, resting deep in the trees. It had been a great day for photos!
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There was a noticeable chill in the air. Misty rain came down steadily and we wondered if we would have more snow in the morning. Again it felt like we were being driven south. Tomorrow we head for Banff.
Rain continued to follow us, but as we drove into the park, we found both sheep and elk. Two young bulls began to spar.
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And while the park was still busier than expected, mostly with Europeans taking advantage of steep, end-of-the-season discounts, our end of the campground felt fairly empty.
After showers, we began hunting the big bull elk that often keeps his harem around the shower house. Unfortunately, the park was expanding the nearby amphitheater and using backhoes and earth movers. With all the noise, he must have left for quieter quarters. We did, however, find one of his girls nearby, and she was kind enough to pose for us.
.jpg)
With more rain forecast for the rest of the day, we decided to go into town for a few provisions. The skies were beginning to feel dismally grey again. As I lay down to sleep, I prayed for a little relief from those rain drops that kept falling on our heads.
When I awoke the next morning and peeked out my window, I began to giggle. God did, indeed, answer my prayer... the rain had definitely stopped... it had turned to snow!
We broke camp and decided to drive up to Maligne Lake, where we have found lots of wildlife in the past. We spied a younger bull elk on the north end of the campground. He peacefully munched on alder bushes as I took photos.
On our return down the mountain, we discovered a herd of sheep and a half dozen vehicles parked around them. It amazes me how close folks are willing to get to wild animals. I have been chased around the car by a mother sheep on two different occasions. They have a certain look in their eyes that makes me more than a bit wary.
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My fellow photographers, however, seemed to have no such fear. So I took photos of them...
Obviously these sheep were use to people. These folks in the next photo had to put their car window up to keep the sheep from trying to crawl in with them.
When a tour bus arrived and its inhabitants spilled into the roadway so that they could also take photos, we took that as our cue to leave. On our way back to the campground, we spied a coyote hunting near the road. I managed to be shooting as he pounced on a mouse and swallowed it whole.
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We rounded the corner leading to our campsite, looking closely for our elk. We soon located him, resting deep in the trees. It had been a great day for photos!
There was a noticeable chill in the air. Misty rain came down steadily and we wondered if we would have more snow in the morning. Again it felt like we were being driven south. Tomorrow we head for Banff.