The Steese Highway

After a three-hour fix to replace the air bags in the truck (at the wonderful Bulletproof Trailers), we spent the night camping at Fairbank's Chitna State Park.  Truthfully, we were concerned.  The park sits right below the landing runway of the Fairbanks airport.  Thankfully, air traffic stopped around ten in the evening.  We were on the road early the next morning, however, when planes began landing again around six.

After a few reprovisioning stops, we traveled up the Elliot Highway to take the Steese Highway to Circle.  The Steese was a new road for us.  It was an easy drive, over a third paved, with the gravel roads that were well maintained.  We traveled 161 miles from Fairbanks to the town of Circle, which rests on the Yukon River (about 50 miles south of the Arctic Circle).

The drive took us through boreal forests, some recently burned.  In spite of the barren landscape caused by the fires, it was strikingly beautiful to see the charred remains of the forest drenched in fireweed.

Steese Highway, Alaska

While the town of Circle was built in the 1890s to service the gold industry, the population of Circle appears now to be largely First Nation peoples.  We met a very personable man named Gary who welcomed us to the community and told us a little about the town and invited us to partake of the hot coffee at the local restaurant.  Children played on swings.  A local church was holding Vacation Bible School, and we could hear the children singing.

Circle, Alaska

Yukon River near Circle, Alaska

With no campgrounds other than the boat launch on the Yukon River, we opted to drive back to Cripple Creek Campground, about two thirds of the way back down the highway.  After a short hike up Eagle Summit, we were ready to settle in for the evening.

Eagle Summit on the Steese Highway

The campground was nice but a bit buggy.  We were happy, however, to sit under out new bug screen tent and watch the mosquitoes hovering around, trying to get in for a tasty morsel.  It's always nice when you can outfox a mosquito!

Tomorrow, it's on to the Dalton Highway... aka The Haul Road!

Magical Mystery Tour

We have decided to dub this trip the Magical Mystery Tour.  So far nothing has gone according to plan, and it just keeps getting more and more interesting!  As most of you know by now, one of my favorite sayings is:  "If you want to hear God laugh, just tell Him your plans."  Believe me, He's laughing!

We had intended to take an excursion up Telegraph Road out of Dease Lake after we left Kinaskin.  When we arrived in Dease, however, we discovered that road crews were repairing the bridge.  It was closed between 7:00 am and noon and 1:00 pm and 5:00 pm each day.  We decided we best not chance taking the road for fear we would get stuck on the wrong side and would be unable to meet Charlie in Haines.

We drove to Lake Watson for the night on Thursday, stopping by the Visitor's Center to use their free internet service to check emails.  Among the notes was an email from Charlie titled "I'm in Trouble."  We quickly learned that Charlie had broken down in a remote area on the Alaska/Canada border.  He was waiting for parts for his motorcycle to arrive, but since the parts were coming from California, they wouldn't arrive until Monday.  He had been towed to a lodge and RV camp some 23 miles from the nearest town.  The lodge cook was having knee surgery, so the restaurant was closed.  He was living off his small stash of provisions and some greasy egg sandwiches out of the lodge's convenience store.

We emailed back and told him that we would forego Haines and meet him at the lodge after we had the truck's oil changed in Whitehorse.  By the time we arrived in Whitehorse the following day, Charlie had written to say that the parts arrived early.  Unfortunately, the motorcycle was still broken.  Because of the bike's age and the cost of towing it to a repair shop, Charlie had decided to abandon the bike at the lodge.  He asked if it would be possible for us to take him to an airport.  Of course, we agreed.

The following morning, not more than 40 miles out of Whitehorse, the bolts sheared off one of the air bags used to stabilize the rear of our truck.  Because it was the weekend and we were on the most remote area of the Alaska Highway, we knew there would be no repair shops open for the next 400 miles.  We decided to drive the distance to Fairbanks with one air bag hanging by a thread and both deflated.  Each hard bump, however, caused the truck to bottom out.  As a result, we had to drive very slowly (about 45 miles per hour), particularly on the rough roads... and the section between Haines Junction north is the roughest part of the Alaska Highway... it was an excruciatingly long and tiring day.

Some two hours later than expected, we arrived at the lodge and found Charlie sitting by his gear.  Since it had been three years since our first and only meeting, I wasn't positive it was him.  I drove up and said, "Charlie?"  He responded, "Virginia?"

We loaded him up, stopped to say goodbye to the Swamp Thing (his motorcycle), and slowly drove the additional 92 miles to Tok, stopping just outside town to camp at a recreational area.  We broke camp in misty rain this morning.  Tonight we sit in a motel in Fairbanks under rainy clouds and 50-degree weather.  Tomorrow Charlie flies back to Colorado while we find a repair shop that will fix the airbag.

Charlie and the Swamp Thing

A Jewish legend says that God made people because He loves stories.  Charlie certainly has a story to tell.  Over four solo quests, he has traversed the entire northern route of Canada on motorcycle.  After making his goal and on the last leg of his journey, he must abandon his faithful motorcycle and fly home.  His life's journey is even more amazing.  We certainly look forward to hearing about Charlie's next chapter.

A chance encounter with Charlie?  What's the probability?  It's an incredible story in itself... meeting him while we camped near a remote cove in Nova Scotia some three years ago.  Then, three years later discovering that our paths might cross during our respective trips west this year, we set Haines as a rendezvous point.  The Telegraph Road is closed.  We receive Charlie's email just before the turnoff to Haines.  Charlie's parts arrive three days early.  And tonight, here we all sit in a motel in Fairbanks.  At least in my book, it's too many coincidences for this to be simply chance!  I love a great story, too!  :)

Also, some wonderful news...  Roxanne is eating again... not a lot, but enough to offer great hope!  We have been gravely concerned about her since before the vet visit in Bozeman.  While both our home vet and the Bozeman vet each gave her a clean bill of health, she has lost nearly ten pounds in the past several weeks.  She grew weaker and sicker at Kinaskin Lake, and I feared we would lose her on this trip.  It appears now that she had a terrible case of gastritis which caused some internal bleeding and a complete aversion to food.  Thankfully, homeopathic remedies worked, and she is feeling herself again and eating.  What a blessing and answered prayer!

So the Magical Mystery Tour continues.  Our now TENTATIVE plans are to travel up the Haul Road again, all the way to Prudhoe Bay.  There are also several roads north of Fairbanks that we didn't make during our first trip.  We'll see what God has in store next!

ALASKA!!!

Woohoo!!!  We crossed into Alaska this afternoon, just short of being two weeks on the road.  So far we've driven a mere 4,637 miles.  Here's a map of how far we've come (minus our beginning point just north of Houston)...

Kinaskin Lake

Kinaskin Lake on Cassiar Highway

Our first stay at Kinaskin Lake Provincial Park was in 2011.  Kinaskin rests about mid-way on the Cassiar Highway.  It is a beautiful lake surrounded by mountains and dense poplars and evergreens.  We were anxious to return to this wonderful spot and found our favorite campsite #35 available.  Of course, Roxanne was in the chilly water within seconds.

We soon made friends with our four camp neighbors and became reacquainted with the park host, Margaret.  Each of these wonderful people shared their kindness and generosity with us during our stay.  In addition to warm conversation, our camp neighbors provided us with fresh rainbow trout that they had caught moments before... one an extra-special treat because it was Cindy's' first catch ever.  Margaret shared a bunch of romaine lettuce, garlic chives, and rhubarb.  As a result, Wednesday night we relished a feast fit for kings!

Sporadic rain showers followed us throughout Wednesday.  While we had plan to take out Calypso our (our blow-up boat) to paddle around the lake, instead we sat under the screened-in tent and read.  I devoured the book Jesus Prom in a single sitting... a wonderful, inspirational book on extravagant love.  Wow!  In between rain showers, we strolled around the lake trail, enjoying the lush forest, and trying to deter Roxanne from spending the entire day in the water.

Roxanne's age is clearly showing.  The cold water quickly zapped the warmth from her.  As she began to shiver, we would wrap her in dry towels.  She snuggled under them most of the evening until she finally warmed up sufficiently to wriggle out from underneath them.

We awoke to unexpected 37 degree temperatures on Thursday morning.  Donned in three layers of clothing, we broke camp and hugged goodbyes to new-found friends.  One of the great blessings of our travels is the opportunity it provides us to meet special people that weave themselves into the fabric of our adventures.  Safe travels dear friends... we hope to see you again one day!

Our plan today is to travel to Dease Lake and take the Telegraph Highway (a new road for us)... then on to Haines, Alaska, to meet Charlie.  Charlie is another travel friend that we met several years ago in Nova Scotia.  He and Swamp Thing (his Kawasaki motorcycle) have been taking annual solo cross-country trips.  This year, thankfully, our paths will cross.

Still no wildlife (other than Roxanne) to photograph, but who knows what lies around the corner.  Hopefully we will have internet service again in Haines.  We will catch up with you then!

The Start of the Cassiar

We have been pushing it... having travelled over 2,400 miles in a week.  Rain continues to follow us.  In fact, as I write this, we are sitting under the camper awning, listening to the pitter-patter of rain on the roof.

After our stop in Bozeman, we found a beautiful, remote campsite just south of Libby, Montana, near Howard Lake.  As we drove up the gravel road, the rain turned into a downpour.  By mile marker 3, we were hardly able to see.  By mile marker 4, we were in a deluge of hail.  By mile marker 5, we were kicking up dust behind us!  We were able to enjoy the evening sitting out in the wilds.

The following day we crossed into Canada.  The border guard simply glanced at our passports and told us to enjoy our trip.  Very easy!

We traveled through BC wine country in the Okanagan Valley on Saturday.  Fruit orchards lined the highway.  By the time we reached Osoyoos, it was obvious that many others had also made their way to this beautiful area.  Campgrounds were full, and the rain began again in earnest.  We opted for a motel in Princeton rather than try to drive through the hard rain not knowing if a campground would have spots available.

Last night we spent at 10-Mile Lake.  Again, another lovely spot deep in the forest.  We were so thankful to have our new screened-in porch to keep the mosquitoes out.  Again last night, we awoke to rain and had to scurry out of bed to close hatches and windows.

Our plans were to spend tonight at a provincial campground near New Hazleton, however, it was one of the worst we have ever seen in BC.  So tonight we are in the Cassiar RV Park, right across from a lumber mill.  But it is clean and just at the beginning of the Cassiar Highway.

I'll try to upload a few photos when we have internet service again.  So far we have seen no large animals, and the mountains have been draped in heavy clouds.  Our plans from here are to drive to Kenaskin Lake tomorrow, a favorite stop several years ago.  If the weather cooperates, Roxanne will have her first swim there.  We're also hoping to see lots of animals... during our last visit, we saw nine black bear between Hyder and Kenaskin!

Life is good, and we are especially happy that you are joining us!  God bless!

Unexpected Detour

The sun is shining...

We sit in a motel in Bozeman, Montana, this evening... an unexpected detour.  Several weeks ago, Roxanne had to have a change in diet due to early stages of kidney problems (she is nearly 14 years old!).  She has eaten little since.  While her spirits are up, she is alert, and she seems happy to be traveling, she refused even her favorite foods this morning.  Fearing pancreatitis, we stopped in Lovell.  Because they were unable to take her, we ended up at the Gallatin Vet Hospital in Bozeman (a great clinic... thank you!).

The good news is that Roxanne appears to simply have a low-grade infection and difficulty adjusting to the new diet.  A good dose of antibiotics and an appetite stimulant, and she should be good to go.  By the time we left the vet office, however, it was late afternoon.  We decided to stay here at the MountainView Lodge and Suites (http://www.mountainviewlodgemontana.com).  They have been extremely gracious and accommodating to us and our Golden girl.

It has been all rain since a few hours before we hit Amarillo.  We spent our second night in Curt Goudy State Park near Cheyenne, Wyoming, ducking in the camper shortly after set up due to an enormous thunderstorm that lasted the entire night.  We broke camp in a steady downpour.

Our first campsite... Curt Goudy State Park near Cheyenne, Wyoming

We had not expected to be camping so soon, particularly since Roxanne has more and more difficulty handling hot weather... it is the reason we push so hard to move north into cooler climes.  After our arrival in Amarillo, however, the temperatures have not been above 70 degrees until this afternoon.  My motto has always been that the vacation truly begins when we pull out the sweatshirts... I am happy to report, vacation has begun!

Last night we spent in the Porcupine Campground, deep in the Big Horn national forest.  We had a spectacular view of the beautiful, albeit cloud-covered, mountains.  Once again, however, thunderstorms drove us into the camper.  A deluge followed.  After midnight, however, the skies cleared and the moon came out from behind the clouds.  By six this morning, we had to close the black out shades on the east side of the camper so we could get another hour of sleep.

Porcupine Campground in the Big Horn National Forest, Wyoming

We are grateful that the sun is shining.  We missed seeing the Rockies all through Colorado and Wyoming because of clouds.  This afternoon, however, we finally see snow-capped peaks.  Halleliuja!

We are especially grateful that Rox has been given a clean bill of health to continue on our adventure.  Time to regroup, take some much-needed showers, and head for Canada tomorrow!  Woohoo!

An Auspicious Beginning

On the Road Again!

Dear Friends, As I write this, we sit in a motel in Amarillo under a severe weather alert and torrents of rain pounding around us.  The adventure begins!

We left home early this morning, driving nearly ten hours and arriving in Amarillo around 6:30 this evening.  When we gassed up the truck in Childress,  the temperature was 94 degrees.  The temps began to plummet under increasingly cloudy skies.  By the time we reached Amarillo, it was 67 degrees and pouring rain.  Traffic had slowed to a crawl because of the heavy downpour... and what a lightening storm!  We were so grateful that David had the inspiration to reserve a room in advance... a poor motorcyclist was waiting to hear if he would be turned away when we checked in.

In spite of the flash flood warnings, we are cozy in our room.  Depending on the weather tomorrow morning, we will either drive interstate through Denver or go straight north through eastern Colorado to avoid the storms.  Hopefully, we will make Cheyenne or Casper, Wyoming, tomorrow night.  Then it's on to Idaho for entry into Canada.  It is so great to be back on the road again!