Sunday, July 31, 2011

Mount Rainier


Plans are made for changing… we originally planned to route through Spokane to begin traveling north towards Canada.  

Mountains beckoned, however, and we decided to travel up the east side of the Mount Rainier National Park.  We have been staying at the Lodge Pole Campground, just south of Chinook Pass.

This area received a record amount of snow during the winter.  A significant amount still surrounds us.  The mountains all have a substantial dusting of snow.  Areas of shade have more than six foot of snow pack along the roadside.  Spring flowers are just now beginning to emerge. 

We spent three nights at Lodge Pole, traveling Mount Ranier’s uppermost highways and hiking its old growth forests. 



We made new friends with a group from Washington’s tri-state area.  These special folks were kind enough to invite us to a fabulous dinner at their site.  After eating backpacking meals for over a week, it was as if we were in gourmet chef’s heaven!

We even had the opportunity to test our Zodi instant hot water shower.  Using snow melt out of the American River, we are happy to report that both of us were able to get squeaky clean in water temperatures rivaling those at home.

Tomorrow we head for the Olympic National Forest.  Hopefully, we will be able to find internet service somewhere along the way so that we can actually upload these blogs!

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

We Found THE SPOT!!!

Dear Friends,

For all of you who are sweltering under the summer sun, we have found the perfect place for you.  In Idaho’s Sawtooth Mountains, near the town of Stanley, lies the absolute best solution for that summer heat.  It is the coldest place in the lower 48.

Evidently, this portion of Idaho sees less than 65 days per year without frost.  We awoke this morning to 34 degrees (inside the camper!!!). 

As we were breaking camp, we were shocked when two bucks strolled within 10 to 15 yards of our site.  



We are MOST DEFINITELY on vacation now!!!

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

When You Know that You're There


We have been traveling for a week now, mostly visiting family and friends before our grand adventure begins.  It has been hot, with temperatures soaring in the high 90s in Missouri and Colorado, and above 100 degrees in Oklahoma and Kansas. 

For years, David and I have had a little game that we have played… when does the vacation become a vacation?  For David, it is quite simple… when he was working, it was when his thoughts turned from business to pleasure.  Now it involves more of a change of scenery.   (Most often, it also involves when we turn on the John Denver CD!)

For me, it takes mountains and weather cool enough for a sweatshirt.  

For Roxanne, it’s always her first swim of the trip. 

Rox and I found our happy vacation place in Idaho.  We both got our vacation wishes.  Wow!

Here’s Rox during her first swim at Winchester State Park.  What a happy girl!


Monday, July 25, 2011

Heading Toward Cooler Climes!

Dear Friends,

We send this note from Montpelier, Idaho, tonight.  We are sitting in a KOA campground, relishing the cool weather.  After days of temperatures soaring above ninety, we are all delighted to sit out in the cool.  We may even be able to pull out sweatshirts tomorrow morning!

Tomorrow will be our last day of heavy driving.  Once we make Spokane, we will slow down to begin smelling the roses.  We plan to hug the Washington coast into Canada.  Hopefully, we'll be posting photos of wildlife soon!

Friday, July 22, 2011

Hot Time in the Old Town Tonight!

Thank God for cottonwood trees!  We are currently all huddled under the shade of this small tree while camped at a KOA in Wakeeney, Kansas.  The temperature is 104 degrees at 5:30 pm.

We have water at the site and have hosed Rox down several times already to keep her cool.  At least there is a strong breeze (bordering on gale force winds!).  We are definitely in Kansas!

We must be quite a spectacle to our neighbors.  We are surrounded by enormous rigs with harrier jet-type leveling systems, satellite television, and, most importantly, air conditioning.  After spending a few brief moments to hook up their units, we haven't seen a soul out and about.

Temperatures are suppose to plummet to around 72 degrees by morning.  Our first night camping will definitely be a hot time in the old Oz tonight!

We're praying for cooler temperatures in Colorado!!!

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

On the Road Again!

This post is scheduled to go up tomorrow morning.  It is evening now on the 18th.  Our house sitters are in place, we're packed, and ready to go.   By the time you read this, we should be on the road again.  

The initial posts may be a bit slow in coming.  This year, we will visit David's brother and mother before we head through Colorado on our way to Washington State.  Our plans are to head up the Cassiar Highway... from there... who knows?  

Below is the map of last year's trip... all 19,162 miles of it.  We left from Spring, Texas, and drove as far north as roads would carry us, up to Prudhoe Bay on Alaska's Haul Road and to Inuvick in Canada's Dempster Highway.  In between, we traveled through Alaska's Kenai Peninsula, Canada's Yukon and Northwest Territories, and made stops in Glacier, Yellowston, the Tetons, and Roosevelt National Parks.  We saw so many amazing vistas and wildlife, that we just have to go back! 

Of course, we invite you to follow our blog and share the adventure once again!  And, please, if you have any comments, just click on the "Post a Comment" button below and let us know what you're thinking!  We would love to hear from you!

Monday, July 18, 2011

This Is Dedicated to the Ones We Love...

We have reached our departure date.  Bright and early tomorrow morning, we'll begin our new "odyssey."

To be honest, this is a bittersweet time.  We have several dear family members and friends who are on odysseys of their own:  Paul, George, Buddy, and Ann are each facing serious health issues.  Please know that each of you will remain in our hearts and prayers during your recovery.

With assurances from everyone that we should still go, we humbly dedicate this trip to each of you.  We're hoping that in some small way that this blog and the photos might lift your spirits on those days when you feel that you've reached your limit.  We invite you to join the "view" under our hats (see Ode to Paul, July 25, 2010, post).

God is in charge.  We know that the Great Physician is with you and will see you through this time.  You know our contact info; please use it at any time.  We leave with confidence in your recovery and the knowledge that God is infinitely greater than any illness.

God bless you all.

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Alaska's Mosquitoes

There is a saying that everything is big in Texas.  I'm from Texas, and I certainly admit to having some fun with that statement.  However, we did find that Alaska certainly has outdone us in one major area... mosquitoes!

A tribute to mosquitoes found in Delta Junction, Alaska.
Euphemistically called the "Alaskan state bird," Alaskan mosquitoes are in a league by themselves.  These things are huge!  They are about the size of a Texas mosquito hawk, only with shorter legs.  The only good thing that we can say about them is that they fly much slower than Texas mosquitoes, making them easier to swat.

While Alaskan mosquitoes may be slow, they remain vicious and merciless, particularly from mid June through July.  To give you a small idea of how terrible they can be, caribou above the Arctic Circle lose about a half pint of blood every day to mosquitoes in the summer!

While on the Haul Road, we discovered how relentless the mosquitoes can get.  We first became aware of the problem when we were stopped by road crews.  These poor souls wore mosquito helmets, gloves, and clothing that covered every square inch of their skin.  We quickly became alarmed at the swarm of mosquitoes entering our dropped driver's side window.  Our young worker explained that one of the reasons that the mosquitoes were so thick on the road was because our vehicle's exhaust attracted them.

He was right.  When we stopped to take a few photos and give Rox a quick break, the mosquitoes swarmed the back of the truck so completely that we could hardly get Rox back inside fast enough.  The mosquitoes were so thick that we actually worried about inhaling them.

To help deter the mosquitoes, we purchased head nets and a bed net.  We placed Magna screens on the Xterra's windows while sleeping (see http://www.magnascreen.com/).  Note:  To ward off mosquitoes, one of our readers cleverly placed netting over their entire rig!

We also used a very effective natural wipe called Smart Shield, a combination of sunscreen and bug repellent (see http://www.gofastandlight.com/SmartShield-SPF30-Sunscreen-PLUS-Bug-Repellent/productinfo/H-SS27650/).  While many prefer DEET, this natural product seemed to work as well (if not better) for us.

I recognize that mosquitoes with this density level tend to make us question God's miraculous ways.  Surprisingly, however, mosquitoes do play an important role in Alaska's environment.  Their larvae supply ample food sources for Alaska's abundant fish.  Mosquitoes are also important pollinators.

Who knew?

Monday, July 4, 2011

Bear Aware

I admit that portraying a bear with bared teeth and swiping claws as a poster for bear safety offends me.  Please understand that I am not being cavalier about the risks of camping or backpacking in bear country.  Perhaps growing up on a cattle ranch, with its singing coyotes and occasional cougar tracks, offered me a different understanding of nature.

My belief is that we have replaced respect for apex animals with fear.  If we would only take the time to educate ourselves about any animal that we fear, not only would we sleep better at night but the animals, themselves, would be infinitely safer.

Let’s begin with the facts. Bears are highly intelligent, extremely powerful, and curious creatures.  A bear’s nose is 100 times more sensitive than Roxanne’s nose.  And her nose is over 70 times more sensitive than mine.

Grizzly on parade, Dempster Highway, 2010.
Additionally, because they hibernate for over six months in the far north, bears wake up from their winter’s nap ravenous, and they remain hungry throughout their awake time.  Their main objective is to double their weight by the time their next hibernation comes around. 

In order to coexist with bears, we must understand that their drive for food, their sense of smell, and their curiosity often combine to bring them in contact with humans.  Proper food storage is critical at all times, whether living, hiking, or camping in bear habitat.  Remember the old saying:  a fed bear is a dead bear (because once a bear becomes habituated to human food, he must often be destroyed).    

Now let’s look at the danger.  What are the odds of being killed by a bear?  Wildlife Research Institute’s principle biologist, Dr. Lynn Rogers, put it in perspective when he said, “My chances of being killed by a domestic dog, bees, or lightening are vastly greater.  My chances are 90,000 times greater of being murdered.  One of the safest places a person can be is in the woods with bears.”

Statistics show that 63 people in North America were killed by non-captive bears from 1900 to 2009.  Close inspection of these statistics indicate that the vast majority of bear fatalities were the result of two types of bears.  (See http://earthsky.org/biodiversity/most-black-bear-attacks-though-rare-are-by-predatory-males-in-wilderness).  Of those 63 fatalities, mother bears accounted for roughly 12 percent.  The remaining 88 percent were by predatory bears (mostly male).  Simply stated, a predatory bear sees humans as a food source.

A Denali park ranger told us that bears become increasingly more carnivorous the further north they live.   Recognizing the decrease in available vegetation above the Arctic Circle, this makes perfect sense.  It should also come as no surprise that the vast majority of the 63 known bear fatalities occurred in Canada and Alaska.  This is also the reason that working crews on the Haul Road always include a sentry armed with a shotgun.    

When David and I began backpacking in the late 70’s, experts emphasized proper food storage and how to avoid bears.  While proper food storage is still critical, recently there seems to be a definite shift in thinking that encourages people to understand the different types of bear encounters and the proper response to each (see http://www.bearsmart.com/becoming-bear-smart/home/bear-encounters).  In several Alaskan parks, we even found posted signs that detailed how to respond to different bear behaviours.

Whether hiking or camping, educating yourself about bears and being prepared is your best line of defense.

So what do David and I do for bear safety?

First and foremost, we try to keep a meticulously clean camp.  Particularly when in remote areas, we do not cook aromatic foods.  After years of backpacking experience, we have learned to stow our food properly.  Rather than using an Ursack (see http://www.ursack.com/index.html) or hanging our food as we do when we backpack, we now stow all foods and garbage within the vehicle or our hard-side aluminum storage box. 

Because bears seem to have a penchant for dog food, we store Roxanne’s kibble in two Bear Vault food containers, each lined with OP Sak odor protection bags.  We also store our food supplies in odor protection bags (see http://www.gofastandlight.com/ALOK-OP-Sak-9x10-Bags-Set-of-3/productinfo/P%2DAL%2DOP%2D9X10/.)

When arriving at a new area, we check with local authorities for information about bear activity.  If we are uncomfortable with our surroundings, we either leave the area or sleep in the back of the Xterra rather than the tent.

Because we hope to camp near salmon runs this year, we will also use an electric fence in areas of great vulnerability (see http://www.udap.com/bearshock.htm).  Research indicates that a bear's nose is so sensitive that they are often deterred just by detecting the electric current from yards away.  The idea is to circumvent the vehicle and camper with the fence to prevent intrusion.  We’ll let you know how it works!

When hiking, David and I each carry bear spray.  (We also keep the spray in reach while we sleep.)  David uses a walking stick.  I carry a small air horn (a Tempo signal horn, like those used at sporting events).

Additionally, we sing and talk.  We hike only known trails, never bushwacking.  We walk Roxanne on lead between us.  At the sign of fresh bear scat or other bear markings, we retreat.

We definitely retreated when we came upon this pile of fresh bear scat on Alaska's Ptarmagin Trail!

(Although many consider dogs to be poor hiking companions in bear country, we discovered that many Alaskans and Canadians feel quite the opposite.  Bears do not like dogs.  In the far north, many feel that hiking with their dogs increases the size of their group/pack.  They believe that if a bear sees a combination of humans and dogs, the bear will consider the group as being too formidable to charge.  Quite frankly, I believe that this line of reasoning is only true if the dog, like Roxanne, is obedient to the point that she/he will stay with the pack and not bark at or charge the bear.)

Other considerations?  I suppose that it will come as no surprise that a number of photographers have been mauled by bears (as well as by other animals).  Unfortunately, it is often the direct result of a poor choice between getting “the perfect shot” rather than respecting these amazing animals.  As a small example from our trip up the Dempster, we were shocked to see a man step out of his vehicle for a better photo of a grizzly parading not more than fifteen yards from him!

I admit to taking a chance or two with hoofed animals in my early days of photography.  Thankfully, David has taken matters into his own hands.  As an added safety measure, he gave me a long-distance (200-500 mm zoom) lens prior to our Alaskan adventure.  Trust me, it has already proven worth the investment.

Before you travel (hike, camp, fish, or hunt) in their habitat, please educate yourself about bears and bear awareness.  For a fantastic resource, we highly recommend Stephen Stringham’s Alaska Magnum Bear Safety Manual.  In fact we recommend any bear aware book by Stephen Stringham. 

The Get Bear Smart Society also offers a wide variety of bear awareness tools on their website at http://www.bearsmart.com/.  For another online resource, visit http://www.nps.gov/wrst/planyourvisit/upload/Harmony%20With%20Bears.pdf.

If you will be camping with children, please download this wonderful little activity book to help educate your young ones:  http://www.adfg.alaska.gov/static/species/livingwithwildlife/bears/pdfs/bearawarecoloring.pdf .  You can also purchase delightful playing cards that will help your children learn about bear safety (see http://www.gofastandlight.com/Bear-Smart-Playing-Card-Deck/productinfo/FU%2DSE%2DBEAR/).

By learning about these wonderful creatures, we and the bears can all be safer.