The Dempster’s Coat of Many Colors (Part Two)

It was now Friday, the beginning of Canada’s big Labor Day holiday.  With many establishments in Inuvik shutting down for the entire weekend, we decided to travel south. 

We were also concerned about finding an open campsite.  We had learned last year that most of Canada shuts down over this weekend.  The holiday is particularly important because it is the final weekend before the children return to school.  The tempo of the entire country seems to change after this date.  Labor Day signals a change in seasons.  Campgrounds begin shutting down and the tourist season wanes.

We traveled back across the Mackensie Delta.  This entire section of the Dempster, from the Mackensie River crossing to Inuvik is a vast, flat land.  It is covered in boreal forests with trees rarely taller than a man because of the permafrost.  Additionally, over fifty percent of the area is considered wetlands.

David and Rox on the Mackensie Delta

We passed an section of road with over a dozen snowshoe hares and another with Ptarmagin.  Both were beginning to turn white from their feet up to their bellies.  We saw a large black bear foraging for berries along the roadside.  He was a bit jittery when David pulled over and shut off the truck’s engine.  However, he soon determined that we were no threat and continued eating his snack. 

We stopped for some time at our favorite vista near the Yukon-Northwest Territories border.  David scanned the open tundra for signs of caribou but found none.  Last year, this same spot had been filled with hundreds of caribou.  We had thought that we had missed the migration last year, when, in fact, we had actually observed it.  This section of the Dempster is the Porcupine Herd’s wintering grounds and their ultimate destination most winters… but not this one.

We camped at Rock River Campground that night, hopeful that we would see more animals if we left early the next morning.  We were camped along the river when a Swiss couple asked if they could walk through our site to access the water.  We chatted for a few moments before they left for their stroll.

While we did not see caribou, we were delighted to find a bull moose crossing the tundra during our morning drive.  We and another couple were blessed to watch this magnificent beast until the driver of a big rig popped his air brakes and scared the moose into the forest. 

North of the Arctic Circle where we had seen last year’s grizzly close up, we saw a magnificent silver/grey bear in the far distance.  He would dash across the tundra, then whirl around, seemingly simply enjoying the moment.  We watched him for some time before he disappeared into the creek bed, wondering if he was the same bear we saw up close in this area last year.

At Eagle Plains, we met the Swiss couple again while we were all seated in the lounge area, trying to catch up on emails in the only area with internet access.  Carol and Rox became fast friends while Andi, David, and I became better acquainted.  The two are from a large city in Switzerland and have come to the Yukon several times.  Like us, they have been smitten by its beauty and remoteness.

As we drove along Olgivie Ridge toward Tombstone the next morning, David and I saw a large animal crossing the road about 25 yards ahead.  Obviously a large cat, it was buckskin in color and had a long body and tail.  It was so large that its front paws hit one set of tire tracks along the road, while its back paws hit the alternate set of tracks.  We both knew immediately that it was a mountain lion.  There was no time to snap a photo, however, we felt truly blessed to have seen one of these elusive creatures!

Olgivie Ridge, overlooking Continental Divide

Near where we saw the black grizzly on the way to Inuvik, we saw a mother grizzly with twin cubs foraging.  While again too far in the distance to take great photos, it was fun to sit and watch the trio.  The little ones appeared to be this spring’s cubs, one black and the other a cinnamon-grey.

Mother brown bear and twins

We remained optimistic about seeing more caribou.  Many along the route told us that where you see grizzlies, you will most likely see caribou this time of year.  This area is a natural passageway for caribou and the open terrain affords ample hunting opportunity for both man and beast.

Past Engineer Creek campground, we hit a section of talus and spied a large cross fox hunting among the rocks.  The fox ran across the road, only to discover that his hunting had led him between the river and hill, with only the road in between.  Feeling trapped, he didn’t know where to go.  I took just a few photos before we drove on, leaving him ample space to retreat.

Cross fox

As we drew closer to Tombstone, the clouds became heavy, and it began to mist.  By the time we reached North Fork Pass, it began to snow.  While the weather had been almost warm in Inuvik, the Tombstone Range sported a fresh dusting of snow all around. 

We camped in one of the few remaining sites along the river.  With all the rain, the campground was extremely muddy.  Crawling into the back of the Xterra, we worked hard to keep all of us from tracking mud on the bedding.

It rained and sleeted most of the night.  By morning, however, we were basking in sunlight.  We bundled in more layers, well aware that the temperature had dipped below freezing.  Sheets of ice slid from our neighbor's tent.


We weren’t sure how we would be able to keep Rox from being caked in mud if we let her out of the truck.  In a brilliant moment, however, we decided to drive up to the Tombstone Valley overlook to catch the early morning light for photos.  As a bonus, the overlook is heavily graveled, making it a perfect spot to let Rox out. 

While David made coffee off the back of the Xterra, I took photos.  The valley was at its peak of autumn colors and absolutely breathtaking!  This moment was one I will always treasure.  The Dempster holds its coat of many colors for such a short time, rarely a full week.  Already we could see the reds were turning to rust.  We felt tremendously blessed to witness this spectacular scene.

Tombstone Valley, Dempster Highway

Late that morning, we drove back to Klondike Corner to retrieve Oz.  We filled up with gasoline and returned to Tombstone.  For the next two days, we savored the Dempster. 

We drove back towards Engineer Creek to try to photograph more of the colors.  The mountains almost seemed as if they breathed.  The aspen and poplar golds draped the mountains, weaving a tapestry with the deep greens of spruce and rich veins of reds with clusters of orange alders.  We felt drenched in its beauty.

 

Wildlife experts at the visitor’s center were excited to hear about our mountain lion sighting, a rarity in these parts.  However, because we didn’t have a photo, the sighting remains unconfirmed.  We filled out a special animal sighting form for their files.  They will log our list of other animal sightings to help compile records on the movement of animals along the Dempster.

On our last full day, we hiked the Goldensides trail.  Thankful that we had dressed in multiple layers of our heaviest coats and rain gear, we braved the sleet for one last look at Tombstone Valley.  It snowed at the peak.  

Us on the Goldensides Trail

By evening, it was clear enough to hike the Interpretive Trail near the campground and photograph the lichen and the forest floor littered in gold.

Lichen field

Our new Swiss friends joined us at our campfire each evening.  They confided that they had made the decision to try to immigrate to the Yukon.  Our prayers and best wishes remain with Andi and Carol.

As for David and I, we, too, hope to return to the Dempster soon.  It now holds an even more special place in our hearts.  Last year, the Dempster was an adventure and destination to reach.  This year, we feel as if we know it so much more intimately.  We have grown to love its people.  We have seen the diversity of its magnificent animals.  We have witnessed some of its mysteries.  We have truly relished its coat of many colors.

The Bible tells us of a coat of many colors.  Jacob gave his youngest son, Joseph, the beautiful coat as a special blessing to this beloved son.  As we leave the Dempster for a second time, we feel that God has most certainly given this portion of His world a special blessing.  And we know that we have also received a special blessing just for having witnessed it.