The McCarthy Road

Copper River near Chitina, Alaska

The McCarthy Road connects Chitina to McCarthy.  Much of the gravel road lies along the old railroad bed built to support the Kennicott copper mine, the riches copper finds in the world.  When the railroad ceased operation in 1938, the rails and parts were scavenged for other endeavors, but the railroad bed remained.  Chitina is the first town and is located right off the Edgerton Highway and along the Copper River.  McCarthy is located at the end of the road. 

We arrived to find our favorite campsite from our 2010 trip open at the Liberty Falls State Park.  Heavy rains pounded the camper all night.  Thankfully, it had slowed to a drizzle by morning.  We drove into Chitina for a bite to eat at the lodge, made reservations to stay in Denali National Park next Sunday, stopped by the park ranger station for information, then headed onto McCarthy. 

The first part of the McCarthy Road drive takes you along the Copper River and is always interesting.  This braided river is fed from many of the nearby glaciers.  It is where the Copper River salmon are caught.  We saw many fishwheels from the bridge, but few were turning.

While the road is only 79 miles long, it is extremely rough and washboarded.  Along the way, you can see remnants of old railroad trestles.  Crossing the one-lane Kuskulana Bridge always makes my toes curl in my boots.

Old trestle remains along McCarthy Road.  It took eight days in sub-zero temperatures for crews to build this railroad trestle with timber brought in from the northwest.

Kuskulana Bridge

We took our time, stopping to take a few photos of a swan in one of the many ponds along the road.  

We arrived at Base Camp, the campground adjacent to the footbridge that crosses the Kennicott glacier river.  The owner told us that he had 80 acres and just find a spot.  Much of it was extremely rocky and near the fast-running Root glacier river... no place for an aging water dog.  We chose a spot tucked in a small grove of trees.

McCarthy lies 1-1/2 miles beyond the bridge.  The Kennicott copper mine is just shy of five miles from McCarthy.  For $5 (each way), a van will pick you up and drive you into town and/or the mines.

Footbridge to McCarthy

Rapidly flowing river under McCarthy footbridge

With temperatures in the low 50s and a heavy cloud cover, we felt safe enough to leave Roxanne in the truck while David and I walked into McCarthy.  Our plan was for me to walk back to the truck before noon to stay with Roxanne while David went on to take the Kennicott mine tour.

The town of McCarthy has recently acquired quite a reputation because of a “reality” television show (see more in our next post called The Real Scoop).  In actuality, it was hardly a hotbed of contention but more of a typical remote Alaska town.  Everyone we met was extremely friendly.  Only 25 folks live in McCarthy year round.  The remaining 100-150 all support the tourist industry for the Kennicott mine, lodge, and Wrangle-St. Elias National Park.

We stopped and toured the McCarthy museum… a fine museum with much history crammed into its small quarters.  

McCarthy museum

From there, we strolled through the small town, stopping by the Potatohead restaurant to split a spicy breakfast burrito.

Main street in McCarthy

Waders drying from fishing tour

Old McCarthy storefront from the boon days

With the mine tour beginning in less than an hour, David and I went our separate ways.  I spent the afternoon chatting with a dear friend, catching up on blog reports, and taking Roxanne for a stroll.  In our next post, David will be guest commentator on his experience touring the Kennicott mine.

After another huge overnight downpour, we left the following morning with clear skies and a beautiful drive.  We stayed again at Liberty Falls.  Tomorrow we head towards Denali.

Copper River with Drum Mountain