Haida Gwaii, Part Two

Rennel Sound, Graham Island, Haida Gwaii

The beautiful weather that greeted us when we arrived on Haida Gwaii dissolved into six straight days of rain, with only a few sporadic lulls in the deluge each day.

While waiting for the ferry back to Skidegate, the fellow in front of us suggested we go to Rennel Sound on the west side of the island and even told us his best camp site.  He also cautioned us about logging traffic.

We stopped at the Forest Service office to ask for advice.  They suggested we park along the entrance to the road, wait for a logging truck, and follow them up the road.  About fifteen minutes into our wait, a logging truck pulled up beside us and parked.  The fellow walked over to us and asked if we were headed to the Sound.  He suggested that we go ahead of him so he "wouldn't dust us" and that he would call ahead to let others know that we were on our way.  His generous offer certainly made the drive feel much less perilous!

Rennel Sound is on the Pacific side of Graham Island.  We set up camp in misty rain.  Thankfully by evening there was a break in the clouds, and we were able to see a lovely sunset.

Rennel Sound at sunset

A family of eagles with two fledglings fished near us.  Later, folks in our neighboring campsite gutted their freshly-caught fish and tossed the entrails along the beach.  The young eagles were quick to swoop down for a meal.

The next day we hiked to Bonanza and Gregory Beaches.  Each hike led us through dense forests of Sitka Spruce, cedars, and hemlock.  Moss clung to the trees, rocks... everything.  As one local lady told us, "If you stand still too long here, moss will grow on your legs."

Bonanza Beach

Gregory Beach

From Rennel Sound, we drove to the northern tip of the island and camped at Agate Beach.  Whenever the tide was out and the rain slowed, local folks combed the beaches for the agates that washed ashore.  One lady was kind enough to show us what kind of rock to look for.  We ended up with several translucent rocks that seemed to fit her description.

The rain continued.  One night the wind buffeted the camper while rain pelted the top so hard that it sounded like a dozen or more elves were pounding the roof with little hammers.  We finally gave up waiting for the weather to break the next day and, instead, did laundry.  Of course, during the first wash cycle, the rain quit until all the clothes were dry.  Then the rain began again.

We visited a great little museum in Masset, home to most of the European settlers.  The neighboring town, known as Old Masset, is home to many of the indigenous families.  Their streets were lined with totem poles.  

Totem pole in Old Masset

An outcropping of rock named Tow Hill rests on the end of Agate Beach.  We tried for three days to climb it.  Most of the time great clouds circled the top.  Our last day, we finally had a bit of a break in the rain and decided to take a chance.  The hike is short... barely 1.5 miles round trip... but it quickly gains over 450 feet in elevation.  The entire trail built with boardwalks and over 200 stairs.  

Tow Hill trail

With so much rain, we noticed as we hiked through the forest that every dimple or depression in the ground caused puddling and the puddles turned into little streams, then into small creeks.  Water dripped from the trees and shrubs and squished under our feet.  By the time we reached the top, we were in misty rain again.  We did, however, manage to take a photo...

Looking up to Tow Hill, Graham Island

From the top of Tow Hill, Graham Island, looking towards Rose Spit

We left Masset the next morning, camping at the Misty Meadows campground.  After another night of rain, we awoke to clearing skies.  What a welcomed sight!  Unfortunately the wind was far to heavy for us to rent kayaks. Instead we visited the Port Clements museum and drove back to Queen Charlotte.

Haida Gwaii museum entrance

Our last day on the island, we visited the Haida Gwaii museum, took a hike up Spirit Trail, and basked in the sunlight.  Before catching the evening ferry back to Prince Rupert, we sat along the shoreline and watched whales spout near Tree Island.  Our spirits were buoyed by the sunshine.  Our next ferry stop will be Prince Rupert, then on to Ketchikan.  Hopefully the sun will lead us.