The Dempster Deconstructed: Part Four, Happy Trails

Traveling the Dempster

We awoke to misty rain and low clouds.  Again, David and I dropped the camper and headed out to the Northwest Territory border with Morgan snug in her sleeping bag cocoon.  By the time we were near the pass, however, fog engulfed us.  We found Morgan’s bear, but he was barely visible, looking more like a spirit bear walking through the mist, even though he was a mere 50 yards from the road.

Spirit Bear on the Dempster

We drove back to camp.  Everyone agreed that we should break camp sooner rather than later in case it began to rain again.  We drove past the Arctic Circle, past Eagle Plains, and onto Engineer Creek.  We hoped that the young ones could fish, but learned that the water there was sulfur-laden river.  No fish could survive in that water.  We were all disappointed for them.

            Although the clouds were heavy, it was not raining. So we started a campfire and had supper around it.  While we were cleaning up, another camper came by and said there was a brown bear near the campground, just up the road.  The gang piled in one of the rigs to try to find him.  David and I stayed behind since our camper was already popped and set up.

            Below is one of the photos Melanie took of the bear as he waltzed down the road.  I was so happy for everyone.  Seeing a bear up close and personal is an amazing experience.  Later, while everyone was back at camp (and we were in bed), the bear came right by our campsite, walking between us and the river.

            The following morning, we continued our drive back to Tombstone.  We saw a distant moose at Two Moose Lake.  Then we stopped to fish at a site we were told was “guaranteed” to provide fish. Although the young ones tried, the fish weren’t biting.  Bummer!

            With a little time to spare, we stopped at the Tombstone campground and took the short interpretive hike.  Then we set up camp at our favorite open area near the campground. After supper, the young ones and Craig played Frisbee, while the rest of us chatted and readied for bed.  

The clouds were beginning to part a bit.  Occasionally we could see a patch of blue sky above.  This was our last night together.  I knew everyone was hoping to see the northern lights. Prospects, however, were dim.  All we could do was pray that the skies would open up for us.

            About 2:30 in the morning, Scott knocked on our camper door, announcing northern lights.  It was an answered prayer.  David, Scott, Bailey, and I stood outside to watch the show, shivering in the frigid night air.  Melanie and Eric were able to watch from the skylight in their rig as were Jen and Craig. I grabbed my camera, but my battery was spent.  David took this shot.

Northern Lights on the Dempster

            I can't describe the emotion that these Northern Lights evoke in me... and, it seemed, everyone who watched them with us.  I could almost hear from Psalm 19, "The heavens declare the glory of God; and the firmament shows His handiwork."  It was a Holy night, as Melanie later described it… one that I will never forget.  It was a perfect ending to our trip up the Dempster.  It had begun with a rainbow and ended with northern lights.  How incredible is that?

            In the morning, we took group shots at the Tombstone Valley overlook.  Notice Craig's drone is in the photo!  We stopped by the Interpretive Center to return their guides and take advantage of the flush toilets one more time.  Then we were off to the beginning of the Dempster and another set of group photos.

            As quick as that, it was over.  After our goodbyes, the gang would head south back to Whitehorse, return their rigs, then all fly to Los Angeles for the weekend before Scott, Melanie, Eric, Morgan, and Bailey headed back to North Carolina.  At the end of the Dempster, David and I would turn west into Alaska.

            I will miss all of our companions.  It was a unique journey for David and me to have these dear friends travel with us on our favorite road.  I wonder how and if it will change them as much as traveling the Dempster has changed us.  

We were blessed to see Scott fulfill a childhood dream to travel to Inuvik.  We saw Eric's Arctic plunge.  Craig mastered flying his drone.  Did we witness the beginnings of a budding botanist as Morgan read brochures about edible plants and picked berries?  And, perhaps, Bailey spoke for all of us when she announced, "I will never look at a flush toilet the same again!"

It has also been a unique experience to see this road through fresh eyes. Both Jen and Melanie have made this most clear to me.  When Jen arrived, she was use to the LA smog.  Once she hit the Dempster, it was as if a veil had been torn from her eyes.  She kept commenting on how clear, vast, and beautiful everything is out here.  It is so true.  And my dear friend, Melanie… at one point toward the end of our journey, she said, “I always thought I was a beach girl. Now I know I’m a mountain girl.”
So am I, Melanie… so am I.

            Thanks to everyone for the memories.  I will cherish them always.  Now it is on to more adventures for David and me as we travel to Alaska.  As John Muir said, “The mountains are calling, and I must go.”

Nine experienced Dempster travelers