Albatross and a Search for Sunshine

David had circled the Otago peninsula in red on our map, and that was today's destination.  It is home to the only known mainland albatross rookery.  We were fortunate to arrive in time for the 3:30 tour.  We watched a brief video about the albatross, then made the short trek to view several albatross chicks and watch juveniles in practice flights.

Royal albatross chick, Otago, New Zealand

Juvenile albatross, Otago, New Zealand

It was fascinating to learn about these birds.  Like the penguins, their parents teach them nothing about foraging for food.  And unlike the blue penguins who may fledge two sets of two chicks each year, the albatross hatch only one chick once every other year.

Albatross chicks are heavy.  They weigh nearly 14 kilos or 30 pounds, when they fledge.  They empty their stomachs and take a leap of faith.  Some don't make it.  And because their parents teach them nothing, they must learn to fish and survive on their own.  Chick mortality is very high.

If they survive their first flight, all albatross fly to South America to winter.  They follow the trade winds there.  Because they would need to fly against the wind on the way back to their nesting grounds, they circumvent the southern hemisphere to return to their birthing site.  It may take a juvenile five years to find a mate before they lay their first egg.

Black swans

As we left Otago peninsula, we found a flock of black swans.  I had never seen so many gathered together.  They were, indeed, beautiful.

We spent the night at a freedom camp near the Clifden suspension bridge.  The bridge was officially opened in 1889 and was certainly an engineering achievement.

Clifden Suspension Bridge, New Zealand

Our wake up call was a resident rooster.  He began before dawn and stood in front of each rig to announce the day.

Our wake-up call

Further up the road, we found sheep herders and their dog moving sheep across a narrow, one-lane bridge.

Sheepherders in New Zealand

It had begun to rain.  In fact, it had begun to rain in earnest.  We were heading to the west coast and hoping for less traffic and more solitude... fewer pastures and more wildness.  Surely it exists in New Zealand!  And now, we are also hoping for sunshine.