King's Canyon and Watarrka National Park

King's Canyon in Watarrka National Park

For several days Liz and Walter talked about our taking the spectacular King's Canyon Rim Hike, cautioning us that it was difficult.  David and I felt we were ready.  We drove three hours from Uluru to Watarrka National Park and set up camp in the only campground in the area.

I was most excited to learn that dingos roamed the campground at night.  Walter and Liz told us that a dingo had entered their annex during their last trip here and stole a loaf of bread.

The campground posted signs asking visitors not to feed the dingos.  The bathrooms even had gates to keep the dingos out.  As the sun went down, I searched the horizon for movement.

Don't feed the dingos (or dingoes)

Our campground had gates in front of the bathrooms to keep dingos out.

It was still a full moon.  When it rose above the canyon walls, it was breathtaking.  There is something about a desert moon that absolutely hypnotizes.

Full moon at King's Canyon

After dishes were done from supper, Walter suggested we take a stroll and look for dingos.  Both he and David carried torches (aka flashlights).  The moon was so bright, we hardly needed artificial light to find our way along the path leading toward the bush.  Occasionally we would see movement, but the dingos were too swift to follow with a camera.  We walked further along the trail.  A dingo dashed across our path.  I tried desperately to photograph him, but he was too fast and the light too dim.

A few minutes later, we spied the dingo again.  Both David and Walter shone their torches on his body.  By now, I had figured out how to set the camera to take advantage of the moonlight.  The dingo seemed mesmerized by the dual torches.  He stood still just long enough...

Dingo in Watarrka National Park

These nocturnal canine are about the size of our coyotes. This one probably weighed about 30 pounds.  Dingos do not bark, but they can howl like wolves.  Because similar animals are found in Asia, some scientists believe that dingos were once domesticated dogs introduced to Australia about 4,000 years ago.  Dingos are protected in national parks and aboriginal reserves but are considered pests in livestock country.  The species is listed as vulnerable because of hybridization (breeding with domestic dogs).  It is believed that one third of dingos in southeastern Australia are hybridized.

The next morning we arrived at the Rim Walk trailhead early.  The 3.7-mile (six kilometer) hike begins with "Heartattack Hill," over five hundred steps up an uneven stone staircase to the canyon rim.  It was an arduous climb but well worth the effort.

Reaching the top of the staircase to King's Canyon Rim Walk

Liz, David, and Walter on King's Canyon Rim

We passed sandstone formations, including weathered domes called The Lost City.  We saw no wildlife other than birds.

Except for a few microcosms, vegetation was also sparse in this harsh, desert climate.  A lovely bush tomato flower, however, begged to be photographed.

Bush Tomato Flower

Finally we reached an Aboriginal sacred area called the Garden of Eden, an oasis of water and lush plants.  To reach it, we walked steep stairs down to the canyon floor.  We saw a few pools of water and a tree-lined dry stream bed.  In the wet season, a river flows here.  After climbing up the same steep stairs on the other side of the canyon floor, the rim trail continued.

King's Canyon Garden of Eden

Stairs leading up from King's Canyon Garden of Eden

The view from this side of the canyon rim was even more spectacular.  We could clearly see the gorge now.  Its sheer rock wall rose 328 feet (100 meters) above the canyon floor.  Photos simply cannot capture the vastness and beauty of this rock wall.

Breathtaking gorge on King's Canyon Rim Walk

It took us nearly five hours to walk the entire rim trail and return to the parking lot.  What a hike!

That evening, the sun set swiftly.  As it did, it illuminated rich, red colors on the face of the mountain and cast dark shadows in its crevices.  I always marvel at such sights, particularly knowing we had just walked the entire rim of this mountain. It had, indeed, been a glorious day.