The Dempster and Its Coat of Many Colors (Part One)

On Sunday, August 28, we camped at Mile Zero on the Dempster Highway at the Klondike River Lodge, awaking to a very brisk 36 degrees inside the tent.  The beautiful and much-welcomed sunshine soon burned off the fog, leaving us with a perfect day for our return to the Dempster Highway.

With there being only three service stations on the Dempster, we opted to leave Oz at the Klondike corner to conserve gasoline.  Except for a stop at Eagle Plains in both directions, we planned to sleep inside the Xterra while on the Dempster.

When we reached the Tombstone Valley overlook, gray clouds hovered above.  We saw immediately, however, that we were just days ahead of peak colors.  Excited that we may actually hit the valley during autumn’s peak, we determined to go on to Inuvik, figuring they would be at least a week earlier in their coat of many colors.

On our way to the Engineer Creek campground, we spied a small herd of white Dall sheep along the eroded sides of the Olgivie Mountains.   This was our first sighting ever of sheep along the Dempster.

Dall sheep on the Dempster

That evening, we camped at Engineer Creek Campground, last year’s campsite where we saw the silver-banded wolf.  There was so much noise in the campground, however, that he did not appear.  It was a long shot, but certainly would have been a welcomed one!

The next morning, we broke camp early hoping to catch more animal sightings.  We stopped at Elephant Rock, a unique rock configuration on the Dempster, to make coffee.  David caught sight of a bull caribou on the road.  I was only able to pop one rather poor photo before he disappeared into the bush. 

Elephant Rock

Later that day, we spied a black grizzly, grazing berries on the Eagle Plain plateau, along its alpine tundra slopes.  Although he was several hundred yards away, we managed to take a few photos.  He looked fat and healthy and in no distress over the upcoming long winter’s nap.

That evening, we stayed at our favorite oasis, the motel at Eagle Plains.  Eagle Plains was built during the construction of the Dempster Highway as the mid-way point for weary travelers.  It is the first gasoline stop available since leaving the Klondike Loop, some 269 miles to the south.  In addition to a small service station and garage, the motel has 32 rooms and a restaurant. 

It was great to take a shower and settle into our room, which overlooked the west.  It was after ten that evening when I looked out our window.  I called to David that we had to go outside… we were about to have a spectacular sunset.  Within moments, the Dempster’s coat of many colors turned red.

Sunset at Eagle Plains

The next morning, we were off to the Arctic Circle.  Unfortunately, it was raining again.  The mud began to accumulate on the running boards and bumper.  Rox had to do her magic tricks to keep from bringing mud inside the truck. 

Keeping out of the mud

Later that morning, the clouds began to clear.  Again, the Dempster showed the reds.  At the Olgivie-Peel viewpoint, we snapped a few more photos.  By the time we reached the Yukon-Northwest Territories border, however, the fog was so thick that we could only see several car lengths in front of us.

We arrived early afternoon in Fort McPherson and stopped by last year’s campground, hoping it was still open for the season.  We immediately recognized the gentleman who was running the campground from last year.  He had been such a hoot that we were both anxious to give him our regards.

He got out of his truck and rubbed the mud off our license plate with his finger to see where we were from.  “The Lone Star State?”  He said. “How’d ya end up here?

David joked, “We’re lost.”

“You’re in the Arctic, you know,” he replied.

David told him that it was over 100 degrees in Texas. 

The man replied, “Well, that’s a good enough reason to be here.”

Then David told him that we came back this year, hoping that the campground wasn’t closed and explained that we were his last campers last year.  In fact, we set up at our site not knowing the campground was already closed. 

He replied dryly, “Well, you’re a little earlier.  We close in five hours.”

He invited us into the small Gwich'in museum and visitor's center in front of the campground.  We signed the guest register and talked about the caribou.  He said that a herd had come through several weeks earlier and none since.  They had even taken a different path than usual.

Although he invited us to stay, there were issues with the bathhouse.  Also, it was early, around two in the afternoon, so we decided to travel on to Inuvik. 

The ferry crossing across the Mackensie River took longer than usual, so we arrived in Inuvik near seven in the evening.  We set up camp in our favorite Jak campground, only to learn that they, also, were closing the next day and we would have to move.   

Mackensie River Ferry

That night, David awakened me to look at the night sky.  We crawled out of the Xterra, huddled together in the night chill.  For the first time, both of us witnessed the Northern Lights.  Although they were extremely pale, it was an awesome sight and one that will draw us back to Inuvik.

We spent two days in Inuvik, visiting familiar places, including our favorite Café Gallery.  On a hike near Lake Beloit, we spied a pair of Peregrine falcons flying overhead.  These amazing birds migrate over 15,000 miles each year, traveling as far south as Mexico.

Beloit Lake

The next evening, we camped at the Gwich'in Territorial Campground,

nearly 25 miles south of Inuvik.  Fred, a First Nation gentleman invited us to visit his site and a typical Gwich'in tent.  He explained that he was showing teachers in the area some of the old ways. 

We have always found the Gwich’in people to be extremely friendly and hospitable.  Fred was no exception.  He talked with us about the class that he was conducting.  He lamented that all of the elders were dying and that his community was losing their culture.  He said that everything seemed to be changing, including the weather.  While it felt warmer this year, the berries were ripening a full month later than usual. 

Later we spoke with one of the teachers who seemed to discount the entire affair, telling us that Fred was conducting a required “cultural sensitivity” class for the entire school staff.  The words rankled me… why not “cultural appreciation?”  It seemed to confirm Fred’s comments that the old ways were, in fact, dying.  It is a loss for both the First Nation peoples and us.

For more information about the Gwich'in culture, please click here:  http://www.gwichin.ca/TheGwichin/Gwichin.html

Traveling the Haul Road and the Dempster Highways (Part 3)

Please welcome guest commentator, David Staat, as he continues his evaluation of the Dalton (Haul Road) and Dempster Highways...

To me, the Dalton and Dempster each have a different feel to them.  The Dalton feels like a working road for the pipeline and oil fields, especially after leaving Coldfoot.  (This is no surprise because it was built for that reason.)  The Dempster connects communities as well as the oil fields.  Because of this, it feels more hospitable in every way.

On the Dalton, there are very few communities along its route that are what I call "multi dimensional."  Just north of the Yukon River crossing, the Hotspot is an open-air restaurant that serves great hamburgers, a bit of attitude, and has a camp feel to it.

Nolan and Wiseman are very interesting towns to visit and have some very nice B&Bs available (advanced reservations are highly recommended).  For the most part, the inhabitants along the Haul Road live in camps rather than communities, each designed to service the oil fields and pipeline, offering a few hotels, restaurants, and amenities to cater to that business. 

Marion Campground just north of Coldfoot is a well-maintained and beautiful camping area.  The Arctic Circle campground, however, was disappointing.  It felt more like the camp sites were just carved into the area.  It could be, however, that our opinions were swayed because we arrived after a heavy rain and were deluged with mosquitos.

At the end of the Dalton you will find Deadhorse.  Deadhorse is definitely more of a camp than a town, with very few amenities for casual visitors.  There is no camping available, and the motels remain quite full with oil field workers.  We were unable to find accommodations on our arrival (mainly because we had the dog).  Thankfully, folks at the Arctic Caribou Inn allowed us to dine in their cafeteria and spend the night, sleeping in the back of the Xterra, in their parking lot.  This was a good solution for us.

Sightseeing Opportunities

Having worked in industry for 35 years, the technology and challenges of extracting oil from such a harsh environment as the north slope was very interesting to me. I also enjoyed seeing that against the expansive Alaskan beauty.  We were able to take a guided tour of some of the oil field areas around Deadhorse and to the Arctic Ocean (tickets purchased at the Arctic Caribou Inn).

In contrast to the Haul Road, the Dempster feels more like a road that connects multidimensional communities, as well as servicing the Canadian oil fields to the north. There is a strong presence of the First Nation people along the road.  Lots of subsistence hunting and fishing are visible as well as small businesses and services to support the road traffic.

In Fort McPherson there is a small museum and a First Nation company that manufactures canvas articles from tents to hand bags. There are campgrounds strategically places along the 460-mile route, most with hot showers. 

Eagle Plains was built as an oasis for not only truckers, but also the variety of travelers plying the road.  It has a hotel, restaurant, auto shop, and camp ground.  

There are old communities established years before the road was build along the Dempster that served as trading posts. Fort McPherson, Tsligehtchic, and Inuvik are examples. Each offers modest grocery and dry good stores, gas stations, schools, community center, places to eat, and worship. There is more of a variety of small businesses in these communities.  It was a pleasure learning about the history of this area and meeting so many wonderful people.  Additionally, Inuvick offered both boat and air tours highlighting the surrounding wildlife and terrain.  

Road Conditions

Before leaving to travel either of these two roads, it is wise to stop at a visitor or information center to inquire about road conditions, where roadwork is being performed, and any changes in available services.  Often there is information about where animals can be seen, great places to visit, and lodging availability.  It is wise to book your lodging ahead of time and very few take pets.  For the Dalton Highway, Fairbanks is a great place to stop for information.  For the Dempster, it is Dawson City in the Yukon.

There are also a few information centers along both roads worth visiting, especially if you’re looking to see large animals.  These centers can be identified in the Milepost.  If you run into any of the truckers along your trip, they can be a wealth of information also and most of them are willing to share that with you.

Gasoline Considerations

It is important to know how far you can go on a tank of gas.  Along the Dalton Highway, there are only three gas stops from the start to end.  One is at the Yukon River Crossing.  The second is in Coldfoot.   Coldfoot is half way up the Dalton, about 185 miles from Livengood, which is the last gas stop out of Fairbanks before you enter the Dalton.  The other stop is in Deadhorse. 

Coldfoot is 240 miles from Deadhorse (at the end).  Deadhorse also has a place to get gas.  Be aware that the gas pump is unmanned but will take credit cards. You also need to be sure to place the spill catchers under where you are fueling your car to catch any gasoline spill. It is required and part of the environmental protection program.

On the Dempster there is a gas stop just before you get on the highway. The next station is in Eagle Plains, 230 miles from the junction.  Eagle Plains also has a maintenance shop with a mechanic on duty.  He can do minor vehicle repair, although parts are limited and may need to be trucked in for you.  It is 226 miles from Eagle Plains to Inuvik.  There are gas stops in Fort McPherson, which is 115 miles north of Eagle Plains, and in Inuvik, which is another 115 miles north of there.

Some of the articles recommended that we take extra gas, and there were some folks that we saw along the road that did.  Some take extra gas for cost reasons (because it is expensive on the Dempster) and some for insurance.  We had the Milepost that gave us specific information about distances between gas stops, and we had a good understanding of our vehicle’s driving distant on a tank of gas, so we didn’t take extra gas.  However, we did make it a practice to stop at every gas stop along both roads and fill up, even if we just added a ¼ of a tank.

The road surface on both roads varies.  The beginning and ending of each has some hard surface, either paved or chip seal, which makes for a relative smooth ride reaching speeds up to 50 miles an hour but this was rare and short lived. The rest of the road is gravel which turns to slippery mud when it is wet. I found it helpful to slow down and take time when the road was wet.  Occasionally there were the remains of vehicles along each road, evidence of how treacherous these roads can be, especially going up through the mountains.

When crossing Atigun Pass on the Dalton, the guard rails are doubled, one behind the other for extra protection from sliding off the road.  There are the remains of an 18-wheeler down a steep embankment on the south approach to Atigun pass, a monument to how trecherous this stretch of road can be.  

On the Dempster, about 15 miles out of Eagle Plains on our way back, it was rainy and very slippery. I had the Xterra in 4WD and dropped our speed to about 10 miles an hour. A Subaru that left before we did from Eagle Plains ended up in the ditch.  Apparently the driver was going too fast for conditions.   Luckily, a trucker stopped and was pulling him out when we passed.

The condition of these roads changes quickly.  A dry gravel stretch can turn into rough road with deep holes.  Hitting these holes at high speed could do significant damage. I also heard a story about a traveler who broke down along the Dalton who paid $10,000 for a tow back to Fairbanks.  I can’t stress enough how careful one needs to be while driving these roads. Take your time, pull over for the trucks, and drive wisely, especially on the wet roads.

A Final Note

When you come to the end of either of these roads, you will probably need to wash you vehicle.  For the Daulton, Fairbanks offers a wide verity of car wash options.  For the Dempster, there are a few places. One is at the gas station at the beginning of the road.  There is also a car wash in Inuvik. Remember to clean the excess mud from the wheels (both inside and outside), as it will cause wheel vibration as chunks come off on the highway.

If you would like to read about our experience on the Haul Road and Dempster, please check our posts from July 21 "The Haul Road" and September 4 "Savoring the Dempster."

Savoring the Dempster

After taking the Haul Road as far north as one can drive in Alaska, we were drawn to also take the Dempster.  This 456-mile-long gravel road runs north from Dawson City in the Yukon to Inuvick in Canada’s Northwest Territory. 

It was so rainy during our trip up the Haul Road that we were hardly able to enjoy our surroundings or even know much about them.  We expected barrenness on the Dempster, particularly above the Arctic Circle.  To our complete surprise, however, we encountered some of the most beautiful scenery of our entire trip.  Every turn seemed to offer a glimpse of God and His creation that, quite simply, amazed us.   

We began our trip up the Dempster with scattered sunshine.  As the day wore on, however, it began to mist, finally turning into a downpour.  We sludged along deep channels of mud, dodging potholes.

We spent our first night at the Engineer Creek campground.  After so much rain, the entire area was layered in black mud and puddles.  We found the driest site available and popped the camper open.  The rig was absolutely filthy.  Every time we touched it, we became caked in mud ourselves.  Our supper was ready-to-eat cheese, crackers, and other snacks.  We piled in the camper to stay as dry and clean as possible. 

As we chatted about the day, I spied movement in the alders behind our picnic bench.  Both David and I stood to see what it might be and were shocked to discover it was an enormous wolf.  The wolf ambled lightly among the aspens directly behind us.
His markings were unlike any I had ever seen, with silver bands layered across his back.  Grabbing the camera, I began snapping photos through the screen.  At one point, he looked directly at me, not with angst or anger.  In fact, as our eyes met, his seemed to soften.  It felt almost unbelievable to watch this remarkable animal walk less than 30 feet from the back of the camper.  Splendid God. 

The next morning, we awoke to sunshine and left for Eagle Plains, our next stop on the Dempster.  Just above the Arctic Circle, we saw a dozen or more ravens darting over what looked like a huge boulder about 200 yards off the road.  We slowed and discovered that it was a large grizzly feeding in the tall grass, most likely off a downed caribou.
     The ravens tormented him… opportunists looking for an easy meal.  The bear would huff and run at them, scattering the birds for a short time.  Occasionally he would tip his nose to the wind, catching a scent.  At one point, he sat on his haunches.  Later, he rose on his back legs.  In amazement, we watched his antics for nearly a half hour.  Generous God.

We spent the night in Eagle Plains, opting for a cozy room and hot shower rather than another wet night in the camper.  After we had cleaned up, we took a drive to see what tomorrow's road had in store.  The sun came out from its hiding and reflected through the autumn leaves, enhancing their colors to an incomparable brilliance.  We strolled over a rocky hill to see the splendid horizon.  It felt wonderful to share this moment with a warm hand pressed in mine while a cold nose tipped the other.  Giving God.

We left for Fort McPherson the following morning.  Riding along Olgivie Ridge, we crossed into the Northwest Territory.  We stopped to see several herds of caribou across the valley.  Further up the road, a pickup passed us.  Hunters got out and headed towards two beautiful caribou bucks near a rock outcropping.  As I was setting up the tripod at the border crossing, rifle shots rang, and my heart stopped.  I closed my eyes, not willing to see one of these creatures downed… not today.  David scanned for the caribou with his binoculars.  We saw them both trot away.  I breathed a sigh of relief.  Merciful God. 

Around the next ridge, we saw another small herd of caribou, most still in velvet.

We crossed the cable ferry to Fort McPherson, a small community that sprung from a trading post during the gold rush between miners and First Nation inhabitants.  Today Fort McPherson offers a few vital services to Dempster travelers.  The majority in the community lives off the land.  We spoke with an elderly gentleman curious about our Texas tags.  He was the kind of man that beckoned with a wealth of stories and experiences.  Both David and I wanted to know more.  Too soon, we parted.  We set up camp at a territorial campground just outside Fort McPherson and, to our joy, discovered that the camp had hot showers.

The following day, another ferry crossing and a two-hour drive brought us to Inuvick, the furtherest north that one can drive in Canada until the ice roads are made to Tuk in January.  We found another great territorial campground with showers outside of town and settled in to enjoy Inuvick, its famous Igloo Catholic Church, and the First Nation Gwich-in culture.

We soon discovered that Inuvick, like all of the tranquil communities along the Dempster, lives to a special rhythm.  There’s no rush to begin work early.  Living off the land takes skills taught by one generation to another.  It requires knowing when caribou migrate and geese fly, what they eat, and where they live.  Lush forests, marshland, rivers, and streams provide nearly everything folks need here.  Abundant God.

We spent two nights visiting and hiking around Inuvick in misty rain with a few bursts of sunlight.  After one shower, a double rainbow appeared over our campsite.  Loving God.

Along our drive back to Eagle Plains, we watched a grizzly bear ravage berries along the roadside.  For nearly an hour, we hop scotched with four other cars to take photos of this magnificent creature.  He doused himself in a large puddle, and then strolled along beside us, almost as if on parade.  We were mesmerized.  Amazing God.

It rained nearly the entire way back to Tombstone Campground.  Occasionally, a bit of blue would appear in the sky.  Each time it did, the autumn colors would become brilliant once more.  By the time we set camp, the sun was out and the horizon became alive with color.  Glorious God.

We sit in a motel room this evening, savoring our time on the Dempster.  A simple but critical mechanical issue caused us to cut our trip short by two days.  It’s okay… we both know that we will return to the Dempster, God willing.  We have been smitten by it’s beauty and abundance and can’t wait to experience it again.
     The Haul Road is a working road, built specifically to bring goods to the Alaskan oil fields in Prudhoe Bay.  For that reason, people are discouraged from traveling it.  The Dempster connects people and communities.  As a result, Canada encourages folks to travel and enjoy it and the wonder of its animals and natural beauty... here at the top of the world.

We did not see the caribou migration that we expected.  Instead, our Surprising God showed us even better things.  We saw autumn in all of its splendor amidst beautiful mountain ranges and valleys, we met warm and caring people, we saw caribou and waterfowl gathering, and amazing animals in their natural habitat.
     Thank You, God.

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