The Dempster Deconstructed: Part Four, Happy Trails

Traveling the Dempster

We awoke to misty rain and low clouds.  Again, David and I dropped the camper and headed out to the Northwest Territory border with Morgan snug in her sleeping bag cocoon.  By the time we were near the pass, however, fog engulfed us.  We found Morgan’s bear, but he was barely visible, looking more like a spirit bear walking through the mist, even though he was a mere 50 yards from the road.

Spirit Bear on the Dempster

We drove back to camp.  Everyone agreed that we should break camp sooner rather than later in case it began to rain again.  We drove past the Arctic Circle, past Eagle Plains, and onto Engineer Creek.  We hoped that the young ones could fish, but learned that the water there was sulfur-laden river.  No fish could survive in that water.  We were all disappointed for them.

            Although the clouds were heavy, it was not raining. So we started a campfire and had supper around it.  While we were cleaning up, another camper came by and said there was a brown bear near the campground, just up the road.  The gang piled in one of the rigs to try to find him.  David and I stayed behind since our camper was already popped and set up.

            Below is one of the photos Melanie took of the bear as he waltzed down the road.  I was so happy for everyone.  Seeing a bear up close and personal is an amazing experience.  Later, while everyone was back at camp (and we were in bed), the bear came right by our campsite, walking between us and the river.

            The following morning, we continued our drive back to Tombstone.  We saw a distant moose at Two Moose Lake.  Then we stopped to fish at a site we were told was “guaranteed” to provide fish. Although the young ones tried, the fish weren’t biting.  Bummer!

            With a little time to spare, we stopped at the Tombstone campground and took the short interpretive hike.  Then we set up camp at our favorite open area near the campground. After supper, the young ones and Craig played Frisbee, while the rest of us chatted and readied for bed.  

The clouds were beginning to part a bit.  Occasionally we could see a patch of blue sky above.  This was our last night together.  I knew everyone was hoping to see the northern lights. Prospects, however, were dim.  All we could do was pray that the skies would open up for us.

            About 2:30 in the morning, Scott knocked on our camper door, announcing northern lights.  It was an answered prayer.  David, Scott, Bailey, and I stood outside to watch the show, shivering in the frigid night air.  Melanie and Eric were able to watch from the skylight in their rig as were Jen and Craig. I grabbed my camera, but my battery was spent.  David took this shot.

Northern Lights on the Dempster

            I can't describe the emotion that these Northern Lights evoke in me... and, it seemed, everyone who watched them with us.  I could almost hear from Psalm 19, "The heavens declare the glory of God; and the firmament shows His handiwork."  It was a Holy night, as Melanie later described it… one that I will never forget.  It was a perfect ending to our trip up the Dempster.  It had begun with a rainbow and ended with northern lights.  How incredible is that?

            In the morning, we took group shots at the Tombstone Valley overlook.  Notice Craig's drone is in the photo!  We stopped by the Interpretive Center to return their guides and take advantage of the flush toilets one more time.  Then we were off to the beginning of the Dempster and another set of group photos.

            As quick as that, it was over.  After our goodbyes, the gang would head south back to Whitehorse, return their rigs, then all fly to Los Angeles for the weekend before Scott, Melanie, Eric, Morgan, and Bailey headed back to North Carolina.  At the end of the Dempster, David and I would turn west into Alaska.

            I will miss all of our companions.  It was a unique journey for David and me to have these dear friends travel with us on our favorite road.  I wonder how and if it will change them as much as traveling the Dempster has changed us.  

We were blessed to see Scott fulfill a childhood dream to travel to Inuvik.  We saw Eric's Arctic plunge.  Craig mastered flying his drone.  Did we witness the beginnings of a budding botanist as Morgan read brochures about edible plants and picked berries?  And, perhaps, Bailey spoke for all of us when she announced, "I will never look at a flush toilet the same again!"

It has also been a unique experience to see this road through fresh eyes. Both Jen and Melanie have made this most clear to me.  When Jen arrived, she was use to the LA smog.  Once she hit the Dempster, it was as if a veil had been torn from her eyes.  She kept commenting on how clear, vast, and beautiful everything is out here.  It is so true.  And my dear friend, Melanie… at one point toward the end of our journey, she said, “I always thought I was a beach girl. Now I know I’m a mountain girl.”
So am I, Melanie… so am I.

            Thanks to everyone for the memories.  I will cherish them always.  Now it is on to more adventures for David and me as we travel to Alaska.  As John Muir said, “The mountains are calling, and I must go.”

Nine experienced Dempster travelers

The Dempster Deconstructed: Part Three, Back to the Border

We now had a dilemma on our hands.  Rumors were flying that the new rainfall would close the Peel River crossing again.  We also heard there had been a significant snowfall at the Northwest Territory/Yukon border during the night Tuesday.  David and I had been caught in a snowstorm there in 2015.  The pass was slick with black ice under the snow and mud.

We decided it was best to go ahead and move below the river crossings so we wouldn't get caught.  We already had four hard days of hard driving, and we weren't looking forward to another one.  The good news was, however, that it would free up a full day at Rock River.  We could spend two nights at the campground there.  The kiddos could fish, and we could hunt for animals.  The border had been too foggy, rainy, and cold on our way up to even stop.  Now we could really enjoy the area.

With the decision made, we broke camp and went into Inuvik for breakfast at the Mackenzie Grill.  While part of the group went to the post office, Morgan and I dashed across the street to take a photo of  Inuvik's famous Igloo Church.

Igloo Church, Inuvik

On our way back to the ferry crossings, we stopped at the Mackenzie Delta viewpoint.  The three young people and I took a hike while everyone else hobnobbed about more plans.  While on our hike, we went left, while everyone else went right.  It took us a few minutes to hook back up together, but it was great to be out hiking again.

The river crossings were much calmer this time.  I think everyone breathed a sigh of relief as we made it back across the Peel River.  After we crossed the delta, the mountains came back into view, and we could see the snow-dusted tops.  The road was good and solid, so we had no worries at all.

At the border crossing between the Yukon and Northwest Territories, the wind was blowing gale force again.  At least we were in sunshine!  We all jumped out to take the obligatory group photo that we had missed on the way up.  Melanie, Morgan, and I ran across the road to get a photo of them in front of the Yukon sign.  Wow!  Was that wind cold!

We pulled into the viewpoint just south of the border and saw distant caribou through binoculars.  Hunting season was in full force, so the caribou were keeping their distance from the road.  Scott and Eric had a confirmed grizzly bear sighting, although it was so far off in the distance the rest of us could hardly see him.  We planned on returning in the morning to see what other animals might be out and about.

We set up camp at Rock River, one of our favorite campgrounds on the Dempster.  It was late, however, and our favorite spot was taken.  We found another site, ate supper, and soon crashed for the evening.

The next morning, David and I went out early to search for animals.  Before we left, we found our favorite campsite empty, so we quickly paid for it and hung our "this site is occupied" sign out.  Then, with Morgan still snuggled in her sleeping bag in the back seat, we drove up to the viewpoint to see what might be out there.  Morgan dismally said we probably wouldn't see any bears because she was a jinx.  We soon found her fears to be totally false.

We found a big brown bear walking the slope, several hundred yards off the road.  Morgan could only say, "Awesome!"  She named him Buddy.  We went back to the campground to tell the others.  Morgan stayed behind for breakfast with her folks.

Bailey decided to come with us.  We found Buddy again.  Bailey said exactly what her sister had, "Awesome!"  She quickly determined that Buddy was much too gentle a name for this big boy.

Soon the other two rigs joined us.  They began watching Buddy while David and I moved on to scope out other possible sightings.  Not far up the road, we found a blonde bear followed by what was probably her three-year-old cub.  The blonde bear began feasting on the remains of a caribou.  We could see her yank and pull at the bare bones of the leg and knee joint.  The younger bear moved close a few times to share the meal.  The mother must have fussed, because the younger one got no closer than what you see in the photo below.  We watched the two bears for nearly an hour.

That evening was splendid.  The two girls fished... unfortunately without even a bite.  Eric chopped wood... a favorite pastime of his.  We all sat by the fire together that evening.

It was a splendid end to a wonderful day.  We lamented that we only had two nights left on the Dempster before our adventure together would be over.  Time was slipping by so fast!

The Dempster Deconstructed: Part Two, Tuktoyaktuk

Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean

We have traveled the Dempster Highway six times to Inuvik.   The 458-mile road was completed in  1978.  As of November 2017, an additional 90-mile portion of the road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk (or Tuk for short), was open.  David and I always get excited about driving a new road!

We left Jak Campground and stopped by the Inuvik Visitors Center where we were able to introduce the young ones to a few of the Arctic's most famous animals.

Bailey and Morgan with a musk ox

Eric and a caribou

After toping off the fuel tanks, we headed to. Tuk.  The skies were heavy and grey.  We often had misty rain and intermittent sleet.  We were uncertain how the road would be but found it solid and easily traveled.  To be sure, there were areas of washboard and soggy gravel, but, for the most part, the roadbed was solid.  We drove past wetlands and thousands of shallow lakes.  Only a few dwarf trees dotted the barren but beautiful landscape.

Along the road to Tuk

Eric was riding with us.  We spoke often about his plan to dive into the Arctic Ocean.  At one point he he asked if the water temperature would be in the seventies.  I said it would probably be in the forties or less.  

Eric is an excellent basketball player.  David asked him if he had ever had an ice bath after an injury.  Eric said, “Will it be that cold?

When we arrived in Tuk, we stopped at the welcome sign to take a group photo.  The gale-force wind surprised us.  I had to push against the truck door with all my might just to open it.  All of us were wearing as many layers of clothing as we could.  I had on five.  

The severe cold was unexpected.  David talked to Eric about the wind chill factor and how much colder it would be because of it.  Eric said, “I can’t back out now.  I’ve already told all my friends I would do it.”

We drove straight to the ocean.  When we arrived, our truck’s external temperature gauge registered 39 degrees. A local lady told us that the water temperature was around 35 degrees.

Eric quickly changed into his swim trunks and made his way down the steps to the Arctic Ocean. He glanced back to look at all of us huddled along the shore, then he boldly walked into the churning grey water.  When he was waist deep, he turned again to face us, raised his arms, and fell backwards into the bitterly cold water, submerging entirely.  

He came up gasping.  Melanie and Morgan were waiting for him on shore.  Wrapped in towels, Eric ran, as best he could, to the camper.  Later he told us that he couldn't feel his feet and legs when he walked up the stairs.

I suppose it was adrenaline that allowed him to dry off then pose... still in his swimsuit and in 39 degree weather... in front of the Arctic Circle sign.  Eric had done it... he dove into the Arctic Ocean.  It was an experience I will never forget.  Our hats off to you, Eric!

While Eric changed into warm clothes, the rest of the group dangled various body parts into the Arctic.  Morgan went feet first.  Bailey used her hands.

We tried to find a place to eat lunch but there was none.  It was so cold and the wind so fierce, we decided to drive back to Inuvik and Jak Campground for the night.

As we left, we took a few photos of the area.  Tuk is known for its pingos... ice hills that are covered in earth.  In fact, Tuk is the Pingo National Landmark, protecting eight pingos.

Tuktoyaktuk pingo

On the way home, we found many berry pickers along the road.  Finally, Morgan could stand it no more.  We stopped for her to pick cloud berries... known as knuckles to the locals.  They told us that the extreme rain this summer had made it perfect for growing cloud berries.  We all enjoyed a few tasty morsels.

Morgan picking cloud berries

What a day!  We saw an amazing young man exhibit tremendous determination and courage.  We traveled a new road.  We ate luscious cloud berries.  What will tomorrow's journey on the Dempster bring?

The Dempster Deconstructed, Part One

Tombstone Valley, Dempster Highway, Yukon

We truly wondered if this trip was even going to happen.  So many obstacles seemed insurmountable.  Between the nine of us, we had a new dream job (would the new employers allow such an extended vacation after only weeks of employment?), an unexpected family member's death and funeral, an accident that landed one in the hospital, three young people starting school August 27, and, perhaps most fundamental, no available reservations for truck campers in Whitehorse.  Then, miraculously, everything fell into place in mid-July, down to two truck camper rentals becoming available for ten days.  David and I hurriedly prepared the camper, and we were off for the Dempster.  We were so late in leaving this year that we are doing this trip in reverse... we're going to Alaska AFTER the Dempster (which is normally our last hurrah on the road).

After several plane delays, Melanie, Scott, Eric, Morgan, Bailey, Jen, and Craig, arrived in Whitehorse late Thursday evening.  David and I met them at the motel the following morning.  While we were making hugs around, seventeen-year-old Eric announced that he planned to dive into Arctic Ocean.  Wow!  Would he really do it?  He certainly seemed determined.

We shopped for groceries, fishing gear, and licenses before picking up the truck campers from Canadream at three that afternoon.  The checkout was suppose to be 45 minutes to an hour.  We finally had both rigs by eight that evening.  We decided to camp in Whitehorse for the night and get a fresh start in the morning.

Meet the crew... from left to right...
Craig, Jen, Bailey, Morgan, Scott, Melanie, Eric, David, and  me

After a later start than expected, we made Tombstone Valley on the Dempster around seven in the evening... after taking obligatory Dempster Highway photos, of course.  

Just after we set up camp, Melanie and I were standing on a ridge, overlooking our campers when I saw it.  I grabbed Melanie by the shoulders and spun her around to see the most glorious of rainbows.  She and I both look at rainbows as omens that something wonderful is in store.  It was affirmation that the miraculous chain of events that brought us to this exact spot were no accident.

Rainbow on the Dempster

We were still adjusting how this would all work.  First, how would we handle the sleeping arrangements?  The rented truck campers only had one queen bed and a dinette that could be made into a bed, but it was quite short.  Eric is over six foot tall.  We had three young people to consider.  It took us a few nights, but it all worked out.  Thankfully, Eric sleeps curled up and Morgan was quite accustomed to sleeping in the back of our truck as she had done last year.  Each rig ended up with a young one.    

Next, we had to determine how to cook for ten people (we counted Eric twice, considering his age!).  I was quite comfortable cooking my one-pot meals for David and me.  Trying to figure out how to do it for ten, however, was something to consider.  Rather than using our little backpacking cooking gear, thankfully the rigs came with Dutch ovens.  Melanie and Jen helped me to calculate the increased volume needed for each recipe.  And we discovered that what took five minutes to cook for two often took twenty or thirty minutes to warm for ten, but it all worked out.  At least nobody starved!

In a stroke of genius, Scott had brought walkie-talkies for each rig, so we were able to communicate while on the road.  Each rig had their own handle... the Rocket Scientists (yes... they really are!), Crappy Tires (unfortunately, also true), and our rig was dubbed Squad Leader.

In fact, it seemed everyone had their own areas of expertise on this trip.  Craig, for example, brought a drone to photograph overhead.  I had never seen one before.  It had an amazing photographic quality... the sound was definitely something to get use to, but the capabilities were phenomenal.  (If possible, I'll try to upload a few of Craig's drone movies at a later date.)

Our first full day on the Dempster, we were greeted with with a sunny morning.  We retraced our steps to the Tombstone Valley overlook to take photos of the amazing view.

As the day wore on, however, the weather began to deteriorate.  We stopped at the Arctic Circle for a group photo before traveling on to Olgivie Ridge.  

When we reached Eagle Plains, however, we were met with shocking news.  The Peel River crossing had been shut down since Thursday due to an enormous amount of rain the week before.  The Peel crossing is a cable ferry.  The water was just too high and flowing too fast that it made it dangerous to load and off-load vehicles.  Now what?  After all this time, money, and effort, would we only be able to travel less than half the Dempster?  We decided to camp at Eagle River and let the kiddos do some fishing.

It rained hard all night.  Our campsite turned into a mud hole, and everything was covered in the sticky goo.  We drove back to Eagle Plains in the morning for information.  They said the Peel should open at noon.  Then a young man told me there were rumors that they planned to close the ferry again at two.  We decided to rush to make the crossing.

Driving turned treacherous as the road became more and more wet.  We saw a motorhome almost spin out in front of us, going too fast in an area of thick mud.  We slogged along and were so glad we all had four-wheel drive.

When we arrived at the Peel River, the cable ferry was, in fact, in operation.  The landing on both sides had washed away during the storm.  Workers had managed to reinforce what remained.  The landings were soggy and rutted, but they worked.  We had never seen the river this high.  The waves churned and crashed across the bow of the ferry as we went across.  

It continued raining steadily.  We had no idea if the new rainfall would close the Peel crossing again.  It was a concern... we had rental rigs that needed to be returned on a specific date, young people that needed to start school, and folks with jobs awaiting them on their scheduled return.  We took the chance and made the crossing.

Peel Ferry Crossing, Dempster Highway, Yukon

When we arrived in Fort McPherson, we stopped to talk with Robert at the visitor center.  He told us it had been quite exciting when the Peel crossing had closed.  They had 48 cars waiting on one side and over 50 on the other.  The ferry had worked through the night to clear the backlog.  

It was still raining steadily.  We had planned to spend the night at Fort McPherson's campground, but it was only three o'clock in the afternoon.  We could hardly imagine spending the remaining hours until bedtime trapped inside the separate campers.  (They were too small for the group to all fit in one.) We were also trying to make up a day of travel, since we had lost at least half of one due to the delay in getting the rigs.  We decided to continue on to Inuvik.  

The Mackenzie Ferry crossing across the Mackenzie River and Arctic Red River was also high.  But this ferry is motor driven, so we had no problems getting across it.

Mackenzie River Crossing, Dempster Highway, Yukon

We arrived in Jak Campground, just outside of Inuvik about 7:30 that evening.  With the chill and rain, the sight of hot showers and flush toilets delighted everyone.  

We had no idea what awaited us on the rest of this journey.  Tomorrow we planned to drive to Tuk and maybe camp there overnight.  Eric still spoke of diving into the Arctic Ocean.  We were both excited and concerned.  We also had many questions about the overall journey.  If the rain continued, would we be able to make it back over the ferry crossings?  If not, what would we do?

As David and I crawled into bed, we wondered what would happen next... and smiled.  One of the reasons we love the Dempster so much is because each time we travel the road, it is different.  Each time has its own adventure.  What would the Dempster would throw at us this time?

Close Encounters in Haines

Seduction Bay, Haines, Alaska

We drove to Watson Lake to ask about the Campbell Highway.  We had heard from several folks that the road was closed.  The lady at the Visitor Center confirmed that the portion closest to Watson Lake was, indeed, closed due to fire.  We could only drive the back half of the road.  

We were disappointed and ultimately decided against driving only the back section of the Campbell. Both David and I were already having headaches from the smoke and knew that inhaling more would not help.  We also still had a week before we met the gang in Whitehorse for the Dempster.  The decision was easy:  on to Haines.

We set up camp at Chilkat Lake, our favorite spot to view bears.  The park service has a weir set up along the Chilkat River to count salmon coming upstream.  The bears fish the weir.  If salmon are running, we can almost always guarantee seeing bears.

Fishing weir across Chilkat River

We were up early Sunday morning to attend worship at the Haines Presbyterian Church.  It was a glorious, sunny day.  As soon as the weir was in sight, we saw a small gathering of folks… always a good sign of a bear sighting.  We quickly pulled the truck over to see what was happening.  We saw a sow with three cubs close to the road.  The mother had just caught a salmon and had dropped it for the cubs to share.  

The cubs were deep in the grass and foliage, but we could hear them squabble over the meal.  Their mother had already wandered further upstream to land another fish for her hungry brood.

Two of the cubs scampered after her while the third continued enjoying his meal.  His mother landed a second salmon and hauled it into the woods.  The closest two cubs quickly followed her.  

Brown bear cub looking for mother

The third suddenly realized he was alone.  I caught a quick photo of him peering over the grass to see where everyone went. Finally he, too, began to run. Unfortunately, he had no idea where his mother and siblings were.  He turned toward us and began growling and running.  It would have been comical to watch him had we known where his very protective mother was.

Brown bear cub

 I was standing right next to the park ranger as the cub ran toward us.  She began yelling at the cub and waving her arms.  Suddenly, the cub’s mother came out of the woods and onto the road. The situation had turned serious. Thankfully, the cub turned about when he heard his mother.  They both ran into the woods, joining the other two cubs.  What a way to start the day!

After church, we took a hike along Seduction Bay.  That evening, we were back at the weir, hoping to see more bears.  While we found plenty of fishermen on the river, we saw no bears.  So I photographed an eagle’s nest and the man who counts salmon at the weir.

Fishing the Chilkat River

Eagle's nest in Haines, Alaska

Counting salmon on weir in Haines, Alaska

The following day, we only spied a distant bear grazing tall grass next to the bay.  We learned from another photographer, however, that the park ranger certainly had a different experience.  A negligent fisherman had left his gear under the bridge.  The ranger found a bear trying to reach the gear and followed him to steer the bear away.  While she was making noises, trying to scare him off, a fisherman yelled at her to turn around.  A second bear was right behind her.  The ranger had to use her “bear banger” to scare both bears away.  A bear banger is a pistol with all the noise but no bullets.  The next day, she told me that after her experience, she had gone home and poured herself a very large glass of whiskey.

Tuesday we awoke to a morning of pouring rain.  We decided to take the time for laundry and showers.  After a delicious lunch of fresh halibut fish and chips at the Bamboo Room, we drove once again to our favorite spot to wait for the bears.  Soon a large, cinnamon-colored bear ventured onto the weir.  We watched him for some time before he began walking upstream on the other side of the river.  A small group of us followed him.  I thought David was right behind me, but unbeknownst to me, he had gone back to the truck.  After a few minutes of following the cinnamon bear, I turned around and went back to find him.

Cinnamon-colored brown bear in Haines, Alaska

David was right where I left him, taking photos of yet another bear on the weir.  She was the grown daughter of the bear with triplets that we had seen on Sunday.  She walked the weir, trying to reach into the water to snag a salmon.  When that failed, she poked all around the catch box, trying to find a way to catch one of the trapped fish.  Still no luck.  She walked across the entire weir and disappeared into the grass next to the road.

Brown bear fishing weir in Haines, Alaska

Again, I was standing next to the park ranger.  The bear suddenly appeared on the road and began walking towards us.  Thinking we were done photographing, David had gone back to the truck to put up the tripod.  We were separated by about 15 feet when the bear walked even closer.

The park ranger raised her voice and told all of us to move closer against the edge of the mountainside. “The bear has the right of way,” she said.

Brown bear walking the road in Haines, Alaska

The bear continued walking towards us with the river to her right and us to her left.  The park ranger told everyone that could to get in their cars.  The rest of us hugged the mountain.  We could tell the bear was becoming more and more uncomfortable.  Still she walked ever closer.  Then she walked directly in front of me.

Suddenly, the bear turned toward me and bolted. She split the difference between David and me, scrambling up the steep mountainside and disappearing into the woods. It was amazing!  I doubt that either of us were more than ten feet from her. Talk about a close encounter!  I don’t know how close the ranger was to using her bear banger again, but I’m certain she thought she might need to. Thankfully all ended well.

The next morning, it was time to leave Haines.  For some reason, I hardly ever get any great photos here… but we certainly do have great experiences!  Now we head back to Whitehorse to meet the gang and go up the Dempster.  We are certain to find yet more wonderful memories there.