Bella Coola

God often presents detours in our lives.  We discovered a beautiful diversion in Bella Coola. 

While camping at Lac La Hache, a couple saw our Texas license plates and stopped to chat.  They were headed toward Bella Coola.  After their explanation of the area, we decided that it was a trip that we should also make.

Bella Coola sits at the western end of the Chilcotin Highway in British Columbia.  This strip of fertile land called the Bella Coola valley is nestled between the ocean and BC’s central coastal mountains.  The population is a mix of native Nuxalk First Nation peoples and Norwegian immigrants (population 2,200).

Because the only way in and out of Bella Coola was by ferry, for years requests were made for the government to fulfill their promise to build a road from Williams Lake into Bella Coola.  After years of being denied and in the spirit of Canadian independence, volunteers finally took matters into their own hands and bulldozed the Freedom Road along Tsitsutl Peak in the 1950s. 

The Freedom Road is definitely a driving challenge.  It is six hours of rugged road from Williams Lake.  The major portion of the road is paved, however, the most challenging section runs from Anahim Lake to Firvale, along Tsitsutl Peak.  Affectionately known as “the Hill,” this portion of the road is gravel, reaching grades of 14 percent in some sections, cresting at Hackman Pass (5,000 feet) and descending to 40 feet at Bella Coola. 

I drove the “down” section, keeping the truck in low gear to keep from overheating the brakes on the steep descent.  It felt great to be four-wheeling again. 

Once in Bella Coola, we visited a few sites and ended up at the visitor’s center.  Hoping to take the ferry to Prince Rupert, we were disappointed to learn that ferry fees would cost over $800.  So we decided that going back up “the Hill,” would be the most cost effective measure.  (With gas prices nearing $5 a gallon in Canada, we’re definitely feeling the pinch!)

We spent the night at Eagle Lodge campground and hiked the Saloompt Forest Trail, an old growth forest area outside of Bella Coola the next morning.

Oz, looking rather small against the mountains in Bella Coola

We decided to drive up to the M Gurr Lake Trail.  While we knew that the trail was only accessible by a 4x4 road, we were well into our excursion when we discovered that it was a 17 kilometer 4x4 trail (about 10 miles).  David was at the wheel and although the road narrowed so closely in some places that the brush cleaned off the sides of the Xterra, we had a blast.  It took us an hour to reach the trailhead.  As you can see by the photos, the view was certainly worth the climb!

Although it was late afternoon when we arrived at the trailhead, we tried hiking to the lake.  The mosquitoes, however, were absolutely dreadful!  We were so engulfed by mosquitoes that we decided that discretion was the better part of valor and turned back after about thirty minutes.  (They were so thick that we were covering our noses to keep from inhaling them.  One actually became lodged in my ear!)

Once back “home” in Oz, we took advantage of our campground's fantastic outdoor shower with views up the mountains.  After a refreshing bath and supper on the camp stove, we finally dove into the camper because of the wind chill.  (Yes, to all our sweltering friends, we DO feel guilty wearing sweatshirts!)

This morning, we broke camp.  On our way up “the Hill,” we saw a large brown bear too far in the distance to photograph.  With only a few butterfly and ground squirrel photographs to show after the tidal pools, I admit to having an itchy trigger finger.

However, I definitely feel that God is priming me for our next big “shoot.”  I can hardly wait to see what Papa has in store for us next!

Juneau on Dwellable