Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Acadia National Park


We were extremely fortunate to get a campsite for the night since we had no reservation.  Acadia National Park is a prime destination for the entire eastern seaboard, particularly between July 4th and late August.  Many of the folks that we have encountered on this trip have told us that this area is a “must see,” so see, we must!

The area was originally called Desert Island and became a national park in 1919.  Known for its mountains and rugged coastline, Acadia is a lovely destination.  In some areas, waves crash to the craggy shoreline while quiet inlets offer kayakers and boaters more tranquil places to explore.

Lobster prices have plummeted on the island.  We have had lobster picnics on the Seawall every day since our arrival.  Both Beal’s Lobster Pier and Sawyer’s Lobster Pound have been fantastic.  Sawyer’s offers whole, cooked 1-lb lobster at $4.50 each every day between 2:30 and 4:30.  Needless to say, we have enjoyed every mouthful!

Beal's Lobster Pier
We hiked the Ship Harbor trail during low tide on Saturday, with the promise of many tidal pools.  We found the pools full of a different kind of life… no sea stars or urchins… but lots of sea plants, snails, and clam-like creatures.  We also made a huge mistake, allowing Roxanne to have her first dip in the ocean.  We chose poorly… she bounded into a stagnant pool.  By the time we reached the campground, she stank so badly that we had to give her a bath.
Ship Harbor
On Sunday, we changed from the large rig section of the campground to a more primitive area.  Because of the crowds, we had to wait in the "first come, first serve" line, beginning at 7 am.  Thankfully, we were able to obtain a new site by 9:30 am.  Although it took us over two hours to obtain the new campsite, we met several new friends, including a man who had spent his childhood here and gave us many fascinating details about the area. 

We also learned about a place that was just up the road with free internet service, coffee, and popovers.  Of course, we took advantage of the opportunity and discovered Common Good at the old Seawall Motel.  Common Good is a grassroots effort begun in 2009 by Chef Bill Morrison.  Recognizing the need, he began taking his soups and salads to the elderly and others.  As the effort grew, others came alongside Morrison and began the Common Good Soup Kitchen.  The Seawall Motel offered their dining facilities to serve the growing numbers of needy.  Since 2009 Common Good has served approximately 8,000 patrons and over 25,000 bowls of soup during the hard winter months when jobs are few and the need is greatest.

To support their soup kitchen, the group offers free internet access, freshly baked popovers, and coffee to summer island visitors.  Open seven days a week from 7:30 to 11:30 am, they ask only for donations, and to date, those donations have provided sufficient funding to support their winter needs.  As their reach expands, however, they are running on a shoestring budget.  For more information, we invite you to visit their website at www.commongoodsoupkitchen.org.

The weathermen promised that Sunday's fog would lift by noon.  They were wrong.  We spent the entire day engulfed in a cloud.  We traversed the south side of the island and hiked the Wonderland trail, a lovely hike terminating on a rocky shore.

Fog at Wonderland
David and Rox on the Wonderland shoreline.
We returned to camp and set up at our new site.  We were surprised to discover that it is next to a small cemetery for the Doliver family.  The etched headstones are very old and difficult to read.  The majority of the family appears to have been buried in the late 1860s.  David and I discussed what life would have been like here in the 1860… it is a fascinating tribute to the history of the island.

Campsite A16 in the Seawall Campground, Acadia National Park
Doliver Family Cemetery, Acadia National Park
John Dolliver's headstone from 1861
 We awoke Monday morning to bright sunshine.  After a stop at Common Goods, we took the park loop around the island.  We traveled up to Cadillac Mountain, the highest point on the eastern seaboard.  While it was too crowded at the top to find a parking spot, we found a pull off nearby.  Roxanne enjoyed a brief Golden Retriever convention while I took photos of the beautiful vistas. 

David and Rox on Cadillac Mountain
Golden Retriever Convention
View of Bar Harbor from Cadillac Mountain 
From there, we visited the Bass Harbor lighthouse.  And finally, after another lobster picnic on the seawall, we returned to camp.

Bass Harbor Lighthouse
We have found Acadia to be intriguing. It offers hiking, biking, and boating.  After so many years of human habitation, however, there are few animals left on the island.   We met a couple that had been camping here for the past ten days.  The gentleman told us that it has taken him this long to figure out what Acadia is about.  Avid birders, they had hoped to find a multitude of different birds, much like I had hoped to find tidal pools as vivid as those on the Washington’s Olympic peninsula.  Neither of us found what we were searching for.  He told us that he had finally figured out that Acadia was all about the views.  Most folks come here simply to enjoy the beauty, relax, and partake of the fabulous seafood.
Acadia National Park
So after enjoying what this lovely area has to offer, tomorrow we break camp to head farther east, hoping to enter Canada in the next day or so… we’ll keep you posted!




2 comments:

  1. Thanks for sharing your experience at Seawall campground and Common Good at Seawall Motel. I'm heading up there early next week, without reservations, and then on to Cobscook Bay State Campground, with reservations. Try to camp at Cobscook Bay, off the Bay of Fundy, near the border of Canada. You'll likely love that, too! That's where my Heron photo was taken.

    Every year I head up to Acadia and bicycle the 28 mile park loop. Awesome! I've always wanted to stay at Seawall and this year I plan to be there at 7 a.m. for their "first come first serve" sites. I now believe a great experience will be waiting.

    Glad I found your blog. I'll start following your adventures. What fun!!

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  2. Thanks so much for writing. The Acadia National Park is, indeed, beautiful. And we certainly admire anyone who can bike ride the entire park loop! Wow! Just going up Cadillac Mountain seems impossible!

    We also stayed at Cobscook Bay last night in site 26. It was just what we like... secluded and large... very lovely. Unfortunately, we missed seeing wildlife, but your heron photo gives an idea what we might see if we had stayed longer.

    We met a man from Washington State while in our first campsite in Acadia (Loop C with the big rigs). He, too, told of the loss of the love of his life. David and I were blessed to celebrate our 36th anniversary this summer. We know that this gentleman and you are brave reminders that David and I should make it a point every day to cherish each other for whatever time we have left together on this planet.

    Know that our hearts and prayers are with you as you continue your adventures until that precious reunion "In the Sweet By and By." God bless you.. and we're wishing you a wonderful trip to Acadia and beyond!

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