Drama, Heroism, & Heartbreak on the Pacific Crest Trail

It has been called an "extraordinary" Pacific storm.  Because of it, Seattle shattered rainfall records with historic rainfall last Saturday and Sunday.  As this mega-Pacific front stalled over the Cascades, a fierce winter storm engulfed the mountains with hurricane force winds, sleet, and snow.  

Our three Pacific Crest Trail hikers were caught in the middle of whiteout conditions near Mt. Rainier.  Winds blew so strongly while hiking a precarious ridge trail, our niece Kate was knocked off her feet.  Soon, the trail became life-threatening as the snow continued to drift.  It became impossible to follow.  Kate was showing signs of hypothermia, not able to feel her hands and feet.   The storm forced our three hikers to backtrack down the mountain.  Further down the trail, they stumbled on two other PCT hikers.  The five began hiking back to the last road they had crossed.

We learned all of this Sunday.  David's sister called in the early afternoon to tell us that she had received four successive distress signals from Kate's SpotTracker.  As Roberta and George began to contact Washington State Police, the Pacific Crest Trail overseers, and forest officials, we prayed for safety for the group.  We felt particularly helpless… in David’s and my attempt to outrun the rain, we were now just outside Kalispell, Montana... not close enough to offer immediate help.  

God took complete control, however, and answered our prayers. Within two hours, Roberta called to say that hunters found the hikers, led them to their camp, fed them hot dogs and hot chocolate, and took the hikers to a hotel in Packwood, Washington.  Kate called from there to say that she was safe.

Stories from this rare September storm are just emerging from the trail.   Most of the hikers were ill prepared for such a vicious storm so early in the year.  One of Kate's fellow hikers lost his footing and fell 40 foot before managing to stop.  The depth of snow and harrowing experience has caused one young man to leave just 160 miles short of the Canadian border. 

While most PCT hikers determined that they must abandon their quest to complete the trail, some purchased heavy winter gear and continued.  One young lady who left the day after Kate and friends were rescued has still not been found.  Five hikers south of Kate’s location were in hip-deep snow and had to be rescued by chopper… as did their rescuers who had set out after them on foot.  The Pacific Crest Trail Association has warned hikers not to continue unless they are equipped with heavy winter gear, including snowshoes.  A snow slide has taken out Highway 12 near Packwood.

Our Kate determined to continue with her goal so close in sight.  She found a group wanting also to complete the trail.  They hiked onward while she equipped herself with extra winter gear.  After one day, however, the group determined that they could not make it.  They were hiking in and sleeping on hip-deep snow and were barely making ten miles per day.  With over 400 miles to the Canadian border, their odds of making their goal were diminishing with every step.

Kate has hiked over 2,200 miles of the 2,650 Pacific Crest Trail.  She was hiking for a purpose.  Leaving the trail must be one of the biggest challenges of her young life.  She has come so far and endured so much over the past five months.  Now, because of this freak winter storm and more snow forecasted, she has had to abandon her quest.

David and I have been in similar situations while backpacking and know too well the dangers that they have faced.  We, too, have turned back down a mountain.  I can’t, however, imagine how it must be to turn from such a tremendous goal of hiking the entire Pacific Crest Trail, particularly when Kate was so very close to the end.  What emotions and disappointment must be swirling around her and her friends?

Of course, we feel that they have chosen wisely... the Pacific Crest will be there another day.  Their lives are much more important than a quest.  We commend you, Kate, for your courage, determination, and your cause.  This time an early winter won.  Others have gone before you.  It took Perry three times to reach the north pole.  Adventure into the unknown is always a risk… having the courage to face it, endure it, and know when to draw the line are the hallmarks of a true explorer. 

We want you to know, Kate, that we love you dearly and will be anxiously awaiting your completion of the trail during your next adventure.  May God bless you, your fellow PCT hikers, and, of course, the hunters who found you.

If you would like to commend Kate, please visit her blog at www.hikingtogetkidsoutside.org. 

Glacier National Park

We have been trying to outrun this mega Pacific storm for six days now.  We continued heading west to Glacier National Park only to have rain pummel the camper again all of last night.

Because the Going to the Sun road is permanently closed for the season because of snow and ice, we took the 2-1/2 drive around the park to East Glacier through sleet and snow flurries, hoping to find animals to photograph.  When we arrived at the park gate, the attendant told us that while the park would remain open, the campground had closed as of noon today.  Many Glaciers campground is suppose to be open all year round... a park attendant on the west side had told us so just yesterday.  When we asked why, she told us that it was because of the sequester.  Well, that made no sense, but it certainly did change our plans.

It was nearly three in the afternoon.  With all of the commercial campgrounds in the area closed for the season, we knew we had a drive before us.  We quickly drove through the park, hoping to find animals.  We felt blessed to find the same bear as two years before grazing berries again on the hillside.  While the sun was in the wrong position for a great shot, I was happy to get this one...

We sit in another motel tonight in Browning, Montana, unable to find a campground.  As the front settles in over Glacier National Park, temperatures have hovered in the mid to low 30s all day.  The wind chill has easily dipped into the 20s this evening.  We have been driving in snow flurries off and on all day but are grateful to have finally found signs of clearing.  The surrounding mountains are covered in snow.

Tomorrow we will head south and, hopefully, find better and warmer weather.  We plan to return to Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons.  The animals should be more settled now.  Perhaps I will even find my elusive moose shot… hope springs eternal!

Happy News!!!

For those of you who were concerned (as we were) about the roundup and sale of the Theodore Roosevelt National Park horses, we have fantastic news.  It was a remarkable sale and none of the horses were lost to slaughter houses.  For an update, please check out this news report:

http://bismarcktribune.com/news/state-and-regional/wild-horse-auction-goes-off-without-a-hitch/article_f962ddaa-28d1-11e3-a184-001a4bcf887a.html

For me, it is proof positive that God had His Hand and Mercy in this.  The horses are His...

Hast thou given the horse strength?  Hast thou clothed his neck with thunder?  Job 39:19

Looking for Sunshine

Our original intent was to leave Washington and head to one of our favorite destinations:  Jasper in Alberta, Canada.  Our last check of the weather, however, has thrown us into a tizzy.  There are predictions of snow showers for Jasper for the next four days.  As you can well imagine, snow is not our favorite state of weather, especially while camping.

Rain began in earnest last night on the Olympic peninsula.  Nothing is dry... our towels, our camper, our clothes, or us.  If we stay any longer, we're going to start growing moss!

We broke camp in the rain and decided to drive due east to outrun the storm.  We arrived at Pothole State Park in Idaho under overcast but dry clouds.  By morning, however, the rain caught up with us.  The sound of curlews and geese heading southward reminded us that south might also be our best destination.

We drove all day in rain today.  With David suffering from lack of football, my needing a good internet connection, and the rain continuing, we have opted for a night at the Meandering Moose motel in Sandpoint, Idaho, hoping to dry out at least a bit.  It is a welcomed night, particularly as the rain continues to fall.  We wonder how our PCT hikers are faring and send our prayers for their safety and protection.

We have come up with a revised plan.  Tomorrow we head for Glacier National Park.  Weather is suppose to be better there, but who knows... this cold front is absolutely huge.  Depending on what we find, we will sooner or later head south, maybe back through Yellowstone and Glacier, down through Utah, and who knows from there.  We are looking for high, dry, and cool... and invite you to join us.

Raindrops Keep Falling on our Heads

Sunset over Quinalt Lake, Washington

The Olympic rainforest is compelling with its flora and fauna... its creatures large and small.  Still, we know that more rain is coming... it is predicted over the next four days.  We have, however, relished our two days of sunshine.

Quinalt Rainforest Trail

Quinalt spider

Quinalt slug

Quinalt bull elk and cows

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Quinalt.  On a hike, we witnessed the richness of this amazing temperate rainforest ecosystem.  Our last trip around our "wildlife loop," we saw two and heard a third bull elk vying for a harem.  Our final evening here, David built a campfire while I captured a beautiful sunset over the lake.

The Olympic peninsula is an intriguing, beautiful place; however, we are now on a quest for a dryer climate... but where?

God's Sense of Humor

There are many who wonder if God has a sense of humor.  I can tell you with certainty that He does.

I came to the Olympic Peninsula to take photos of tidal pools.  It was a calculated attempt on my part to take photos of something that I thought I knew would be here (when will I learn?  See the August 11, 2012, post).  Unfortunately, I did not even know that I had to calculate the moon's waxing and waning into my equation.  Obviously, the tides did not cooperate, and my attempt to photograph tidal pool sea creatures failed miserably.

God, however, had something other... better... greater.... than I had ever imagined in store for me (isn't this the exact opposite of last year when I was looking for big and found only tiny?).  While I was thinking small creatures like sea stars and anemones, He was thinking BIG.  To my amazement, He offered deer, elk, and otter.

We found a doe grazing and a herd of elk with a large bull and a half dozen cows near Washington's largest spruce.

We drove the rugged road to Graves Creek Campground, enjoying the moss-ladened old growth trees, then turned around, and headed back to camp.  Could I dare say that I don't know what caused me to turn my eyes to the river at that precise moment?  Absolutely not...  but turn, I did, and caught motion in the river out of the corner of my eye.

"Otter!!! " I told David.

He stopped, and I slipped out of the truck.  Where is my tripod when I need it?  Regardless, here's a quick (and somewhat shaky) video of what we witnessed... a pair of otter landing a fish and enjoying their supper.  How many people get to see something like this???

God continues to surprise and amaze me... and I am completely blessed in the transaction.  Thank you, Papa!!!

River otter at Quinalt

Bless the Lord, O my soul:  and all that is within me, bless His Holy Name...  (Psalms 103)

Olympic Peninsula on Dwellable

On to the Olympics (Peninsula)!!!

Quinalt Lake, Washington

The weather forecast promised sunshine on the Olympic peninsula beginning late Wednesday through Friday.  Still hoping to catch those elusive tidal pools, we headed to one of our favorite campgrounds, Willaby Campground on Quinalt Lake.  We were even more happy to find campsite #14 ready for our arrival.

We stopped at the ranger station for tidal information.  To our chagrin, the ranger told us that because the moon is waning, tides would be much less dramatic than usual.  Still, with the sun shining, we left camp with excitement the next morning, heading to Beach #4 and Ruby Beach to shoot tidal pools.

We arrived at Beach #4 at lowest tide.  I took amazing photos at this site in 2011.  Not today.  The lowest tide revealed only a fragment of the wonderful world between land and sea.  Roxanne, however, made the steep half-mile trail up and back wonderfully well.

On to Ruby Beach... and again, only a small colony of sea anemones were visible... and I had to dash between waves to get them.  Heavy sigh...

Our Living Planet

Mouth of the Columbia River

We found hot and limitless showers at Fort Stevens campground.  What a treat!  Rain, however, continued to come in waves.  In between, we were able to enjoy some of the sights.

At Fort Stevens, the Columbia River and the Pacific ocean converge.  Roxanne took a swim in the chilly water.

We also found the remains of the Peter Iredale shipwreck...

The Peter Iredale shipwreck at Fort Stevens State Park, Oregon

With rain continuing intermittently, we decided to head further north up Highway 101.  To our surprise, we discovered a turnoff to the Mount St. Helen's visitor center.  Since our new motto is NOT to pass up interesting places, we made a U-turn.

The lower visitor's center would only be open for another hour, but we stopped and enjoyed a movie and learned about the 1980 eruption.  We also discovered that the national park visitor's center would be open until 6 p.m.  While it was another 47 miles up the road, we decided that we had nothing but time!

While storm clouds continued to gather and wane, we drove to the Mount St. Helen's Visitor Center.

View from Mount St. Helen's Visitor Center

Had the view been clear, the sign shows what we would have seen... a volcano with the entire north side blown out.  It must have been something... God rearranging this space and place.  We read about harrowing escapes, rescues, and tragic endings, as well as how the valley has rerouted and recovered.  In the space of a moment, this valley was changed forever.  As the visitor center movie reminded us, we are on a living planet... and what a planet it is!!!

We decided to drive to the old growth forest at Lewis and Clark State Park in Washington.  Again, we arrived during the dark and rain and determined that we simply had to plan a bit better in the future!

Portland on Dwellable

On to the Oregon Coast

The Wachats, Oregon coastline

After leaving our Pacific Crest Trail hikers, we headed back over the bridge into Oregon and started toward the coast.  We stopped for a bit of re-provisioning of our own on the outskirts of Portland before heading further west.

Unfortunately, the further west we drove, the heavier the clouds became.  As dusk was settling, it began to rain.  As it became darker and darker out, we abandoned our original campsite destination for one about an hour's drive closer.

Rain began in earnest.  The road had many twists and turns.  I was driving while David navigated.  Out of the corner of my eye, I saw the form of a deer and knew she was going to cross onto the highway in front of me.  It was as if I felt a Hand on my heart.  I came to a full stop rather than just slowing down.  What a blessing that turned out to be... the doe crossed in front of the truck.  If I had simply slowed to swerve around her, I would have hit her fawn squarely in the side.  He trotted about six to eight feet behind her.  We watched to make certain that they both crossed to the other side of the road before continuing onward, ever grateful that there was also no one behind me.

We set our sites for St. Mary's Peak campground.  Later we realized that a name like that should have clued us that we would be going up a mountainside!  We drove up and up in the pitch black, twisting and turning so much that I could barely go more than 10-15 miles per hour.  It took us over a half hour to make the trek to the top.  The entire time we didn't know where we were or when we would arrive.  Only when we passed Parker Falls, we were able to determine that the mountain was to our right rather than a cliff.  I hugged that mountain as closely as I could.  We determined that we would camp up at the very first pullout that we found.

Finally we saw an arrow.  David got out with the flashlight to determine where this side road might lead.  Thankfully, it was the campground.  We were delighted.  We had the campground to ourselves, so chose a level site, set up in the rain, and dove for the inside of the camper.  It felt like we were the last people on earth.

The next morning while I was making coffee, the ranger drove by, giving us a friendly warning for not paying before camping.  He was very understanding of our late and wet arrival.  Later, while I was dressing, a mini van drove in, followed by an entire Boy Scout troop!  Obviously, we were far from the last folks on the planet.  The troop had come up for a "search and rescue" training session.  We visited for a while, then said our adieu.

The park ranger said that on a sunny day, St. Mary's Peak gives a glorious view of most of the major mountains in the area.  In the daylight, we drove to the peak, but the cloud cover was too dense to see much of anything.

Our plan was to drive to Depoe Bay, a place where I took fabulous tidal pool photos some 10-12 years ago.  I was hoping to do the same this trip.

We visited Wachats' Devil's Churn and its Spouting Horn before turning north to Otter Rock.  A spouting horn is when water and air are pushed by waves into an open cave.  While I missed some of the more spectacular eruptions, here's a short video to give you an idea of what we saw:

With intermittent rain seeming to follow us, we found Otter Rock and my tidal pools.  It was high tide, so David and I took a stroll down to the beach to see if it was something that Roxanne could traverse.  All looked good.  We set up camp at Beverly Beach Campground and set the alarm for 7 a.m. to catch the tides at their lowest.

Unfortunately, rain engulfed us that night.  We awoke to fierce winds, angry waves, and heavy rain.  Disappointed but knowing that Washington's coast held tidal pools, we left Oregon and traveled Highway 101 north.  On the advice of the St. Mary's Peak ranger, we had great breakfast at DePoe Bay's Sea Hag.

As we drove further, the skies lightened for a bit.  David discovered a great stop-over for us... the largest Sitka Spruce in Oregon.  Since it was not too far off our route, we decided to stop.  This is what we found:

Largest Sitka Spruce in Oregon

To the dismay of all, in 2007 hurricane force winds toppled the top of the Sitka Spruce about 80 feet from the top along a lightening scar.  This photo shows all that remains.

Happily, however, a man interested in our camper stopped to talk with us.  He suggested that we head for Fort Stevens State Park.

Depoe Bay on Dwellable

Kate and the Pacific Crest Trail

Kate at www.hikingtogetkidsoutside.org

Meet Kate, our wonderful niece, who is hiking the entire 2,650 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail.  She began her hike on May 8 at the California/Mexico border.  Since then, she has hiked 2,155 miles.  We were blessed and privileged to watch her hike from Oregon into Washington.  With less than 500 miles to go, she is on track to complete her journey by October 15.

Kate is hiking with a purpose.  She hopes to build awareness for the need to keep children and youth exploring and experiencing the natural world.  She has put together a non-profit specifically for the hike and is asking for donations that will be split evenly between two non-profits dedicated to helping children directly experience nature.  One hundred percent of donations will be split between Canyonlands Field Institute and City Kids Wilderness Project.  (To learn more about Kate's project, please visit www.hikingtogetkidsoutside.org).  Kate has worked for both of these groups as an outdoor specialist in the past, including leading river tours for families.  For more information about Kate, her cause, and her hike, just click here:  http://www.moabtimes.com/view/full_story/23822765/article-Moab-woman-hikes-2-650-miles-to-raise-money-for-groups-that-help-kids-experience-nature?instance=secondary_one_leftcolumn

Kate and her two hiking companions arrived at Cascade Locks at about 9:30 p.m., Thursday evening, after 36 miles of hiking... their longest single day hike ever.  They had one request:  pizza and beer to celebrate.  We arrived at our rendezvous spot with three enormous, hot pizzas on my lap (the park host said they were small... but they definitely were anything but).  Our hikers were ecstatic!

Kate, Emily, and Ian

We took them back to our campground for the night.  In between whispered conversations about the trail and some of their experiences, they munched on two of the pizzas and filled up with much-needed beer carbs.  Emily and Ian, Kate's current hiking companions, are both New Hampshire natives.  They began their thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) about the same time as Kate and have criss-crossed paths several times.  Both are wonderful young folks... like Kate, very special.

We awoke the next morning to a tiny tent city behind our camper.  For breakfast, the group wanted nothing more than to finish the remaining pizza!

PCT tent city

We spent the morning and much of the afternoon chatting and watching each of the hikers meticulously repack their backpacks.  Ian and Emily had both received re-provision packages at the post office from home.  Kate was expecting her next package further up the trail.  The hikers usually carry sufficient food for seven days to reduce their overall pack weight.  As an example, Kate's pack weighs about 48 pounds when loaded with necessary gear, six days of rations, and one liter of water.  In addition, she carries a tent, sleeping bag, cooking gear, clothing, and essentials.

Kate's pack and gear

It was fascinating to hear about their hiking experiences.  While David and I backpacked for many years, we never undertook such an enormous goal.  I think that our most ambitious hike was 22 miles over four days!  The gear has definitely changed over the years.  We used aluminum frame packs rather than the current internal compression packs... and everything was heavier!  However, it was great to be able to share some of our past experiences and a few food ideas.

It was also fascinating to hear how different thru-hiking is than backpacking.  With backpacking, you normally hike to a specific place, normally some wonderful vista.  With thru-hiking, the whole idea is to make time, so those vistas are often bypassed.  We also learned a bit about the PCT culture.  As an example, there are "trail angels" along the trail... people who live nearby who help the PCT hikers with everything from food, to shelter, to rides to and from the post office or hitch town.  We also learned that everyone had a nickname... Cold Water, Giggles, Shark Rider, Banjo, and Cougar Bait were a few of the PCT hikers that we met.  Each nickname is given because of a personality trait or unusual situation that someone observed.

The Pacific Crest Trail Association reports that only 600-800 thru-hikers begin the trail each season, with approximately 60 percent succeeding in their quest.  Kate will be part of the Class of 2013.  She will finish the hike at the U.S.—Canadian border, north of Seattle and near the Manning Provincial Park in British Columbia.  

Too soon, it was time for the group to head out.  The hikers are ever concerned about the arrival of an early winter and snow during this last portion of the PCT.  After tanking them up on burger, fries, and ice cream at the Eastwind Drive-In, we dropped the hikers off at the PCT trail where we had rendezvoused just yesterday.  The trail would now take them across the Bridge of the Gods between Oregon and Washington.  

Cascade Locks' Eastwind Drive-In has HUGE ice cream cones.. this is a medium!!!

David, Rox, and I took the easy route and drove across.  The trio hiked... and will continue to do so for another 500 miles. 

Hiking the PCT across the Bridge of the Gods

Emily, Ian, and Kate at the Bridge of the Gods

We took a few photos of Kate and crew crossing into Washington, had hugs around, and watched as they headed off on the final leg of their journey.  

Kate at the Washington border

Godspeed, PCT hikers!

Good luck and Godspeed, Kate, Emily, and Ian!