The Haul Road, Redefined

Dalton Highway, Alaska

This was our third trip up the Haul Road.  We came for one reason... to photograph musk ox.

The Haul Road, also called the Dalton Highway, is a mostly gravel, 414-mile working road for the Alaska oil pipeline. The road traverses over the Brooks Range, through Arctic Tundra, and ends at the Arctic Ocean on Prudhoe Bay.  The pipeline begins at the top of the Dalton Highway along Prudhoe Bay and ends 800 miles south in Valdez, Alaska.  Because Prudhoe Bay is only ice free six weeks each year, almost all goods are transported by tractor/trailer rigs, giving the road its famous name... the Haul Road.

At the end of the Haul Road, you will find Deadhorse.  Deadhorse isn't really a town... it is more of a camp for workers.  Most of the people here work several weeks on, then return to the homes for an equal amount of time, before returning to Deadhorse.  The official year-round population is 25.  However, approximately 2,000-3,000 non-permanent residents support the oil field operations.  Visitors are tolerated rather than welcome.  Every time we have been to Deadhorse, it has been cold, overcast, and dreary.

But this area does have a herd of musk ox.  We saw them on our first trip in 2010 and at a distance in 2015.  Musk ox were hunted to extinction in Alaska.  In 1930, a herd of 34 musk ox were brought from Greenland to Nunivak Island.  In 1966 the herd had grown enough that a group of musk ox from Nunivak Island were transferred to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge near Prudhoe Bay.

Musk ox are interesting creatures.  They are members of the goat family and stand four to five feet tall.  They are herbivores, eating mostly moss and lichens.  Their long, shaggy hair protects them from brutal Arctic winters.  Their outer coat protects their thick undercoat of qiviut, which insulates them from the cold.  When threatened, musk ox form a defensive circle with horns outward, placing calves in the middle.  Unfortunately, this tactic made them easy targets for hunters.

We had never seen any four-legged creature on the Haul Road except musk ox.  Hoping to get closer to photograph the herd, we left Fairbanks on a drizzly morning.  We wondered if the gray skies would follow us the entire trip as it had every other trip.  We slogged through the beginning of the Haul Road.  They had received so much rain over the past several weeks that pot holes had developed, some so large they could sheer a tire.  At least we were set to have a good burger at the famous Hot Spot Cafe.  You can imagine our disappointment when we discovered it was closed.  The large sign draped across the gate read, "Closed for Remodeling."  Bummer!

We spent the first night at our favorite Marion Creek Campground.  The following morning, we drove towards Atigun Pass and saw something we had never seen before on the Haul Road... sunshine!

It felt magical.  I know it sounds silly, but we have NEVER seen sunshine on the Dalton Highway. And best yet, the beautiful day seemed to bring the animals out.  We saw not one but TWO brown bears!  One was not far from the road, digging tubers.

Construction stalled us for a while, but after the pilot car weaved its way through the rollers and earth movers, we spied two musk ox along the road.  They looked to be old fellows.  One was missing his right horn.  They stood placidly by as I took photos, drenched in sunlight and surrounded in fall colors.  Beautiful!

The only problem was my camera.  I have had it two summers, but I still feel a novice using it.  For some reason all my photos became severely overexposed.  Thank heavens I was able to touch some up a bit with editing software.  Unfortunately, however, the overexposure lost the crisp edges photographers desire.  Heavy sigh...

Further up the road, we saw the main herd of musk ox.  They were not close enough to take good photos, so we decided to drive into Deadhorse to fill up with gasoline.  The closer we got to Deadhorse, however, the sun vanished and thick clouds covered the horizon.  By the time we reached the gas station, it was 35 degrees, misty rain, with a fierce wind.

We drove back to the musk ox.  They were getting closer but were still too far away for a good shot.  We decided to camp near them.  We found a pull off suitable for the night.  I unclipped the front clasps to pop the top on the camper.  David unclipped the back two, opened the door, and... whoosh!  The wind was so strong that it actually popped the camper top all by itself!

Thankfully, no harm was done.  I tried to open the vent so I could light the backpacking stove to fix supper.  David finally had to turn the truck around so that it faced the wind, otherwise we would have lost the vent cover.

By morning, the wind had died down substantially.  Under overcast skies, we found the herd of musk ox.  They were closer to the road but not as close as I had hoped.  We must have watched them for over an hour.  The big bull ran rough-shod over the small herd of about 16.  We saw a mother and baby, the calf fuzzy in its coat of qiviut.  What a wonderful opportunity.

We spent that night at the Arctic Circle campground.  It had fallen into disrepair since our last visit in 2010 and had not been maintained for some time.  We finally found a spot that wasn't too muddy.

The following morning, we saw nearly a dozen hunters in vehicles lining the road, searching for caribou.  Our understanding is that you can only hunt with bow and arrow near the pipeline.  Rifles are prohibited within five miles either side of it... for good reason.

We were ecstatic...  bears, musk ox, caribou.  We had never seen so much wildlife on the Haul Road.  My photos weren't great, but the experience was simply amazing.  Then, our eyes caught movement on the side of the road.  I pulled to a stop so we could figure out what it was.  We couldn't believe our eyes... three fox pups were playing outside their den.  We watched them romp and roll and stalk each other for nearly an hour.  They were so much fun!

As we approached Atigun Pass, we spied a bull moose in the distance.  We simply couldn't believe the continued blessings!

And like our Dempster experience, we saw a rainbow.  The Dalton Highway had shown us a side of itself that completely redefines it for us.  I can't wait to come back again!

Rainbow on the Dalton Highway

The Village Bakery

We again welcome guest commentator David Staat who will offer some insights into a few of our favorite food stops in Alaska...

Village Bakery, Haines Junction, Yukon

One of our favorite stops coming from or going to Haines, Alaska, is the Village Bakery in Haines Junction, Yukon.  Haines Junction is at the intersection of the Alaska Highway and the Haines Highway. 

The Village Bakery is a small, local establishment, specializing in fresh, homemade, bakes goods. In addition to the cinnamon sticky buns, bear claws, fruit torts, muffins, cakes, turnovers, and cookies (I take copious notes at these places), they also make sandwiches, fresh baked bred, soups, and quiches.

Their herb, cheese and jalapeño bread is outstanding...we bought two loaves...of course, the bread was for the friends we were meeting in Whitehorse. 

They also have a coffee bar with four featured coffees to go with all the goodies. The building is rather quaint, with a wood exterior, built among the aspen,  and a large porch area. There is limited seating indoor but lots outside to enjoy the natural surroundings. It is a great place to stop, stretch you legs, rest, have a fine lunch, and reflect on your trip through some of the most beautiful country in Canada. 

We rate Village Bakery a five star.

Village Bakery, Haines Junction, Yukon

The Bamboo Room

Bamboo Room, Haines, Alaska

We welcome guest commentator David Staat who will offer some insights into a few of our favorite food stops in Alaska...

Not only do people have stories, so do some of the buildings. For example there is the Bamboo Room and Pioneer Bar & Grill, in Haines, Alaska. The two establishments are housed in the same building, shown below, and they serve some of the best halibut fish and chips I have ever tasted.  We ate there three times this trip. Much of what is written below is taken directly from the Bamboo Room menu with a few of my own embellishments.

As the story goes, the building was built in the 1890’s and was once the Hotel DeFrance where the proprietor specialized in French food. Alaskan frontier and French food, how does that figure? 

In the 1930’s, then owner, Lou LaMoore, operated the place as a popular restaurant, dance hall, brothel and boot-leg joint. Lou’s Pioneer Beer Parlor traded in it’s own currency, called “Bingles.” 

Below is a letter, written by one of Lou’s lovers, that was found in the attic of the building. 

“You have a chance to make a few dollars, but Lou, do not turn tricks any more. It is ruining your health. If it did not, you would not have suffered as much when you had your teeth removed.”

Marty and Helen Tengs purchased the property in 1953 and ran it for fifty years.  The dining area, which is the present day Bamboo Room, was a card room frequented by patrons of the Pioneer Bar and Liquor store. Marty insisted on good liquor and proper grammar while presiding over card games, chess matches, parties and politics.  And you thought the frontier was unrefined!  Marty’s poker games were a hallmark of the Pioneer during this permissive time.

In 1960, Marty rented the card room to Fran Fox to start a restaurant. Fran hung a bamboo curtain to separate the dining area from the bar and called it the Bamboo Room.

Today, Christy Tengs Fowler and her husband Bob Fowler own and operate the business. They grew their own crew: sons, Chevy and Marty. Grandma Helen lives with the family upstairs. She still does the can-can.

And, as Paul Harvey says, now you know the rest of the story.

Faux Pas in Eagle

Eagle, Alaska

The road to Eagle spins off from the Taylor Highway, just east of Chicken, Alaska.  It is 70 miles of gravel road, open from approximately April through October, depending on snowfall.  The rest of the time, transport in and out of Eagle is by plane, snowmobile, or dog sled.  As we have reported in the past, Eagle is remote.  There is no cell service, and internet is accessible only at the library... when it is open.

So we took the turn to Eagle.  And we talked about our trip up the Dempster.  I was anxious to begin blogging the posts to let you know how wonderful it was.  I realized that my computer was not charged, so we pulled over on a spit of abandoned road to plug it into the truck.  David hopped out, but he couldn't find the power cord.  I hopped out to help.  Finally found, he moved a few items in the back seat to access the plug.

Suddenly, voices appeared from nowhere.  "Do you know this is a caribou migratory path?"

"No," David said.

"Well, move!" said the hunters.

We quickly jumped back in the truck.  With just under 7,000 miles of space between us and Texas, who knew we would pull over on the only road directly in the migratory path of the Forty-mile caribou herd... and during hunting season?

It was just the beginning of our faux pas in Eagle this trip.  We arrived on a Monday, too late to meet with our Sunday church friends.  Steve, the park ranger, stopped by, and we were able to reconnect with him.  We asked if he and his wife might meet us for supper or breakfast.  After checking schedules, they agreed to meet us for breakfast the day we were to leave.

We discovered the truck was not powering the camper battery.  After spending the afternoon following the electrical system, David found the problem.  We also discovered that our cell phones and the truck's clock didn't match.  The phones had not been in cell service since we crossed the Yukon/Alaska border.  So the truck's clock was right... right?

The next morning, we went to the local garage to put the camper battery on charge.  Rain settled in, and we spent the afternoon parked in front of Eagle's library and hooking into their internet.

We set our alarm to awake early enough to meet our friends for breakfast.  While we were readying ourselves, however, we saw Steve's car circle the campground.  It seemed odd, but we continued and arrived at the restaurant fifteen minutes ahead of schedule.  Then we remembered that our clocks didn't match.  Our server at the restaurant confirmed we were an hour late.

We found Steve as he was walking to work.   We apologized profusely... and he kindly forgave us.  Time had run out for us in Eagle on this trip.  So we bid adieu with hopes for another chance to reconnect and redeem ourselves.

The Dempster Deconstructed: Part Four, Happy Trails

Traveling the Dempster

We awoke to misty rain and low clouds.  Again, David and I dropped the camper and headed out to the Northwest Territory border with Morgan snug in her sleeping bag cocoon.  By the time we were near the pass, however, fog engulfed us.  We found Morgan’s bear, but he was barely visible, looking more like a spirit bear walking through the mist, even though he was a mere 50 yards from the road.

Spirit Bear on the Dempster

We drove back to camp.  Everyone agreed that we should break camp sooner rather than later in case it began to rain again.  We drove past the Arctic Circle, past Eagle Plains, and onto Engineer Creek.  We hoped that the young ones could fish, but learned that the water there was sulfur-laden river.  No fish could survive in that water.  We were all disappointed for them.

            Although the clouds were heavy, it was not raining. So we started a campfire and had supper around it.  While we were cleaning up, another camper came by and said there was a brown bear near the campground, just up the road.  The gang piled in one of the rigs to try to find him.  David and I stayed behind since our camper was already popped and set up.

            Below is one of the photos Melanie took of the bear as he waltzed down the road.  I was so happy for everyone.  Seeing a bear up close and personal is an amazing experience.  Later, while everyone was back at camp (and we were in bed), the bear came right by our campsite, walking between us and the river.

            The following morning, we continued our drive back to Tombstone.  We saw a distant moose at Two Moose Lake.  Then we stopped to fish at a site we were told was “guaranteed” to provide fish. Although the young ones tried, the fish weren’t biting.  Bummer!

            With a little time to spare, we stopped at the Tombstone campground and took the short interpretive hike.  Then we set up camp at our favorite open area near the campground. After supper, the young ones and Craig played Frisbee, while the rest of us chatted and readied for bed.  

The clouds were beginning to part a bit.  Occasionally we could see a patch of blue sky above.  This was our last night together.  I knew everyone was hoping to see the northern lights. Prospects, however, were dim.  All we could do was pray that the skies would open up for us.

            About 2:30 in the morning, Scott knocked on our camper door, announcing northern lights.  It was an answered prayer.  David, Scott, Bailey, and I stood outside to watch the show, shivering in the frigid night air.  Melanie and Eric were able to watch from the skylight in their rig as were Jen and Craig. I grabbed my camera, but my battery was spent.  David took this shot.

Northern Lights on the Dempster

            I can't describe the emotion that these Northern Lights evoke in me... and, it seemed, everyone who watched them with us.  I could almost hear from Psalm 19, "The heavens declare the glory of God; and the firmament shows His handiwork."  It was a Holy night, as Melanie later described it… one that I will never forget.  It was a perfect ending to our trip up the Dempster.  It had begun with a rainbow and ended with northern lights.  How incredible is that?

            In the morning, we took group shots at the Tombstone Valley overlook.  Notice Craig's drone is in the photo!  We stopped by the Interpretive Center to return their guides and take advantage of the flush toilets one more time.  Then we were off to the beginning of the Dempster and another set of group photos.

            As quick as that, it was over.  After our goodbyes, the gang would head south back to Whitehorse, return their rigs, then all fly to Los Angeles for the weekend before Scott, Melanie, Eric, Morgan, and Bailey headed back to North Carolina.  At the end of the Dempster, David and I would turn west into Alaska.

            I will miss all of our companions.  It was a unique journey for David and me to have these dear friends travel with us on our favorite road.  I wonder how and if it will change them as much as traveling the Dempster has changed us.  

We were blessed to see Scott fulfill a childhood dream to travel to Inuvik.  We saw Eric's Arctic plunge.  Craig mastered flying his drone.  Did we witness the beginnings of a budding botanist as Morgan read brochures about edible plants and picked berries?  And, perhaps, Bailey spoke for all of us when she announced, "I will never look at a flush toilet the same again!"

It has also been a unique experience to see this road through fresh eyes. Both Jen and Melanie have made this most clear to me.  When Jen arrived, she was use to the LA smog.  Once she hit the Dempster, it was as if a veil had been torn from her eyes.  She kept commenting on how clear, vast, and beautiful everything is out here.  It is so true.  And my dear friend, Melanie… at one point toward the end of our journey, she said, “I always thought I was a beach girl. Now I know I’m a mountain girl.”
So am I, Melanie… so am I.

            Thanks to everyone for the memories.  I will cherish them always.  Now it is on to more adventures for David and me as we travel to Alaska.  As John Muir said, “The mountains are calling, and I must go.”

Nine experienced Dempster travelers

The Dempster Deconstructed: Part Three, Back to the Border

We now had a dilemma on our hands.  Rumors were flying that the new rainfall would close the Peel River crossing again.  We also heard there had been a significant snowfall at the Northwest Territory/Yukon border during the night Tuesday.  David and I had been caught in a snowstorm there in 2015.  The pass was slick with black ice under the snow and mud.

We decided it was best to go ahead and move below the river crossings so we wouldn't get caught.  We already had four hard days of hard driving, and we weren't looking forward to another one.  The good news was, however, that it would free up a full day at Rock River.  We could spend two nights at the campground there.  The kiddos could fish, and we could hunt for animals.  The border had been too foggy, rainy, and cold on our way up to even stop.  Now we could really enjoy the area.

With the decision made, we broke camp and went into Inuvik for breakfast at the Mackenzie Grill.  While part of the group went to the post office, Morgan and I dashed across the street to take a photo of  Inuvik's famous Igloo Church.

Igloo Church, Inuvik

On our way back to the ferry crossings, we stopped at the Mackenzie Delta viewpoint.  The three young people and I took a hike while everyone else hobnobbed about more plans.  While on our hike, we went left, while everyone else went right.  It took us a few minutes to hook back up together, but it was great to be out hiking again.

The river crossings were much calmer this time.  I think everyone breathed a sigh of relief as we made it back across the Peel River.  After we crossed the delta, the mountains came back into view, and we could see the snow-dusted tops.  The road was good and solid, so we had no worries at all.

At the border crossing between the Yukon and Northwest Territories, the wind was blowing gale force again.  At least we were in sunshine!  We all jumped out to take the obligatory group photo that we had missed on the way up.  Melanie, Morgan, and I ran across the road to get a photo of them in front of the Yukon sign.  Wow!  Was that wind cold!

We pulled into the viewpoint just south of the border and saw distant caribou through binoculars.  Hunting season was in full force, so the caribou were keeping their distance from the road.  Scott and Eric had a confirmed grizzly bear sighting, although it was so far off in the distance the rest of us could hardly see him.  We planned on returning in the morning to see what other animals might be out and about.

We set up camp at Rock River, one of our favorite campgrounds on the Dempster.  It was late, however, and our favorite spot was taken.  We found another site, ate supper, and soon crashed for the evening.

The next morning, David and I went out early to search for animals.  Before we left, we found our favorite campsite empty, so we quickly paid for it and hung our "this site is occupied" sign out.  Then, with Morgan still snuggled in her sleeping bag in the back seat, we drove up to the viewpoint to see what might be out there.  Morgan dismally said we probably wouldn't see any bears because she was a jinx.  We soon found her fears to be totally false.

We found a big brown bear walking the slope, several hundred yards off the road.  Morgan could only say, "Awesome!"  She named him Buddy.  We went back to the campground to tell the others.  Morgan stayed behind for breakfast with her folks.

Bailey decided to come with us.  We found Buddy again.  Bailey said exactly what her sister had, "Awesome!"  She quickly determined that Buddy was much too gentle a name for this big boy.

Soon the other two rigs joined us.  They began watching Buddy while David and I moved on to scope out other possible sightings.  Not far up the road, we found a blonde bear followed by what was probably her three-year-old cub.  The blonde bear began feasting on the remains of a caribou.  We could see her yank and pull at the bare bones of the leg and knee joint.  The younger bear moved close a few times to share the meal.  The mother must have fussed, because the younger one got no closer than what you see in the photo below.  We watched the two bears for nearly an hour.

That evening was splendid.  The two girls fished... unfortunately without even a bite.  Eric chopped wood... a favorite pastime of his.  We all sat by the fire together that evening.

It was a splendid end to a wonderful day.  We lamented that we only had two nights left on the Dempster before our adventure together would be over.  Time was slipping by so fast!

The Dempster Deconstructed: Part Two, Tuktoyaktuk

Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean

We have traveled the Dempster Highway six times to Inuvik.   The 458-mile road was completed in  1978.  As of November 2017, an additional 90-mile portion of the road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk (or Tuk for short), was open.  David and I always get excited about driving a new road!

We left Jak Campground and stopped by the Inuvik Visitors Center where we were able to introduce the young ones to a few of the Arctic's most famous animals.

Bailey and Morgan with a musk ox

Eric and a caribou

After toping off the fuel tanks, we headed to. Tuk.  The skies were heavy and grey.  We often had misty rain and intermittent sleet.  We were uncertain how the road would be but found it solid and easily traveled.  To be sure, there were areas of washboard and soggy gravel, but, for the most part, the roadbed was solid.  We drove past wetlands and thousands of shallow lakes.  Only a few dwarf trees dotted the barren but beautiful landscape.

Along the road to Tuk

Eric was riding with us.  We spoke often about his plan to dive into the Arctic Ocean.  At one point he he asked if the water temperature would be in the seventies.  I said it would probably be in the forties or less.  

Eric is an excellent basketball player.  David asked him if he had ever had an ice bath after an injury.  Eric said, “Will it be that cold?

When we arrived in Tuk, we stopped at the welcome sign to take a group photo.  The gale-force wind surprised us.  I had to push against the truck door with all my might just to open it.  All of us were wearing as many layers of clothing as we could.  I had on five.  

The severe cold was unexpected.  David talked to Eric about the wind chill factor and how much colder it would be because of it.  Eric said, “I can’t back out now.  I’ve already told all my friends I would do it.”

We drove straight to the ocean.  When we arrived, our truck’s external temperature gauge registered 39 degrees. A local lady told us that the water temperature was around 35 degrees.

Eric quickly changed into his swim trunks and made his way down the steps to the Arctic Ocean. He glanced back to look at all of us huddled along the shore, then he boldly walked into the churning grey water.  When he was waist deep, he turned again to face us, raised his arms, and fell backwards into the bitterly cold water, submerging entirely.  

He came up gasping.  Melanie and Morgan were waiting for him on shore.  Wrapped in towels, Eric ran, as best he could, to the camper.  Later he told us that he couldn't feel his feet and legs when he walked up the stairs.

I suppose it was adrenaline that allowed him to dry off then pose... still in his swimsuit and in 39 degree weather... in front of the Arctic Circle sign.  Eric had done it... he dove into the Arctic Ocean.  It was an experience I will never forget.  Our hats off to you, Eric!

While Eric changed into warm clothes, the rest of the group dangled various body parts into the Arctic.  Morgan went feet first.  Bailey used her hands.

We tried to find a place to eat lunch but there was none.  It was so cold and the wind so fierce, we decided to drive back to Inuvik and Jak Campground for the night.

As we left, we took a few photos of the area.  Tuk is known for its pingos... ice hills that are covered in earth.  In fact, Tuk is the Pingo National Landmark, protecting eight pingos.

Tuktoyaktuk pingo

On the way home, we found many berry pickers along the road.  Finally, Morgan could stand it no more.  We stopped for her to pick cloud berries... known as knuckles to the locals.  They told us that the extreme rain this summer had made it perfect for growing cloud berries.  We all enjoyed a few tasty morsels.

Morgan picking cloud berries

What a day!  We saw an amazing young man exhibit tremendous determination and courage.  We traveled a new road.  We ate luscious cloud berries.  What will tomorrow's journey on the Dempster bring?