The Dempster Deconstructed: Part Two, Tuktoyaktuk

Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean

We have traveled the Dempster Highway six times to Inuvik.   The 458-mile road was completed in  1978.  As of November 2017, an additional 90-mile portion of the road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk (or Tuk for short), was open.  David and I always get excited about driving a new road!

We left Jak Campground and stopped by the Inuvik Visitors Center where we were able to introduce the young ones to a few of the Arctic's most famous animals.

Bailey and Morgan with a musk ox

Eric and a caribou

After toping off the fuel tanks, we headed to. Tuk.  The skies were heavy and grey.  We often had misty rain and intermittent sleet.  We were uncertain how the road would be but found it solid and easily traveled.  To be sure, there were areas of washboard and soggy gravel, but, for the most part, the roadbed was solid.  We drove past wetlands and thousands of shallow lakes.  Only a few dwarf trees dotted the barren but beautiful landscape.

Along the road to Tuk

Eric was riding with us.  We spoke often about his plan to dive into the Arctic Ocean.  At one point he he asked if the water temperature would be in the seventies.  I said it would probably be in the forties or less.  

Eric is an excellent basketball player.  David asked him if he had ever had an ice bath after an injury.  Eric said, “Will it be that cold?

When we arrived in Tuk, we stopped at the welcome sign to take a group photo.  The gale-force wind surprised us.  I had to push against the truck door with all my might just to open it.  All of us were wearing as many layers of clothing as we could.  I had on five.  

The severe cold was unexpected.  David talked to Eric about the wind chill factor and how much colder it would be because of it.  Eric said, “I can’t back out now.  I’ve already told all my friends I would do it.”

We drove straight to the ocean.  When we arrived, our truck’s external temperature gauge registered 39 degrees. A local lady told us that the water temperature was around 35 degrees.

Eric quickly changed into his swim trunks and made his way down the steps to the Arctic Ocean. He glanced back to look at all of us huddled along the shore, then he boldly walked into the churning grey water.  When he was waist deep, he turned again to face us, raised his arms, and fell backwards into the bitterly cold water, submerging entirely.  

He came up gasping.  Melanie and Morgan were waiting for him on shore.  Wrapped in towels, Eric ran, as best he could, to the camper.  Later he told us that he couldn't feel his feet and legs when he walked up the stairs.

I suppose it was adrenaline that allowed him to dry off then pose... still in his swimsuit and in 39 degree weather... in front of the Arctic Circle sign.  Eric had done it... he dove into the Arctic Ocean.  It was an experience I will never forget.  Our hats off to you, Eric!

While Eric changed into warm clothes, the rest of the group dangled various body parts into the Arctic.  Morgan went feet first.  Bailey used her hands.

We tried to find a place to eat lunch but there was none.  It was so cold and the wind so fierce, we decided to drive back to Inuvik and Jak Campground for the night.

As we left, we took a few photos of the area.  Tuk is known for its pingos... ice hills that are covered in earth.  In fact, Tuk is the Pingo National Landmark, protecting eight pingos.

Tuktoyaktuk pingo

On the way home, we found many berry pickers along the road.  Finally, Morgan could stand it no more.  We stopped for her to pick cloud berries... known as knuckles to the locals.  They told us that the extreme rain this summer had made it perfect for growing cloud berries.  We all enjoyed a few tasty morsels.

Morgan picking cloud berries

What a day!  We saw an amazing young man exhibit tremendous determination and courage.  We traveled a new road.  We ate luscious cloud berries.  What will tomorrow's journey on the Dempster bring?