Friday, May 10, 2019

Maria Island

Many folks told us that a "must see" was Maria Island (pronounced Ma-rye-ya) in Tasmania.  They promised wombats... healthy wombats... and wallabies.  I was smitten with the thought.

We arrived in Triabunna in the afternoon and found the ferry landing.  The weather was coarse... misty, with a heavy wind.  Uncertain whether the trip would be worthwhile, we re-provisioned and watched the clouds.

Maria Island is a 45-minute passenger ferry ride from Triabunna.  There are no facilities on the island... "not even a coffee shop," as one person told us.  If we were to go, we would need to spend a minimum of three hours on the island, exposed to whatever weather the day held before the next ferry.  The forecast did not look good.

When we awoke, misty rain surrounded us.  The clouds were low.  Weather forecasts indicated a 70% chance of rain for the morning, with a chance for a bit of clearing in the afternoon.  Temperatures would be no more than in the 50s.  Tomorrow had an even higher prediction of rain.  Should we chance it?

Ultimately, we decided to take the ferry and hoped for the best.  We packed our rain parkas and were not disappointed.  Within five minutes of our landing, we spied our first wombat, asleep in a dentation in the woods.  Pademelons (miniature wallabies, about 18" tall) watched over him.  I was excited.

Resting Wombat, Maria Island

Pademelons, Maria Island
Wombats and pademelons were everywhere on Maria Island, grazing on the great lawn of an old convict encampment (which David will post about later).  There were so many, in fact, that the area was completely littered in poop.  It was hard to even take a photo without little plops of poop in every corner.

Soon we also encountered another creature we had recently discovered... the Cape Barren Goose.

Maria Island Cape Barren Goose
My hip was feeling a bit better, so we took the reservoir hike and found more wallabies, kangaroos, and pademelons along the trek.  With all this wildlife, the misty rain hardly dampened our spirits.


Reservoir Trek, Maria Island 


When we stopped for a picnic lunch, we discovered a wombat momma and her baby.  Wombats are burrowing marsupials.  Their burrows are often more than 100 feet in length and have many entrances.  Wombat joeys are born about the size of a jelly bean.  They mature in their mother's rear-facing pouch for about five months before they venture out of the pouch and begin grazing on their own.


While waiting for the ferry to return, we stopped by the information center and watched a series of videos about the recent introduction of the Tasmanian Devil to Maria Island.  Tasmanian Devils are in danger of becoming extinct because of a rare, contagious cancer known as facial tumor disease that is spreading like wildfire among the Devils in Tasmania and decimating their populations in the process.  Because the Devils combat each other so frequently, they infect one another with the cancer through bites and scratches.

A group of disease-free Tassie Devils have been released on Maria Island.  It is a bold move, introducing a carnivore on this predator-free island, particularly with so many herbivore wombats, kangaroos, and wallabies.  However, many feel it is the only chance for survival for the Tassie Devils.  I am anxious to learn more about the Devils.

Before the ferry arrived, David and I wandered around the encampment, finding a wombat nestled in his burrow for the evening and a young wombat digging in the ground, eating grasses and roots.  Overall, it was an amazing day.

Wombat in his den on Maria Island

I think I can finally say that my wombat desires have been fulfilled!  To say the least, it was difficult to say goodbye to Maria Island.  While its weather had been unpredictable, its wildlife had exceeded all expectations.  What other amazing creatures does Tasmania have in store for us?

Leaving Maria Island

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