Homer and Beyond

 

David and Sam on Anchor Point Beach, Alaska.  Mount Iliamna in background.

Traffic was more than we remembered on our trek through Anchorage, Soldotna, and on to the Kenai Peninsula. Whenever we’re in remote places, coming back into cities can feel overwhelming.   We camped at Skilak Lake, one of our favorite places. The number of fisher folks, however, was crazy, and the campground nearly full. 

We did spy a little black bear on the gravel road to the lake. We soon also discovered that a fire had raged through the area several years ago, making it almost unrecognizable. With all the traffic and changes, we decided to head on to Homer. 

A fellow photographer had told us to stop by Deep Creek to check out the eagles. Unfortunately, we found only seagulls. So we drove on.  

Homer is a seaside town resting on Kachemak Bay. We have been here several times before, but not in over five years. We were amazed at the growth, making this quaint seaside town more of a tourist destination. It had at least doubled in size. Tourism had also grown exponentially. The last time we visited, the end of the Spit (the thread of land connecting Homer to the sea) was the end of the road and a lookout point over the bay. Now a hotel sat at the end of this strip of land. 

Traffic was at a crawl and bumper to bumper. Shops and parking lots to serve tourists had sprung up on every smidgeon of available land. Hundreds of RVs were crammed in gravel pit campsites. We felt crushed on every side. 

We left town quickly and camped at a familiar spot, Anchor Point. It was a breath of fresh air. We went down to the beach and watched several boats being transported to the water.  In a unique operation, they use a large front-end loader (often used in construction) modified with a boat trailer hitch capable of hauling and launching big fishing boats.  They back the boat into sufficiently deep water to launch it.  Once the boat floats off the trailer, the captain reverses the engines to head into deeper waters.

Boat launch at Anchor Point, Alaska

We watched a group horseback ride the beach.

Horseback riders, Anchor Point, Alaska

On the way to our campsite, we spied a mother moose and her twin calves.

Moose cow near Anchor Point, Alaska

Twin moose calves, near Anchor Point, Alaska

Later we met Bill, a lone Englishman traveling the Kenai. We camped next to Bill and had him over for a cup of wine (since we had already eaten supper). He told us a bit about his life. He lived outside Manchester, was a retired civil engineer, and a world traveler. Traveling was his passion. He had no family, so he spent his time traveling with only a backpack and his wits. He spoke of traveling to Madagascar and the Canary Islands and the Sudan and everywhere in between. Bill even told us about hiking Skagway’s historic and grueling 33-mile Chilkoot gold rush trail in June with no snowshoes. As Bill said, “And I really needed snowshoes!”

A piece of me envies Bill’s travels, but I feel blessed to have my traveling companion. It must get lonely traveling so far from home all alone. As Bill lamented, at his age most of his traveling buddies are gone or no longer able to travel with him, and he no longer has the stamina for longer treks. 

Bill carried no technology with him… no phone, no computer. He hitchhiked or took busses or trains or relied on newly-met friends to ferry him to his next destination. 

We took him to his next bus ride this morning. David lifted Bill’s 60-to-65-pound pack from our camper, and Bill strapped it on his shoulders. We said our goodbyes at a fittingly named bus stop and restaurant for a traveling Brit… the Cheeky Moose. 

David and Bill in front of the Cheeky Moose

We decided to leave the Kenai and it’s hustle and bustle. On our way out, we stopped by the old Ninilchik Russian Orthodox Church. The 1901 church replaced one built in 1846. It’s unique design is in the shape of a cross. Its gable roof is crowned by an octagonal cupola and five onion domes.  The surrounding cemetery is laced with orthodox crosses and daisies.  Set upon a bluff overlooking the bay, the Iliamna volcano can be seen from the church yard. 

Ninilchik Russian Orthodox Church, Alaska

Crosses and Daisies at Ninilchik Russian Orthodox Church, Alaska

As we made our way back to the truck, I could hardly believe it when I spied an eagle standing guard over her nest. Amazing!  Later, we caught a glimpse of a bear on the road back to Skilak. While not great photos, it is still a blessing to see these creatures. 

Eagle guarding nest, Ninilchik, Alaska

Shy bear, Skilak Lake, Alaska

We have made record time traveling the Kenai Peninsula.  As we look at the map and timing, we have come to an interesting conclusion. Perhaps another visit to Valdez IS in our near future. I am smiling.