After a sunny morning's drive, we arrived in Skagway amidst misty rain. Four cruise ships had docked in the harbor. The streets bustled with tourists. A server told us that as many as 10,000 tourists come into town each day by cruise ships, not including Skagway residents and those of us who travel by vehicle. Needless to say, it was a shock to the senses to see so many people and shops!
We opted to stay nine miles out of town at the Dyea Campground, part of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. Thankfully, our site was nestled in trees. Only one other camper was staying in the campground.
Steeped in history, this area is known as the launching point for so many stampeders during the 1898 Klondike Gold Rush. Some came because they lusted for gold, others came distressed over hard economic times, still others came seeking adventure. Few fulfilled these dreams, particularly when the harsh reality of Yukon winters caught many by surprise.
There is a haunting photo of Chilkoot Pass that we have seen along the gold rush trails.
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| Stampeders at Chilkoot Pass (photo from Library of Congress). For more information, see http://www.nps.gov/history/nr/twhp/wwwlps/lessons/55klondike/55klondike.htm |
The Royal Canadian Mounted Police, fearing that unprepared stampeders would die in the harsh winter, mandated that all stampeders must come with two month's supply of provisions, or 1,000 pounds of food, clothing, and gear. The above photo was taken at Chilkoot Pass, during the 1898 gold rush frenzy. Chilkoot Pass was the cheapest route between Alaska and the Yukon.
Leaving Skagway, stampeders used the town of Dyea as their staging ground for the trip on the Chilkoot trail to Dawson City. At 3,500 foot in altitude, Chilkoot Pass became the juggernaut for many stampeders. Each had to haul his provisions over the pass, an estimated 1,500 steps to the top. Most lashed 100 pounds of gear on his back at a time and hiked up "the Golden Stairs," in lockstep behind yet another stampeder. At the top, the provisions were registered. Then the stampeder would slide back down the pass, pick up another 100 pounds of gear, and make the climb again. Only when all of his provisions had reached the top was he allowed to continue his search for gold.
One report notes, "100,000 left for the Klondike," they say, "40,000 made it to Dawson City, and 4,000 found gold." And probably 40 came away rich, if that many. (See http://www.ralphmag.org/DO/klondike.html)
David and I discovered that the Chilkoot Pass trailhead was only a short distance from our campground. Today, the trailhead is buried in a lush, almost tropical forest. The initial ascent is steep and some 13 miles from Chilkoot Pass. We only hiked for a short while along this 33-mile trek, with our thoughts on the original stampeder's journey.
We awakened the next morning to still more rain and decided that it was time to head due south. After we crossed back into Canada, the clouds began to clear.
With the sun peaking across mountains bathed in gold, we felt we made the right decision.
For more information about the Chilkoot Trail and the Klondike Gold Rush, please visit http://www.nps.gov/history/nr/twhp/wwwlps/lessons/55klondike/55klondike.htm
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