Home, Sweet Home

Sunset at Caprock Canyon

Texas!  Whenever we cross that state line, it feels as if we're already home.

We pulled into Caprock Canyon State Park early in the evening and were delighted to set up our last night's camp in our favorite spot... the overflow camping area.  This small meadow rests on a mesa and is bathed in a fresh breeze every evening.

After nearly ten hours of driving, we were all glad to be able to stretch and enjoy the beauty of a Texas sunset.  Roxanne took advantage of the thick grass and rolled to her heart's content.

To our surprise, we saw a female coyote walking up the road not more than 20 feet from our camper.  She was hunting and evidently didn't even notice us.  She fled as soon as I took this photo...

As dusk settled, two deer grazed nearby.  We were struck with the beauty God offered us during these last moments of this year's travels.

We relished the cool evening, knowing well that we would break camp early to arrive home before sunset tomorrow.  Home... it is such a sweet word, isn't it?

Amarillo on Dwellable

A Close Encounter in Los Alamos

We decided to take a different route home from Colorado this trip.  We took Hwys 550 to 126 to 502. The route was very scenic and gave us a fresh look at this rugged and beautiful part of the country.

We camped at the Jemez Falls campground.  With Los Alamos only 12 miles away, we decided to make a quick run into town.  Those 12 miles became longer and longer as we snaked down the mountain.  We followed the GPS directions, taking the shortest route by turning from Hwy 4 onto Hwy 501.

Before we knew it, we found ourselves at a government security checkpoint!  A bit shaken, I rolled down the window.  A rather intimidating guard asked where we were going.  I told him that we just wanted a few groceries, and that I had obviously taken the wrong road.  Could I just turn around?

Obviously, I was not the first to have made the mistake.  The guard was so kind, even trying to hide his smile at my frightened look.  He followed regulations, which required seeing our identifications, and informing us that we were on government property.  Who knew?  He also gave us explicit directions to the grocery store and told us that we were not allowed to take photos while in the compound.

We traveled through several miles of fenced properties with LOTS of security around.  Los Alamos itself was almost too crisp and clean, adding to the spooky feeling we had.  Needless to say, we took the long way along Hwy 4 back to camp... and learned a valuable lesson... don't take Hwy 501 into Los Alamos!

The good news is that we discovered some breathtaking scenery, a wonderful campground, and the Valles Caldera National Preserve along Hwy 4.  The Preserve is grazed by New Mexico's largest elk herd, numbering around 8,000.  Although we were too early for the elk migration, it is definitely an area to return to... just not through Los Alamos!

Taos on Dwellable

Storm Clouds Brewing

Million Dollar Highway near Ouray, Colorado

We awoke to a beautiful, albeit warm morning in Moab.  In an attempt to let Kate sleep in on her one full day off, David made coffee, and we enjoyed the morning sitting outside the camper.  As we gazed towards the east, we noticed an enormous amount of storm clouds gathering around mountains to the east.. the very direction we intended to travel.  We decided that it would be best to leave Moab earlier rather than later.  With hugs around, we said our farewells to Kate and headed toward Colorado.

The past few years we have ended our annual adventure by traveling the Million Dollar Highway (Route 550) between Ridgeway and Durango, Colorado.  David and I have been hiking, backpacking, and traveling this area for nearly forty years, and it never fails to bring us joy.  This time of year is exceptionally beautiful with all of the fall colors.

Dallas Divide, Ridgeway, Colorado

We were surprised to find the Dallas Divide with just a tinge of color.  In another two weeks, this place will be absolutely drenched in golds, reds, and oranges.  Unfortunately, we're feeling like horses heading to the barn right now and not willing to wait.

By the time we reached higher elevations near Ouray, the landscape was bathed in breathtaking fall colors.

We decided to stop at Mineral Creek Campground near Silverton, a favorite camping spot.  As we rounded one of the corners along the gravel road to the campground, I began to shout, "Moose, moose!!!"  David tromped on the brakes, looking bewildered as he tried to locate what I was pointing at... and he found him... a moose trotting right up the very road we were traveling.  This was a shocking experience for both of us.  In all of our years of visiting this end of Colorado, we have NEVER seen a moose until today.

He was young, perhaps only two years, scrawny and in velvet.  But a moose he be... I managed to catch this shot of him...  How come I always seem to get the derriere?

We arrived at the campground with storm clouds appearing to dissipate.  The area was covered in tiny pink flags.  When we registered, an information sign indicated that the pink flags marked flooded areas from the 2009 flood.  Of course, we had already set camp in one of those areas, not more than 15 feet from the creek.  No worries... right???

We enjoyed a lovely evening, reminiscing the trip.  By bedtime, storm clouds were gathering in earnest.  By midnight, the skies opened up and, oh my gosh, did it rain!  The wind gusted, buffeting the camper walls.  Rain pounded the aluminum roof.  By two, we had flashlights pointed towards the creek as the roar from the rushing water increased.  By break of dawn, we were dressed and ready to roll, fearing that the road would once again be awash from a flash flood.  We discovered that our campsite was on a knoll and now had rather large rivulets of water running on either side.  As we drove back to 550, we noticed that the creek was level with the road in several places.  We were more than a bit thankful that while Mineral Creek ran wild, it was still within its banks.

We detoured through Silverton for breakfast at one of our favorite stops, the Brown Bear Cafe. As we savored a hot cup of coffee, we realized that this year's trip had been quite the adventure.  We had traveled through fires, days of continuous rain, a freak snowstorm, desert heat, sheep, and now a flood!  Wow!

As we left Silverton, we pulled off on a high spot so that I could take one last photo... after the storm...

Silverton, Colorado

Next stop... TEXAS!!!

Ouray on Dwellable

Kate Finishes the Pacific Crest Trail!!!

For those of you who followed last year's trip, you'll remember Kate, our niece who was hiking the 2,650-mile Pacific Crest Trail (see Kate and the Pacific Crest Trail).  She was hiking the trail to bring awareness to the need to get young people connected to nature.  You'll also remember her heartbreak when a freak early winter storm forced her off the trail, less than 400 miles from her goal (see Drama and Heroism on the PCT).

Kate at the Canadian border after hiking the entire 2,650-mile Pacific Crest Trail

This summer on July 20th, Kate began her quest again.  She started hiking at the point where she left the PCT during the blizzard.  On August 13th of this year, Kate made her goal.  She completed her journey to become one of the few people on the planet to accomplish such an amazing test of endurance.

Of course, we had to stop to congratulate her!  Kate raised over $5,700, split between two organizations that help children to connect with nature.... Canyonland Field Institute and City Kids Wilderness Project.

During our visit, Kate showed us her outdoor "office," as lead naturalist at Canyonland Field Institute.  We spent time catching up and enjoying time together.  It was so great to see her!

With heavy clouds surrounding the mountains, today we leave for the Million Dollar Highway in Colorado... our last stop before the big push for home.

Baa, Baa Black Sheep

With a promised stop to visit our Pacific Crest Trail-hiking niece Kate the upcoming weekend, David scoured the map for campgrounds with high elevations between the Davis Mountains and Moab.  It looked like the Manti-La Sal National Forest would be a good bet.  We stopped at the ranger station in Ephraim for more information.  The kind ranger offered us a map and wonderful opportunity to take Skyline Drive, a rugged, mountainous four-wheel drive trail.  She also assured us that the campground was above 9,000 feet in altitude and temperatures would certainly be cool at those elevations.

The road up to the Skyline Pass was about 30 miles of rough, rocky road, but certainly passable.  When we reached the summit, the view of the Ferron reservoir valley was absolutely breathtaking.

Ferron Reservoir from Skyline Summit

Past the summit, we had a short series of extremely rocky and narrow switchbacks.  To say the least, it was a white-knuckle ride.  With no room to pass, thank God we didn't meet any other vehicles  except two motorcyclists!

As we entered the valley, we were surprised by the number of sheep grazing along the roadside.  They appeared not to have any shepherds or sheep dogs with them, so we assumed the owners had a permit to graze the sheep on government land.

We settled into our campsite near the reservoir and took Roxanne for a swim.  She was so happy to be  wet and in cooler temperatures!

By late afternoon, we noticed that the sheep seemed to be grazing closer and closer to us.  They had made their way from the road across the valley to the small peninsula overlooking the reservoir.

Soon the entire flock was grazing just over the hill from our campground.

A bit concerned that we might have approximately 500 sheep grazing through our camp within the next few minutes, I called to Roxanne, wondering what might happen if the sheep saw her.  What happened next surprised us all!

Rox strolled over the hill to check things out... and in her normal Golden way, she just stood, sniffed, and observed.  The sheep, however, must have been quite familiar with dogs... most likely herding dogs.  They took one look at Rox and skiddadled as fast and far away from her as they could.  David and I couldn't help but laugh as Roxanne walked back, looking so proud.

Thankfully, the sheep chose to detour a wide path around our campsite.  We were doubly grateful because many of them had obviously been recently wormed.  Those who had been had diarrhea.  Needless to say, the entire area was ripe with fresh sheep dung.

Because of Roxanne, however, the sheep parted to the left and right of our site, giving us plenty of space.  By evening, they were grazing peacefully along the hillside on the opposite side of us.

We spent two beautiful days at Ferron Reservoir.  The second day we did some much-needed readjusting before our big push towards home.  We pulled everything out of the truck, shook off the dirt, and repacked it.

Ferron was a much needed respite for us all.  The fall colors were bright, the evenings chilly enough for sweatshirts, and with sheep running every time they saw her, Roxanne had her mojo back.  What a wonderful time!

Now on to Moab!

Park City on Dwellable

Hot and Wild

My trigger finger is itching... and wild horses await!  Happily, we arrived in the Davis Mountains, ready to locate my brumbies.  This year we knew what we were in for, and we were set... plenty of water, propane tanks full for the chilly nights, reprovisioned with all necessities, and the camera batteries all charged... we were ready to stay a full week, if needed.

When we arrived, we set up camp at our usual spot and searched the horizon for the horses.  David finally spied them far off in the distance.  As we watched through the evening, the herd appeared to move further away rather than closer.  We knew that they would probably need water within three days, so we kept close eye on the watering hole.

Searching for Brumbies

We were surprised at the temperatures.  It was well into the 90s when we arrived.  And while we were expecting temperatures to drop well into the 50s that night, they barely made the 60s.  Thankfully, a beautiful breeze kept us cool.

By morning, the herd had certainly moved, but not in the right direction.  We drove up several four-wheel drive trails, trying to get closer to them.  We were able to get within a mile or so, but the sun was already bearing down.  By mid-morning, it was well into the 80s... much too hot to leave Roxanne in the truck, and we knew that she certainly couldn't make the mile or more hike to get close to the herd.

With hopes that the herd would move towards the road by afternoon, we decided to spend the day by taking a drive up the Pony Express Trail.  One of the road signs indicated a wildlife refuge about 50 miles from us, so we decided to take a drive to see what it was all about.  Along the way, we discovered a small, previously unknown band of wild horses at a watering hole.  Three other vehicles were stopped, all photographers.  It appeared that they were part of a photography workshop.

We all kept our distance from each other while we photographed members of the small band.  This group of brumbies were not as dynamic as the larger herd.  In fact, these horses seemed mostly interested in dust and mud baths to help with the rising temperatures.

After a half hour or more, we decided to continue our drive to the wildlife refuge.  To our amazement, we found Fish Springs Wildlife Refuge right in the middle of the Utah desert.  With salt flats on one side and mountains on the other, nestled in between was a water oasis.  Spring fed, this area is a migrating waterfowl paradise.

Fish Springs Wildlife Refuge in Utah

By the time we returned to camp, it was nearly 100 degrees.  With the wild horses still miles from the nearest road, I was worried.  That evening, the wind died down, and it was still and muggy.  We had to sleep with with fans on just to keep cool.  Poor Roxanne panted softly nearly all night.  When we awoke the next morning, the temperature was in the low 70s and rising fast.  Thankfully, we had cell service.  A quick check of the weather forecast indicated that temperatures would remain in the 90s for the rest of the week.

I knew we had but one choice...  we could hardly spend days in the truck, running the air conditioner, waiting for the herd to come closer.  I was heartsick, knowing that we had to find higher elevations and cooler temperatures for Roxanne.  Who would have thought that less than a week after sub-freezing temperatures in Banff that we would now be heading for higher ground because it was too hot, particularly when it had been so cool during last year's visit?

With the wild horse herd still miles off any road, we broke camp, turned east, and headed to higher ground.

Looking for Moose in All the Wrong Places

Since our first visit to the Tetons in the 80's, it has been one of the best places we've found to photograph moose... except for the past several years.  While camping at Sheffield Creek, we had a great conversation with the only other campers, a local rancher and his wife who often come to the area for horseback riding.  In the course of our conversation we told him that we were looking for moose to photograph.  To my dismay, the rancher said that the moose population was down drastically.  He blamed a growing number of predators, including bear, wolves, and mountain lion.

Of course, I was devastated at the news.  We broke camp and headed to Lake Jackson Lodge, our favorite place to download emails.  While there, I looked into the moose mystery and read several news articles highlighting the reasons for the moose decline.

It appears that moose have declined in the Grand Teton, Bridger/Teton, and Shoshone forests by 30 percent over the past decade.  While the rancher is correct that predators have made an impact in the moose decline, most reports that I read indicated that a variety of issues have made the moose more susceptible to predation.  Moose are cold weather animals.  A series of warmer winters and shorter springs have diminished the kinds of plants moose normally forage.  While some moose have migrated in search of food and colder temperatures, others have stayed and become malnourished to the point that mothers, for example, are having difficulty carrying their babies to term or supplying their new calves with proper nutrition.  To make matters worse, a deadly parasite called Elaeophora schneideri, is ravaging moose herds (see Where are the Moose?).  Unfortunately, none of the reports ended with hope that a sudden comeback of the moose population was on the horizon.

We left the Tetons within the hour, deciding that the Davis Mountains and my herd of wild horses would offer a better photo op.  We found a campground eight miles up a four-wheel drive road, looking for solitude.  Unfortunately, we didn't realize that this was the first weekend of hunting season and the area was a local favorite.  There must have been over a dozen horse trailers and even more trucks pulling ATVs in the area.  While it was still dark, we heard shots being fired far too close to our campsite.  We decided to break camp and leave early, shortly after dawn.

I told David that with hunting season now open that we probably wouldn't see a single member of the deer family for the remainder of the trip.  I was wrong.  Within minutes of my making that statement, we rounded a bend, and lo and behold, a mother moose and her calf were grazing near a pond about 50 yards from the roadside.  (When will I ever learn that God is in charge... not me?)

We stopped to take a few photos... unfortunately, all blurry because I had the camera set in the wrong position.  No matter... it was a privilege and a blessing to watch hope in the form of a moose and her calf drenched in rays of sunlight.

Thank you, Lord!  With hearts lifted, we set our sights on Utah.

"Surprise us with love at daybreak; then we'll skip and dance all the day long."  Psalm 90:14 (The Message)