Thursday, October 10, 2013

Hell's Backbone

On the Edge
The next state park with showers was Escalante State Park.  To our chagrin, it, too, was full.

As we turned around to leave, we discovered the Escalante Rock Shop not far from the entrance to the park.  We decided to pick up some specimens for a rockhound friend's birthday.  Wow!  What a great place to shop (see www.escalanterockshop.com)!  Owner Scott Nelson was such a help to us non-rockhounders.  As we chatted, we also discovered that Scott not only knew all about various rock specimens and rockhounding, but also knew about the area well.  He gave us directions to Posey State Park and Hell's Backbone Road.

It was a warm day, so we were undaunted in our quest for showers.  We figured that we would just pull out our little Zodi and have a hot shower by the lake.  We drove up, up, and UP, cresting at over 8,800 feet on the Colorado Plateau.  During that 16 mile drive, the desert melted away, and we found ourselves deep among Ponderosa pines and scrambling for sweatshirts.

Posey Lake, near Escalante, Utah
Posey State Park and lake were lovely but terribly cold.  We walked Roxanne and tried to sit outside for a few moments, using the truck as a windbreaker.  It was all to no avail... the biting wind drove us inside the camper.  Hopes for a shower were completely dashed.  The ambient temperature was chilling, and we opted for scrubbing down with some wet wipes again rather than bare all in less than 40 degree temperatures!

The following morning, we decided to drive Hell's Backbone Road (Forest Road 153) to Boulder (Utah), not knowing exactly why they might have named it thus or what the scenery might be like.  It was an extraordinary drive.  The scenery was exquisite, and the sheer ruggedness of Death Hollow was positively impossible to capture with the camera.  (Of course, however, I had to try!)




The road was named Hell's Backbone because of a bridge constructed by the CCC in 1933.  The bridge spans a narrow, winding backbone of rock connecting a chasm over Death Hollow.  This one lane bridge was originally made of wood.  The newest version, built in 2005, is considered wider more stout, however, it certainly brought out my bridge phobia.  I can't imagine what it must have taken to build this thing!



From Boulder, we traveled through a portion of Capitol Reef National Monument.  While the national parks were all still closed, this portion had to remain open because it ran along a state highway.  We found more amazing but inaccessible geology and even some pictographs (evidently state owned).



Once we passed through the Capital Reef area, the terrain changed dramatically to an almost moon-like landscape.  In some areas, there simply was no vegetation... or any signs of life at all.

Our next campground on the shower list was Goblin Valley State Park.  Known for its "goblin-like" sandstone formations, we were looking forward to a hike.  The park, however, is very remote and off grid.  With water supplies short and the park full, the park rangers would not allow anyone in just to shower.  Definitely this park required a return visit.

Disappointed but determined, we continued driving and finally found a state campground with openings AND showers in Green River.  This was a huge compromise for us because the campground was so close to railroad tracks and civilization.  (It bordered a golf course.)  However, desperation had set in... we planned to meet family tomorrow in Moab.  Sacrifices had to be made.  Regardless of the train waking us up several times that night, it felt great to be clean again!!!

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