It felt great to be back in the U.S.A.!!! It's amazing what little things make such a difference... miles versus kilometers make perfect sense to me, and it feels so good to not need to calculate the difference anymore!
We spent our first night back in the States in East Glacier National Park's Many Glacier campground, a campground we have loved for years. It had a much different feel this trip. For the first time since we can remember, we arrived before the campground had shut down water to the sites. In the past, we shared the campground with only a handful of other campers. Today it was nearly full with only a few vacant campsites. We looked for a site with lots of sunlight, hoping to dry out the camper. after all the snow We settled on site number four. We popped the top and began to air out all our wet gear. Obviously, Glacier had also received a good amount of snow, however it was melting fast in the 40+ degree sunshine.
Within the hour, a motorhome pulled in across from us. As soon as the group arrived, they turned on their old, noisy generator. A neighboring camper banged on the motorhome's door, explaining to the inhabitants that generator hours were from five to seven. Within minutes the generator quit. Unfortunately, they restarted the generator at five and ran it the entire two hours. By the time they cut it off, nerves across the campground were shattered, particularly mine.
Feeling like claustrophobic Grinches, we left Glacier first thing in the morning, looking for quieter places and reminding ourselves that our adjustment from remote to busy has always been difficult on these adventures.
We headed to Yellowstone. Again, we were unaccustomed to such crowds. By the time we arrived in the park, Mammoth Springs and Fishing Bridge campgrounds were both full. We ended up in Madison campground. The park attendant did his best to find us a quiet spot. We and one group of tent campers were the only dry campers in the entire campground. Rows and rows of motor homes, fifth wheels, and rental RVs surrounded us. Generators whined around us, although, thankfully, not next door.
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North Yellowstone Entrance |
We had counted on Yellowstone's facilities to help us prepare for the last few weeks of our trip. The next morning we headed straight to much-needed showers and did several loads of laundry. As we lamented the crowds, we realized that we had not been here so early in the season in years. With the weather pushing us relentlessly south, we were in Yellowstone a full two to three weeks earlier than expected. Normally, we don't arrive until late September or early October. By that time, the only campgrounds open are dry sites... without water or electricity, and visitors are much fewer. Today, we were surrounded by bustling crowds and big rigs.
Over the years, much in camping has changed. Tent and small campers use to be the norm. Now it is motorhomes, fifth wheels, and camper vans. Most are like small apartments on wheels. Some come complete with granite countertops, microwaves, and bathtubs. Instead of a simple 110 electric cord to power small appliances, many of these rigs require 50 amps, sewer drains, and, of course, the optional satellite television hookup. These rigs have become so popular that an entire rent-an-RV business has become a favorite for travelers. In many respects it is a wonderful option for folks, offering a mobility and level of comfort that allows them to see more of the great outdoors.
But is it camping? I suppose it is all in the eye of the beholder. Several years ago, a huge motorhome pulled in, parking next to our pristine view of Muncho Lake. Not once did its inhabitants exit their vehicle. While medical reasons may have prevented their enjoying this beautiful area up close and personal, it seemed almost tragic to know that they had missed something so wonderful. In another campground, we watched one group spend no less than two hours trying to hone in their satellite dish so they could watch television. Again, perhaps they had a loved one on TV that night and wanted to watch, but too often it seems that folks are taking the very things that they want to get away from with them.
Please understand, I'm not dissing RVs or their owners... dear friends and our in-laws have had large rigs... and they definitely have used them to enjoy the wonderful outdoors. But as the years progress, it feels that there is a growing disconnect between those who travel in RVs and their enjoying the great outdoors. A park ranger told us (and recent statistics verify) that less than 2% of all national park visitors venture more than 100 yards off the main road. Oh, if they only knew what joys they were missing! Perhaps Richard Louv's theory of nature deficit disorder is growing at an even greater rate than even he imagined (see his book,
Last Child in the Woods) and people are now observing nature at a distance or on television rather than experiencing it personally.
Several small business owners along the Alaskan Highway shared their concerns with us about the changes they were seeing with their customers. Many felt afraid and bewildered at the changing climate, wondering if their small businesses could survive the growing demands. One business owner told us that visitors would actually rant at her if they didn't have unlimited access to the internet or if their facilities couldn't accommodate their rig with electric, sewer, and satellite hookup. Many of these remote places along the AlCan simply can't afford the amenities folks request. One business owner said that they were shocked when their internet provider charged them an additional $1,000 one month because of overages on their internet usage. They discovered that guests were downloading everything from e-books to full resolution photos. After a request from one business owner that a woman download only email, she learned that the woman's son emailed her the entire Costco weekly ad so that she could see what they had for sale... even tho' she was on vacation and there wasn't a Costco within five hundred miles! Many business owners lamented that demands felt greater, personal connections fewer, and the economy worse than ever. One lady even commended us for not bringing our cell phones into her establishment and thanked us for talking directly to her rather than paying attention to our phones.
But I digress and must remind myself that after spending so much time surrounded by so few people over the past two months, re-entry is always a bit confusing. Feeling overstimulated from the crowds, I felt so grateful when the last load of laundry was dried and folded. We had an ace in the hole for even busy Yellowstone. We headed straight for Sheffield Creek.
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Sheffield Creek Campground |
This primitive National Forest campground has only six sites, a pit toilet, and no water or electricity. It also has a creek crossing which prohibits larger rigs from entering. After setting camp, we stretched, took in a short hike, and relished a lovely sunset. By nightfall, we were one of only two campers. The stars were bright, and the wind warm.
Ahh... nothing beats the beautiful outdoors filled with nothing but peace and quiet!!!