A Tale of Three Towns on the Dempster

Inuvik sign

Three towns lie on the Dempster Highway, Fort McPherson, Tesiigehtchic, and Inuvik.  The first lies just past the Mackensie ferry crossing.  We truly enjoy visiting Fort McPherson, particularly with its campground host, Robert.  Their campground is the most well cared for and has the best showers on the Dempster, in our humble opinion.  The townspeople are warm and friendly.

Fort McPherson has a population of about 900, with more than 80 percent of the population First Nationa Gwich’in.  Fort McPherson was founded in 1849 by an explorer as a trading post for the Hudson Bay Company.  Anglican missionaries arrived in 1866.  The town is vibrant and known for the Fort McPherson Tent & Canvas factory.  Most of its inhabitants live off the land.

The northern most town on the Dempster is Inuvik.  Inuvik is bustling, with a population of over 3,500 people, offering all services.  A regional government town built in the early 1950’s, Inuvik has a wide variety of people and purposes.  With production of oil and gas in Beaufort and the new construction of a road between Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk (also known as Tuk), Inuvik continues to grow in size and importance.

Inuvik is known for its landmark Catholic church, known by most as the Igloo church, built in 1960.  We spent two days in Inuvik on this trip, looking through the museum at the Visitor’s Center, taking a stroll along Boot Lake, enjoying the Mackensie Coffee House and its internet, and talking with some of its citizens.

Inuvik Igloo Church

While both Fort McPherson and Tesiigehtchic forbid the sale of alcohol in their communities, Inuvik does not… and it shows in certain darker corners of town.  Over our several visits to Inuvik, we have been approached each time by one or more First Nation people near the liquor store across from the gas station, each looking for money to buy more drink.  Unfortunately, we encountered it again this visit. 

Bootleggers not welcome, Fort McPherson

With the weather so rainy and cold, we decided to stop at a restaurant before leaving for the campground on our last day in Inuvik.  We were enjoying our meal when a gentleman sat directly behind me at the next table.  Our waiter asked him what he would like to drink.  We heard the man answer in a slurred voice that he wanted some juice.

The waiter immediately asked the man if he had been drinking.  Next he asked the man to leave or he would call the police.  The drunken man sat mutely at his table.  The waiter walked briskly to the phone to make his call.  He stopped by our table briefly to assure us that everything would be taken care of in a matter of minutes. 

David and I were stunned.  Our conversation stopped.  Lunch suddenly had little appeal.  I was in no way frightened or feeling threatened by the man, just so sorry that all of this was happening to him.

Within less than five minutes, two Royal Canadian Mounted Police arrived.  A very tall officer called the drunken man by name.  Then he gently said, “Buddy, this is the seventh day in a row that we’ve had to take you in.  What’s going on?  You know that public intoxication is a crime.”

The man simply gave a thumbs up.  He sat silently at the table for a few moments more until the police officer gently tucked his hand under the drunken man’s arm and raised him to his feet.  The police escorted the man out of the restaurant, handcuffed him in the hallway, then loaded him into the vehicle. 

At this point, my lunch stuck in my throat and tears began to spill.  It all felt so tragic.  This man had obviously lost hope and purpose.  We were even more shocked to discover that the police station was directly across the street from the restaurant.  It was as if this man wanted to be arrested.  My heart broke for him.  What was his story?  Had a tragic loss left him without hope?  Had an endless sea of sunless days left him with no purpose because all that he knew held no value?

David and I prayed for the man as soon as we reached the truck.  We left Inuvik with somber hearts.  The misty rain matched our moods.  

This man's story certainly isn't confined to Inuvik... hundreds who have lost hope roam the streets of Houston.  What strikes me is the remarkable difference between this occurrence in Inuvik versus Fort McPherson and Tesiigehtchic.  Questions abound... have the First Nation people in these two towns who have stayed true to their culture been able to avoid the pitfalls of addiction?  What is it about their lifestyle that gives them strength against alcohol?  What is the need for hope and purpose in a human soul and why do some of us lose it so tragically?  As rain continued through the evening, David and I discussed these deep topics.  

The following day, we made our first visit to the tiny town of Tesiigehtchic.  The town is accessible by the ferry that crosses two rivers, the Mackensie and Arctic Red River.  The ferry landing is quite unique, traveling in a triangular pattern from the southern side of the Dempster, across the mouth of Arctic Red River to Tesiigehtchic, then on to the north side of the Dempster Highway.  If nobody on the ferry needs to go to Tsiigehtchick, the ferry simply moves across the Mackensie.

Tesiigehtchic rests on a peninsula between the Mackensie and Arctic Red Rivers

Tesiigehtchic boasts a population of about 190, mostly native Gwich’in.  The settlement was only a camp until 1868 when the Catholics began a mission settlement.  The original church, built in 1921, stands as a landmark for the area.  

Tesiigehchic church

Tesiigehtchic cemetery

Almost the entire community lives off the land.  Occasionally you will find folks drying fish along the banks of the Mackensie.  As we boarded the ferry, we were able to watch a local fisherman pull a dozen or more salmon from a gill net as his wife and daughter watched.  The scene seemed full of purpose and hope.

Tesiigehtchic residents fishing with opportunists in background

Tonight, I ask you to pray for the man in Inuvik... that he finds the purpose, hope, and grace that he so desperately needs.  While he is only one man in one small town and thousands, if not millions of others feel as he does, tonight let us pray for him.  Perhaps if we build on these prayers, one day we will encompass all who need them.  Thank you.

"Without God, life has no purpose, and without purpose, life has no meaning.  Without meaning, life has no significance or hope."  Rick Warren