Raindrops Keep Falling on My Head

Rumor has it that Denali has a rather large mountain at its center.  We have yet to be persuaded.  The entire state seems to be engulfed in rain clouds, with barely a mountain in sight.

After leaving Fairbanks, we drove with high hopes to Denali.  Wildlife should be abundant there.  It was the evening before our 34^th wedding anniversary. 

With each passing mile, however, clouds began to darken the skies and seemed intent on hovering over Denali.  When we reached the park, we discovered that all the campgrounds were full.  Folks taking bus tours complained that the windows were so filthy from the rain and puddle spray that they could hardly see any wildlife that the driver spied.  The crowds and misty rain led us to reevaluate, particularly when the weather forecasts predicted more of the same for days to come. 

We found a campground (no more than a parking lot) about thirty miles out of Denali that had space available.  We camped the night and decided to go up the Denali Highway (Hwy. 8) and travel on to Valdez.  We would make a return trip to Denali after touring the Kenai Peninsula, in hopes that the crowds would wane.

We awoke to rain, which worsened as the day progressed.  We spied a few animals… a moose peaking through the brush and two caribou.  Everyone else seemed hunkered down, waiting for better weather.

We crossed Maclaren Summit in poor visibility and warmed up at Maclaren Lodge with a hot breakfast and good coffee.  We asked our server if she knew the forecast.  She peered out the window and said rather dryly, “It looks like rain.”

We stopped at a roadside pullout to view the Maclaren Glacier.  The wind blew off the glacier so cold that we bundled in another layer of clothes.  By the time we hit Gajona Junction, we felt exhausted.  We opted for a cabin and hot showers as an anniversary gift and determined to drive to the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Refuge, hoping for better weather.      

Rain, however, continues to fall everywhere we go.  Many Alaskans have told us that this is the wettest July in over ten years.  Kodiak Loop to Dawson City and Chicken has washed out.  In fact, several campers were stranded until road crews could build a catwalk to escort them to dry ground.  The road has since washed out again.  At this time, we’re not sure if we will make it to Dawson City.

A little rain won’t get us down, however… in all our years of camping, we have only bailed out once for rain.  I’m certain sons Ben and Dave remember well that experience! 

We have been out of internet access for nearly a week, so this is posting late.  We’ll catch up over the next few days.  Until then, we’re wearing rain gear and keeping an eye out for those reported mountains!